ChrisLBren

If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!

The different options exist if you already own the original plans at 1/72nd that you purchased with the volumes.  So thats the cheapest option - just getting the supplemental ones that show drafted frames.  Or you can buy the entire set enlarged to 1/48 scale.  Hope this helps.

Chris

Hey Ben,

I think 150 is fine above the wales where you will plank - but I would sand at 320, then 400 and finish at 600 grit below the wales for optimum finish.  Sorry to be Mr Miyagi here from Karate Kid (LOL).  Its looking good !!!

Chris

Spectacular

Impressive looking hull Ben !

Gaetan,

The sculptures look wonderful !  I'm also a huge fan of the look of using one wood exclusively for a build.  I had no idea you could realize sculptures of this quality with cherry - goes to show it all has to do with the skill of the artist.  

Chris

Wow - love it Gaetan - what wood are you using?   Im a huge fan of your 74s and you've surpassed them with these carvings.  Well done !!!!

Alll metal fittings need to be primed - then you are good to go with acrylic or enamel paints. Hope this helps,

Chris

Only the forward most head timbers left - and then its on to installing the rail and hopefully some pictures.  The Byrnes disc sander has come in big time for making these rapidly (as my scrap pile grows).  Id advise anyone building her to use a hardwood for these - I'm amazed Chuck was able to pull it off with basswood considering how fragile this structure is.  Trial and error is the only way I've found to make these vs using templates etc... This is by far the most challenging part of this build - Confederacy builders you are warned...LOL 

I own the supplemental plans and books 1 thru 3 of the 74 Gun ship - English versions.  They are available in several languages.  For an example on the plans go to this link.

http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html

I received mine last week - they're great !  I'm studying these intently right now along with book 1 of the 74 Gun ship.  And actually the author makes a very valid case for both of these alternate 74s to Boudriots generic vessel - i think the total difference being about 4 feet in length.  

I lay out his findings in more detail if there is interest,

Chris

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......

Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

Wow - that looks great !  What a stunning figurehead for a gorgeous model.

Chris

Looking good Mark - go with the Pear if you can afford it - much better wood in terms of workability and less grain.  

Chris

Looking good Ben !

Looks great Toni !!!!

 Have you thought about cutting some of the frames on the unplanked sides to create some viewing windows into all of that beautiful work inside the hull that will never be seen again.  A lot of Ancre modelers approach their builds this way - Im a huge fan of it.

Chris

http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/Le%20Gros%20Ventre/indexgb.html

So after another frustrating session with the head timbers - thought of a bright idea - rather than burn through boxwood - Im going to make templates out of basswood and transfer to box.  Lets see if this works....

Back from Thanksgiving and thinking the next move is to instead finish the head rails/head.  I'm going to change my approach on the head timbers this time - rather than the rear one - Im going to start with the forward most one first. That way i can get the angles right and just merely shrink them and then be able to slot them into the correct position.  At least thats the plan now....

Thanks guys !  I've been searching Ebay/Etsy for vintage drawer/cabinet hardwood knobs to mount her on - thinking that would  look sweet along with an ebony stained/dyed display board.  That's the next step - as most of you know there is a slight warp on my hull of about 1/16th inch which I think I can mitigate when I mount her.  Then I can warp up the channels/chain plates, stub masts, anchors and head rails. 

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  

Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!

Happy Thanksgiving !

Chris

Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days.  All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails.  Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....

Looking good Rusty - i use pure tung oil and sand - works great as filler.  Im sure the same technique would work with wipe on poly.

Chris

Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new.  Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. 

Chris

I'm enjoying watching your progress Mike - if this is any help - most museum models from the classic period do not depict hull caulking. I find that a good oil finish will be enough to highlight the lines between the boards - at least on the hull.  For deck planking - a simple number 2 pencil does the trick.

Chris