popeye2sea

That was the job of the gunner and his mates.

Regards,

Henry

Marines were definitely in a separate administrative and operational organization. They only received orders and disciplinary actions from the Marine officers. However the Marine officers answered to the Captain of the ship who was in ultimate charge of everything that went on in his ship. In the Royal Navy Marines could also be called upon to man the cannons during battle.

Regards,

Henry

That was pretty much it. Standing guard or drilling. Marines did not stand watches like the sailors. Maintaining their uniforms and weapons also occupied some of their time.  Marines uniforms had to look in top condition all the time. Polishing brass and whitening leathers takes a good amount of time.  Trust me, I have to do it frequently. And I use modern cleaners and whiteners.

My profile pic is me in 1812 US Marine uniform.

Regards,

Henry

20th anniversary

My wife and I spent 3 days in Edinburgh and then rented a car for a grand tour of the highlands. Culross, Stirling, Loch Lomond, Loch Fyne, Inverary, Kilmartin Glen, Fort William, Glen Finnan, Isle of Skye, Inverness, Culloden, Loch Ness, Aberdeen. Then back to Edinburgh on our anniversary. Returned home yesterday.

Regards,

Sorry I have not had a chance to reply over the last two weeks. I was on vacation in Scotland.

I agree with Marc and Ian the topmast trestle and cross trees are too long and should be trimmed back. Also the rear hole should fit closely around the topmast head while the forward hole should admit the square lower section of the topgallant mast.  For those reasons I will probably fabricate my own cross trees.

Also I have never been a fan of those round sections of the mast that are supposed to represent the cheeks and hounds.  I think those are another Hellerism.

Regards,

Henry

I don't agree.  If you rig Cutty Sark the way it is supposed to be, with it's combination of chain, wire, and rope rigging, and add all the missing fittings for various whip tackles that are not depicted in the plan, it is a far more complex rig than Constitution.

Regards,

Henry

Indeed!

Well spoke.

Henry

Welcome.  Looking forward to your added research and knowledge. And the build looks great too!

Regards,

Henry

You may not need that.  Add a piece of metal rod into the lower yards when assembled to add some weight and the halyard and lifts will hold them just fine.  Replace the upper yards with wood to give them some extra heft as well. If your setting sails then the sheets and clews will hold the upper yards against the upward pull of the halyards. You may have to resort to pins if you are not rigging sails.

Regards,

Henry

There are parrels fitted to all the yards.  They hold the yards in against the mast. So if you are going to fit the yards as you proceed up the masts, then yes you will need to fit the parrels.  I would suggest that you put all of the fittings and rigging on the yards before you put the yards on the ship.  You don't necessarily need to belay all the rigging right away but you should at least attach everything to the spars. I would even go so far as to attach braces and other rigging to each stay before they are fitted to each mast. I would wait to brace all the yards around until all the yards are on the ship so that they can be aligned properly.  Brace round first, then belay.  You will run into problems if you belay all the other rigging for the sails and THEN brace the yards. Some of the other lines will be pulled too taut.

The curved piece at the top of the mast is called the cap and the large holes in it will take the tye, which is the rope that hauls up and holds up the lower yards. It is one long piece of rope whose ends pass over the cap, down through those holes, and are hitched to the yard just inside the quarter cleats. The center of the tye passes through the upper hole of a ramshead block, which is a large triple sheave block that hangs aft of the mast and the halyard is rove through this and communicates with the knight on the deck. Once this is set up it should need no further adjustment.

Regards,

Henry

No, not asking for trouble. In fact, having the yards braced in on a port tack is how I will be setting mine. Maybe not quite close hauled, but perhaps a point or so off the wind.

(Nautical terms liberally placed) translation: Braced-in - having hauled in on the yard braces to swing the yards oblique to the mast.

                                                                       Port tack - sailing so that the wind is on the port side forward, resulting in the port side tack line being hauled down taut.

                                                                       Close-hauled  - sailing with the yards fully braced in, as close to the wind as possible.

                                                                       One point free or one point off  - Sailing with the wind one point, 11.25 degrees, off of close hauled.  The compass rose has 360 degrees and is divided into 32 points, North, N by NE,                                                                                                                                NNE, etc.  A square rigged ship can only sail as close as 45 deg. up wind.  Sailing a point free allows the leeway to come up a bit closer to the wind                                                                                                                                  if the need arise, as in an emergency or a battle.

                                           So endeth the lesson

Setting the sails braced round in this manner will only mean that you have to pay attention to how tight you make some lines like the lee bow lines on the sails.  Otherwise, have at it.  I think it will look great.

Regards,

Henry

Crossing the yards is nautical speak for hoisting the yards aloft into their positions lying "across" the masts. In other words, suspended by their halyards, jeers, slings and lifts.

Regards,

Henry

I believe you would call those tween decks because they are partial decks between the other full decks.  Although, usually tween decks would run side to side and not longitudinally along one side.

Regards,

Henry

The orlop, by definition, is the lowest deck of a ship. Therefore it lies just above the hold. The hold is where the storage casks would be found. The carpenter, sail maker, cooper, and boatswain, may have supplies and work areas on the orlop deck.

Regards,

Henry

Here is my interpretation of the futtock shroud rigging.

Don't follow Heller.  It would be better to fit a metal strop to the lower deadeye and either hook or seize the futtock shroud to it. Anderson mentions that this was the rule by 1620 or so.  Next I would fit a futtock stave. It should extend across all of the shrouds and be seized to each. The futtock shrouds should pass around the futtock stave before being seized to the shroud below the staff. Last, although Anderson does mention in his very last sentence regarding upper catharpins, that the French seem to have dispensed with them up to about 1700, I would consider fitting them because it will help to hold the shrouds in against the pull of the futtock shrouds. The catharpins should be fitted before the futtock shrouds and be seized to the futtock stave.

I intend to fit them on my build.  Sort of along the same principle as adding the bobstay on the bowsprit. It is just going to help get the rigging more shipshape and Bristol fashion.

Regards,

Henry

I would fit the tops with all their gear pre assembled, and the remaining rigging that goes around the mast heads. Once the lower masts are relatively complete and secure, then I would move on to the sprit yards and the topmasts.

You could consider crossing the main yard.  The reasoning here is that it will become increasingly difficult to get rigging in close to the masts as you go along.  Most of the rigging belays from the centerline outwards as you move up the masts. But, everyone has their own order of doing the rigging.

Regards,

Henry

It is unanimous then.  I fully concur with Michael and Marc.

Bill, now that I look at your last photo I see that Michael has a good point.  I was going to tell you that the pendants were rigged before the shrouds went over the mast head. You can simply seize the upper block of the burton tackles to the thimbles on your pendants, which are already hanging inside the shrouds.

Regards,

Henry

The burton tackles look great. I hate to bear bad news, but they should come down inside the shrouds.

Regards,

Henry

I prefer the classic PEMDAS order of operations:

Paint Each Module Drink A Scotch🤣

Bill,

Yes, the hooks on the blocks for the mast tackles (also called burton tackles) attach to the eyebolts in the channels, but I do not recall where the fall belays.  You could hitch it around the nearest shroud above the deadeyes.

Regards,

Henry

Mad For Glory, A Heart of Darkness in the War of 1812, by Robert Booth.

The fascinating true story of a US Naval Captain, Captain David Porter, who went rogue with his warship, USS Essex and  terrorized the Pacific Ocean. The longest, strangest naval adventure in American History.

Regards,

Henry

3 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Bill,

Ref. photos in post #955..... Is there a reason you used "tarred" line instead of normal running rigging line?  I would think tarred line would gum up the sheaves in the blocks if used on a real ship.   I cannot find any information so far where tarred line was run through blocks.  Maybe someone can shed some light on this based on sources contemporary to the 17th through 19th centuries.

Allan

 

 

Allan,

I think in this case the use of tarred line is appropriate.  These are crows feet on a back stay and do not 'run' at all.

Regards,

Henry

That's really nice work.  I'm going to have to tinker with mine now.

Regards,

Henry