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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. popeye2sea
    Are you sure about USS Bainbridge? I didn't think there was a Fletcher named that. There was a Clemson class destroyer named Bainbridge, but she was a four piper. Regards,
  2. popeye2sea
    I think it would be safe to include it for SR. The steeve of the bowsprit actually got lower over time so that the area for the jib sails got larger. The spritsail was gradually superceded by the jibs. For most vessels that carried spritsails the sail probably took on water. Regards,
  3. popeye2sea
    It helps to look at the rigging plan as an entire system. If you look at the point where any stay is attached its pull is directly opposed by another line or lines. Regards,
  4. popeye2sea
    Oh, I don't mind being corrected. As you said, being on these forums is a great learning experience. I learn something new almost every day. Laissez le bon temps rouler, indeed!! Regards,
  5. popeye2sea
    I stand corrected. Regards,
  6. popeye2sea
    Change it to a pair of hearts or deadeyes and you have another appropriate solution. Regards,
  7. popeye2sea
    Well I guess if you are planning to reference my build for rigging details I better get cracking on it. 😲 Regards,
  8. popeye2sea
    I suppose Manor House would be a close approximation. Regards,
  9. popeye2sea
    I like the look of your tack fairlead. Looks like a perfectly reasonable holdover from an older style. Regards,
  10. popeye2sea
    Are all of those buildings in one village? That's quite a bit of history there. Regards,
  11. popeye2sea
    I would reconsider removing the fairlead holes for the tacks. In fact you may have to add a second. The tacks pass through these holes and belay on the opposite side. A block on the fore edge of the stem will not work. Regards,
  12. popeye2sea
    Just adding two or three things????? 😲 It will look fantastic when completed. Looking forward to watching the changes. Regards,
  13. popeye2sea
    All the ships I served in had the deck painted haze grey with a wide portion in the center of nonskid. This was deck grey(a darker grey) with sand added. It was always a bear to remove for repainting. You had to use a needle gun. On the main deck abreast the superstructure you ended up with about 6 inches of haze grey on either side of the deck grey nonskid. Regards,
  14. popeye2sea
    Your interpretation of this image got me intrigued so I loaded it into photoshop and zoomed in to the details. I agree with your interpretation except for the dolphins/fish. They both appear to be disappearing/diving behind the gable roof of the quarter gallery. Neither has a head visible. On the left dolphin all you can see is the feathery pectoral fin. What you took for the mouth of the right dolphin looks to me like the end of the garland. The garland that the pixies are holding is a continuation from the base of the crown. Regards,
  15. popeye2sea
    It seems that the people who make these plans have very little clew😉 about how a ship rig works. They see a line that passes down the front of the sail and figure that it must attach to something that happens to be in the same area in the back. Of course, not knowing any better they do not even think about bunt lines or leech lines. I wonder if those lines are anywhere in your rigging plan, Mike. Regards,
  16. popeye2sea
    Clew lines rig on the back side of the sail only. The standing end is timber hitched to the yard a little outboard of the block. I then runs down to the clew garnet block at the lower corner of the sail and and back up to the clew block on the yard. The hauling end is then often rove through another leading block closer to the mast before being led down to the deck and belayed. Think about how that line would work if it was rigged as per the diagram. It would bind on the sail at the clew garnet block and get fouled. Bunt lines, leech lines, and bowlines are rigged in front of the sail. Regards,
  17. popeye2sea
    I think what you are experiencing is very common to scale modelling. Aesthetically, the proper size rope can appear too heavy for the model. Although you use the exact right size for the rigging the overall look of the rig will appear to be overpowering. It is often said to err on the small side if you have to make a choice. If you look at the rigging of a real ship it appears to be almost delicate with plenty of space between each element. On the model everything is compressed together and that delicate feeling can be lost. Regards,
  18. popeye2sea
    Leave the ends stoppered or lashed to the eyebolts. The tackles would only be rigged if needed in an emergency. Regards,
  19. popeye2sea
    To operate davits like these you would hook the falls to the boats and hoist them up so that they are suspended. You then rotate the davits in towards each other. One davit leading the other so that one end of the boat is able to pass between the davits followed by the other end as the second davit is rotated. Once the boat has passed between the davits you can square them up again with the boat hanging parallel to the hull above the water. Lower away and unhook the falls when the boat swims. The chain attached to the rudder is there for steering emergencies. In the event that the steering gear is disabled you can rig tackles to the end of the chains and run them inboard in order to operate the rudder. Regards,
  20. popeye2sea
    What is happening here is that the boats are being stored on skids so that the falls that would be used to hoist them out are temporarily hooked onto the davits. The lower blocks normally have a hook on the block that hooks into a ring on the boat for lowering into the water. You can rig the falls either up and down on the davits or diagonally across to the opposite davit. Either way they are not actually doing anything with respect to the boats when they are on the boat skids. The hauling end of the falls sometimes belay to a cleat on the davit. That extra bit that appears to go to the boat (labelled B?) in the first photo is totally wrong and should not be rigged. What would actually be holding the boats down to the skid are two ropes called gripes, which would be attached to the skids on either side of the boat and pass over the boat holding it firmly down. Regards,
  21. popeye2sea
    Incorrect. The camber of a deck is its athwartships arching. The pitch or sheer of a deck is its slope fore and aft. The Mirriam Webster definition of camber is: To curve upward in the middle. To arch slightly. A slight convexity, arching, or curvature (as of a beam ,deck, or road) The main point in common with all the references I have seen is that camber is a description of arching upwards in the middle of something. Comes from the old French chambre and Latin camur meaning bent, crooked, or arched. Regards,
  22. popeye2sea
    Will there be a balcony in front to get access to the pie cooling rack? Regards,
  23. popeye2sea
    I agree with John. But, if you do go with barrels/casks you almost can't go wrong choosing a size. Casks came in a multitude of sizes and shapes. Regards,
  24. popeye2sea
    Coamings look great! Regards,
  25. popeye2sea
    Single tyes would be more appropriate for your upper yards. I would think that a notch in the center of the timber batten truss would allow room for the tye sling. You could either notch the side nearest the yard so that the sling would appear to pass through the batten or notch the side nearest the mast. Passing the sling closest to the yard would negate the possibility of friction against the mast when hoisting the yard. Hope that makes sense. Regards,

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