ChrisLBren

Looks like its sold to another member on the forum !  If anything changes I will let you know

Hi Group,

As I use my Taig Mill exclusively, this is another tool that needs a home.  Works great, however for larger scales - 1/36 and above its a bit small for my needs.  Any offers are appreciated via PM

Hi Group,

Selling my first table top modeling saw - the Preac.  It works great, especially for those wanting to get into scratch building/kit bashing.  In fact I built my entire scratch build Chucks Confederacy using it.  Please PM me if interested.  I use my Byrnes saw exclusively, and this one is collecting dust.  It could use a good home.

Hi Group,

Great tool I purchased off another modeler on this site and never set up.  I am buying a Taig Lathe to compliment my Taig Mill and thought I would offer this one up to a collector.  It works great - just needs some clean up.  I am not sure if the second motor works.  These tools do fetch a decent price on ebay so only serious offers please via private chat.  Thanks !

Hey Group 

Any ideas/tips ?  I love my Taig Mill and want to equip it with a DRO.  There are several Chinese kits out there.  Just curious if anyone here has experience with these or installing one on a Taig.  Thanks.

Thanks guys - I can get a nice Taig lathe for my purposes around 700 with the power feed function and same collets the Mill uses.  I also really want to find a good DRO for my Taig Mill.  Thats the one advantage Sherline has over the Taig by offering that option as an install in my opinion.  

Hi Group,

I purchased an Emco Unimat 3 with an extra motor and milling attachment a few years ago from a fellow member and never set it up.  Last year I purchased a Taig Mill and love it - its sturdy and powerful with a long bed.  It was ready right out of the box without any modifications and has been used extensively on my Le Gros Ventre build.

I am considering selling the Unimat on ebay and buying a new metal lathe - not only for ship building but also to turn wooden pens for clients.  I am leaning towards another Taig  However I am curious about the Sherline as I have heard its a terrific lathe.  I am new at wood and metal turning so want one thats a good intro model I can grow with.

Thanks for any opinions here.

Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans.  They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results.  And less sanding !!!

Chris

No dovetails for me on the wing transom.  They're not necessary and posed way too much of a risk when creating that part - and now even riskier now the assembly is complete !

Thanks for the advice on the extensions Mark.

Thanks everyone - I will attempt the hawse extensions next.  Im just trying to wrap my head around the approach and understanding the plans here.  I believe one must plane the blanks to the proper angle first, then cut out the pattern.  The biases are then added once the pieces are in a jig that depicts the tops of the extensions and their positions on the curve.

Good morning Group,

After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...

Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Great advice and gorgeous model !!!!

Hey Group,

I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this.  I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits.  Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ?  

Thanks !

6 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Tung oil will go over a shellac base, so you have burned no bridges.

If you do not wish to wait for pure Tung oil to polymerize naturally

Sutherland Wells offers a variety of already partially polymerized Tung oil - and now they have 4 oz sample sizes that will not break the bank.

https://www.sutherlandwelles.com/original.html

Thanks for the tip Jaager - I just want a full proof finish on a fully framed model other than poly or tung - I may try some darker shellac flakes and or a wax finish to try to achieve the look I want with my pear wood.  Stand by for some more tests.

So far after two coats of 1lb blonde shellac on some scraps Im not happy with it - I think I will mix up to a 2lb cut.  Its almost a "non finish" at this point after buffing in between coats with steel wool.  

I do like the pure tung oil finish better at this point however dont want to give up yet.  I also understand many modelers use a wax finish as an alternative.  I am a fan of more natural finishes than a poly finish.  

Any tips are appreciated as always.

Hi Group,

I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday.  I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use.  Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick.  I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick.  

Any advice is appreciated !

Chris

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

Look forward to it Mic !  Welcome back

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  

Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Thanks Kurt - will check this out and get back

Hey Group,

I am wondering if any of you have a tip for me here.  Recently I had the saw's motor replaced by Jim and it was shipped back to me.  Once I turn the power I noticed a rattling vibration noise where the motor plugs into the rear belt gear of the saw under the guard.  After maybe no more than 10 or 15 seconds if I touch the belt guard its red hot.  Something is causing friction back here obviously.  The belt guard does look properly seated on the unit. 

I have an email into Jim - I know he's trying to take some time off right now.  Any ideas are appreciated - I do not want to operate the saw until I can solve this issue.

Chris

Congrats - gorgeous model !!!!  

Nice work Greg !  I do love this ship and enjoy watching your progress

Chris

Looks great Greg - will be following along