ChrisLBren

Looking sweet

I'm using Chuck's deadeyes from Syren and a photo etch set for the chainplates from Expo.  The channels are ready - and Ive triple laminated boxwood for the knees for the channels - ready to be cut out.  Im hoping to assemble next week after vacation.  

Im a huge fan of your build - have to agree with Peter though.  Not sure if you would even need lighting if you cut some frames on one side for viewing the interior.  

Actually I did paint some resin sculptures and the ships wheel to resemble boxwood to be totally honest !

The deck beams are Swiss pear - nothing is painted on the model - only used Fiebings Black Leather Dye for the black areas. Hope that helps

Thanks guys - Ive attached a photo of workshop B - (which will eventually be workshop A when its remodeled next year).  For now I'm using this space to saw and sand the remaining parts (which aren't many) on Confederacy - to spare the office of sawdust.  My Jim Saw is still safely packed away - waiting for the next project and a proper workbench ! 

And I have finally settled on the next project.  After going back and forth between Le Commerce (built as LOrient), the 74 Gun Ship and countless others - I have settled on Le Gros Ventre - built in 1/36 scale.  I am ordering the enlarged plans.  

The larger scale for a fully framed build is more approachable and not too big - the hull will be approximately 45 inches.  I could also potentially rig her - I have the space.  I also feel metal work (which I am a complete novice) and sculptures will be a bit easier to realize at this scale.  (not too mention as I age it will be easier on my eyes - LOL).  

Stay tuned for more pics as I wrap up Confederacy.  

At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one).  After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year.  We have more pressing priorities with the house.  

So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office.  I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up.   Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed

I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear.  So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.  

Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.

Congrats Danny !!!! What an accomplishment.

Hey Mike,

Its just like double planking a hull - but in this case you lay your first layer of wales @ 1mm.  Its so much easier to line things up and get a proper run.  Then with the second layer you can use anchor stock planking or whatever joints you wish to simulate.  Dye or paint your wales then proceed with your single planking (no need to mask !) on the rest of the hull and the wale line stays neat and tidy.  Or in your case continue finish planking your hull to the keel.  You then can dye all the way to the waterline (dont worry about masking since you are coppering and you are good to go!)  You can be sloppy here since your copper tiles will be the waterline.  

As far as your approach on staining and dyeing - its going to be tricky.  Both have a habit of running where you don't want it post installation of your planks. You can stain/dye the planks off the model but then you will always deal with possible glue spots/runs later or gaps between the planks you will need to fill. Thats why painting those areas or actually using wood the color you want to represent is so much more effective.  

By laminating the wales you can get the run perfect - and not worry about using jigs to bend for the curve - nor do you worry about butt joints on the top of the wale.  With this method you lay the perfect foundation - and its actually easier and less time consuming !  

Dude this is why I told you to laminate the Wales (smile)

Thanks for the feedback everyone - I had a contractor visit today and he gave me some ideas.  I think Im going to wall off both the area of the furnaces and the water heaters/storage area on the other side and just use the middle as my workshop which is actually large enough.  Im going to run some more boxes along the walls for power that will  then be dry walled and install lighting in the ceiling along with a box for a dust retrieval system.  It will cut down my dry wall cost and  maximize the useable space and seal everything else off.  

Oh and I should add i will be milling pre dimensioned (for the most part) lumber from Crown Timberyard for exact sizes with a Jim Brynes thickness sander, and the rest of his tools to scratch build along with a Preac saw and Delta Scroll Saw. No painting (other than acrylics) and Tung Oil Finish.

Actually Ive got a ton of wall space down there - I just want to have a safe environment to work in good lighting, benches for my tools, a desk to work on, and dust collection Is the priority so I can start modeling again.

Good question - I've got a contractor visiting to give me an estimate. I'm just wondering can I leave the ceiling as is - for now if I get a dust collection system ? Obviously I've got a lot of expenses right now between the new house and the twins.

Is this what you guys are talking about as far as dust filtration ?

http://jdstools.com/product/air-tech-hp-2/

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the ideas - our basement is does not leak so far (we've had a lot of rain in Chicago) and it stays relatively cool in the summer and warm in the winter.  There is also double paned glass on the windows.  

I think I need about 300 square feet of drywall - the tricky thing is dealing with the pipes and wires that protrude -so Id rather hire a professional - shouldnt be more than 550 dollars or so.  

Dust filtration is a priority for sure.

Hey Group,

Some of you know we just bought a new house with a finished basement (kids playroom with a bathroom and bedroom for our nanny) and a locked door which goes to storage area and partially finished basement for this area of the house.  Our house has a basement 50 percent below grade and the walls nearest the finished heated basement are dry walled (code for our city) - the other walls outer walls are insulated above ground and not finished. Im not sure if I want to breathe it or spread saw dust around here.  Then again Im not an expert.  

Is this a suitable setting for a workshop without drywalling the rest of the basement - Ive attached photos.  I'd do it myself but there are several pipes and fixtures directly mounted on the studs - which will make this tough unless I hire someone (which may be my best choice).  The other option is I mount the work bench in the garage - bring the heavy duty tools up there as I need them for milling and lock them up from the kids (not ideal) - and use a lighter work desk and chair in my office upstairs.  

Your thoughts and advice are appreciated - a bit bummed - my fathers day gifts were two new work benches and a wheeled storage unit for my tools - which is not ideal now.  

Come on Ben - you should have carved it yourself....(smile).  Looks fantastic - wow....

You can work with Fiebings with some advance planning.  It does bleed easily so I would suggest scribing a line and then mask with Tamiya tape between the areas you dont want the dye to bleed into and be careful not to flood it.  Make sense ?  And then I've used danish oil as a top coat.  Check out my Confederacy log to see the results.  

I'd probably just use water based paint next time though - as Gaetan said - its much easier to control.  

Id laminate two layers - it will be much easier even if you are using a bendy wood like swiss pear to get them properly aligned.   Then paint or dye them before proceeding with the rest of your planking - no need to mask.  Thats how I approached it on my Confederacy. 

Hey Gaetan

I just noticed your wales are now black ?  Did you paint, stain or dye them ?

Chris

A ship that big might be my last   - but I do have plenty of room in our new house to display a few models -  I still have Confederacy to finish and a Wappen Von Hamburg hull laying in wait as well...

Hey Group 

I've moved into our new house - I've attached photos of my new workspace (which needs to be set up - I also have a three car garage and a large deck for workspace) and my study where I have a big wall to house a ship model (you can see the profile of the plans of the 118 Commerce de Marseille which would easily fit in this space at 1/48).  Its either this ship or the 74 - funny  aside -  I bought a smaller Weber gas grill this past weekend - the Spirit - and I'm trading up for the Genesis because the wife said it was too small.   So maybe I should go for the 118 built as the 120  L'Orient - since she says go big or go home ! 

Chris

I single planked my Confederacy in 1/16th Swiss Pear - it bends easily and is a all around terrific wood for model ship building.  I may use it exclusively on my next build.  

Boxwood is great too - its all comes down to personal taste (do you want a lighter model or a darker one)