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usedtosail

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Everything posted by usedtosail

  1. Thanks Ken I had the same problem with the carriage wheels (trucks). I am going to try to build two new steering/ship wheels.
  2. Al - I used some tack cloth on the deck and it got a lot of the dust off. I then used a Q-Tip with some paint thinner which got a little more. Popeye - Furniture polish and a stiff brush sound like a good solution too. I don't think we have any in the house anymore but I will pick some up next time I am out. I have also placed an old T-shirt that I opened up over the model now to try to keep more dust out. Thanks for that suggestion. Greg - I think another coat of Wipe On Poly would do the deck some good as it seems to be drying out a bit. Thanks for that suggestion. Here are some final shots of the cannonades. All side tackles are installed and all of the rope coils on the port side. I have about 20 more to add to the starboard side. I am going to attempt to make new wheels, but still reserve the option to fall back on using the supplied metal wheels. They are not too bad but I want to try making my own.
  3. Thanks Al. I like your suggestion of the tack cloth. I do have them and use them before finishing but had not thought of them for cleaning up. I'll let you all know how it worked.
  4. Thanks David. I have the same problem being photographed. Thanks too George. My initial attempt was a damp Q-Tip, but I think that just moved the dust around. I may try some type of solvent, but I don't do want to loosen any glue.
  5. Thanks John and David, and the likes. The carronade assembly and rigging are completed. Here are the last four with the first set of side tackles installed. And here are the last eight sets of side tackle blocks and the assembled side tackles. I am glad to be done with these for now. I did change the way I make these about half way through the carronade rigging. When I seize the single blocks, I first tie a simple overhand knot around the block. This is set with a tiny bit of CA, since I do not want this to come undone when pressure is applied. I then use the excess to tie a longer piece of line to the block to use as the tackle line. I was also using CA to hold this knot, but this is a real knot and not a half knot, so to speak, so I switched to using the Dullcote Lacquer to hold these instead of CA. This eliminated making the end of the tackle line stiff at the block, so the resulting tackle lines on the model look better. So, my rule going forward for the rest of the ship rigging is to use lacquer on real knots and only use CA on half knots, if there are any left of those. And here the outer side tackles are installed on the last carronades. I still need to trim the ends off the deck and add rope coils. I have rope coils on almost all of the port side guns, but still need a lot on the starboard side. I still need to make a lot of these, so I will be adding them in batches as I move on to other deck furniture on the spar deck, like the wheels and capstan. BTW - I tried cleaning the deck to get the dust off, but it looks like it didn't do much based on these pictures. You don't see this dust in real life, but I bet with the right light I would. Any suggestions on how to get rid of it?
  6. You copper plating looks really great David. I got over the masking problem by not adding the red stripe.
  7. I agree - those hanging rope coils look very realistic. The carronade rigging looks great too. I am at the same stage on the Conyy - i wish I only had 5 more to do - wait I only have 4 more to do. I will be glad to get past it.
  8. We stayed home this weekend so I had a lot of time to spend working on the carronade rigging. I have been making rope coils for the deck three at a time in the little jig I built when I was rigging the gun deck guns. I had enough to add them to the starboard side guns that are before the waist and a few on the port side. I have to make these very flat to fit under the side tackles on the carronades. I have also assembled more carronades on the deck behind the waist and some of them are in various stages of rigging. Doing these four at a time has been helpful to relieve the monotony factor, but there is still a lot of seizing of blocks that needs to be down for the side tackles. [Edit] - Boy there is a lot of dust on that deck. I am going to have to do something about that.
  9. I just made an edit on post 792 - it turns out the boarding steps are at the aft end of the waist not the fore end, so my carronade tackles would not be in the way of the boarding steps. There is enough bulwarks at the aft end of the waist for those tackle lines to be attached so I don't need to put those into the plank sheer.
  10. Don't despair David, I have the same problems. Just last night I managed to pop off both trail boards at the boarding steps while rigging the carronades. Luckily for me it was a clean break. I also have been touching up the paint along the sides as I go along. I managed to drill one hole for an eye bolt clear through the bulwarks in a moment of not paying attention. But with the black paint it cleaned up nicely. I have also always had trouble drilling through planks as they want to splinter. I haven't decided if a slow drill by hand or a fast drill using the Dremel is the better method - I seem to have trouble with both. Keep up the great work you are doing.
  11. Nice job on the rails David, That is one of the hardest areas I have had to deal with so far, and you pulled it off nicely.
  12. Ah yes, where to put this beast. Luckily both my kids have moved out so I have access to more room in the house, but that is only temporary until we retire and sell the house. I'll ether find a place in the new house or give it away. Maybe my son will have a house of his own by then.
  13. Thanks John. Welcome to the build. Sorry if you had other plans for the day. I hope you do decide to build this model someday as it will keep you busy and is very satisfying. The Niagara looks like a nice model too.
  14. David, I just had a chance to look at your log, and you are doing a fantastic job. I started with the first chapter of the Hunt practicum which did help me out to get started. Keep up the good work, but as JS says use it with a grain of salt.
  15. Thanks Greg. Thanks George. I am trying to break up the repetition by assembling and rigging 4 carronades at a time. That way I have a variety of tasks for each one before repeating on the next group. Sal, your Syren is looking great. Ratlines are another of those repetitive tasks that you can't wait to be finished with. Yours are looking great. Welcome David. Thanks for the compliment. Do you have any pictures of your build? I would love to see them. Are you following the kit or making changes/additions as you go?
  16. I have used thin CA to fix a few spots on mine. I have not had widespread problems with tiles not sticking, though, usually they stick very well. I do prime the wood under the tiles and I don't cut off individual tiles, which are hard to remove from the backing. On a strip of copper tape, I cut through the copper for each tile but not through the backing, then I can remove just the copper pieces from the strip of backing more easily, leaving the copper tiles nice and flat.
  17. Thanks Tim and Al, and for the likes. I finished assembling and rigging the four carronades on the fore part of the spar deck, before the waist. I first just put one set of side tackles on to make sure I would have enough room for two on each side without it looking too crowded. I glued these tackle lines to the deck and trimmed them, to get them out of the way. You can see that for the two carronades right next to the open waist, I had to add the eyebolts into the planksheer since there is no bulwark there. Now the side tackles wouldn't be there most of the time, but in hindsight I probably should have moved that gun port a bit forward so I had more bulwark on that side. Oh well, can't change it now. I then added the outer sets of side tackles. I was able to fit them all in, so I am pleased with the result. I have glued these second tackle lines to the deck but have not trimmed them yet. I also still have to add the rope coils, so I started the production line for those. 20 carronades, four side tackles each, four rope coils each = a butt load of work left to do . Here is the view from outside the hull. I still have some paint touch up to do on the carronade barrels, inside and outside the hull.
  18. Sorry for the long time between updates, but I have been busy with work and school vacation last week. I have started assembling and rigging the spar deck guns. I am starting with the two long guns and four carronades at the bow, to see how these will look with all the rigging before continuing on with the guns after the waist. I assembled and rigged the two long guns first, since these were very similar to the guns on the gun deck. I still have to tighten up the side tackles and secure the ends to the deck. I then drilled holes through the carronade sleds and bases, into the deck, and secured a piece of wire to hold them in place. I then assembled one carronade, first by seizing a ring bolt to the end of a piece of line for the breeching rope, threading that line through the ring bolts on the sled and the ring on the barrel, then seizing another ring bolt to the other end. I then glued a brass screw in the hole I drilled into the casabel, and glued the head of the screw and the barrel trunnions to the sled. I finished it off by gluing small strips of black paper over the trunnions. Here it is placed on deck. I am in the process of making the four tackles needed to rig it. I have started to assemble the second carronade and the production line of stropping hooks to blocks for the tackles. Here are all the gun carriages on deck ready to be assembled and rigged.
  19. Thanks Gerty, welcome to the build. Everything is now painted and I have started the assembly of the guns. For the cannonade bases, I first installed the brackets that will hold them to the gun port sills. I made up a little jig to help me get them all the same distance from the front of the bases. I could have made it more elaborate by adding guide pieces to the sides of the brackets but this worked pretty well as is. I decided to add a small block of wood in the slots of the bases, so that I could put a wire pin through the sled, base, and into the deck, to hold the whole assembly in place. I also made a replica of the area around the spar deck gun ports to help in the assembly and rigging, like I did for the gun deck guns. Assembly of the long guns and cannonades is next up.
  20. Ken, I use the pre-stain all the time with basswood. It does help even out the color. I have not used it under the copper tape though. For that I use an acrylic primer or thinned Gesso and I think it helps the copper plates stick better than to bare wood.
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