Blue Ensign

Post 78 Cutters 18’ and 22’ These are the new resin hulled version with Pearwood fittings. Nicely formed with Lapstrake planking, detailed framing, mast steps, and rowlocks set-up for single banked rowing. The colour scheme needs to be decided first, something that co-ordinates with the main ship scheme. For the outer hull colour I used Vallejo White/grey, and for the Gunwales Black/grey. I think this gives a more scale effect. For the inner hull I used a combination of oche brown shade mixtures until I got a look I liked. I then applied a wash of Dark Brown. 4297a This picked up the inner Lapstrake planking. I applied the same scheme to both cutters. The Pearwood fittings I left bright just treated with w-o-p. 22’ Cutter Inserting the Pearwood fittings, takes a little care, they are quite delicate, particularly the stern sheets. They are accurately cut to fit around the hull ribs but light pressure only should be used to fit into place. I used spots of cyano. 4308a One thing I did note ; there does not seem to be a laser cut thwart for the aftermost position. A minor issue as one is easily cut from the laser fret. Adding detail Adding the mast clamps to the thwarts is a small improvement, easily done using black card. 4301a Using a stick helps align the thwart with the mast step. 4309a I also like to add lifting rings to the keelson. 4317a At this scale it is feasible to add the rudder hanging ironware to the Cutter stern. This comprises a long pintle, and Gudgeon ring. Fiddly, but it’s stuff I like to do. 4316a This particular arrangement is designed for quick attachment/ removal of the rudder. The set-up for rowing is three pairs of offset rowlocks which would suggest single banked rowing positions. The oar lengths would suggest double banked rowing, so with this arrangement there would presumably be one rower per thwart, alternating port and starboard. I’m not too keen on the provided oars for the 22’ cutter, the blade looks too short and paddle like for my taste. 4305a The oar style supplied with Indy looks more the shape to my eye and fortunately I had some spares I could utilise. Boat cradles are supplied (for the 18’ cutter) but will fit the 22’ cutter. If the larger cutter is to be stored on deck, the cradles need raising a little to allow the boat keel to clear the coamings. I added 2x2mm Pearwood strip to the bottom of the cradles. 4324a I always find fitting cradles a tricky exercise, getting them central to the deck, square, and correctly spaced to fit the hull. It would be easier to glue the hull to the cradles before fitting, but I prefer not to do that. 4325a 4327a 4328a Nice to see that my scale figure sits perfectly in the sternsheets. 4331a 4332a Some paintwork tidying is still required, but I’ll attend to that in conjunction with the 18’ Cutter B.E. 18/05/2025

Post 77 Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting. 4266a Each one was trial fitted to check the drop before pinning to the hull. 4265a A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is. Topmast and T’gallant Backstays I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays. Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place. 4272a I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line. 4271a As with the shrouds I has to re-make the upper chain link to bring the lower link to the correct level. These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether. An exercise in frustration. 4273a 4274a 4275a 4277a I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side. Cheers,🍷 B.E. 12/05/2025

Post 76 Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two 004 As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above. 4226a I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes. Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening. The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned. The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top. I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish. My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom. 4237a I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of The ffm BY David Antscherl. 4238a In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds. The jig allows the size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal. 4242a Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky. 0017 This test link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate. 4253a The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link. With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds. I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging. 4249a Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt. I think I can now proceed. B.E. 10/05/2025

Sound advice Chris, the only thing ca is of use for in rigging is forming needle points on lines to assist feeding thro' sheave holes, and sealing the cut ends of polyester line. Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Greg, My thought is to rig her without yards, and with the Topmasts in the lowered position. I will have to make the Topmasts from square stock with the heel sheaves in place. Alternatively I could store the Topmasts on the Gallows. This is all about space saving. I do prefer to build up the mast sections on the model rather than glue all the sections together before fitting, and I tend to glue as little as possible on my models including the masts. Depending on the mast fit I sometimes apply the merest spot of pva, sufficient to hold the mast square, but with the bond easily broken with a twist. I’m always thinking I may want to remove this one day. Regards, B.E.

Post 75 Masts (Part 2) Mast Hoops There are twelve iron hoops supporting the Main mast, alternating between under and over the Front Fish. The Foremast has ten hoops but they don’t uniformly alternate, six sit above the front fish and four beneath. There are no wooldings involved with the Harpy build. The kit provides black card for the purpose of Hoop making and a scale breadth of 1.5mm is indicated. This agrees with the sizes given by Steel. Breadth – 4” - 4½” breadth, ½” - ⅝” thick. Whilst I often use slices of heat shrink tubing for hoops I will be using the card option which will better conform to the profile around cheeks and Fish. 4203a I fit the hoops that fit beneath the Fish first, here on the Fore mast. 4208a I use a template to mark the hoop positions down the mast. 4207a Fitting the hoops is a bit fiddly, care has to be taken to remove any glue spread onto the mast. 4213a 4214a 4215a 4216a I have left the hoops black as a contrast but in reality they would probably have been painted along with the masts by the early 19thcentury. Bolsters These are provided as short sections of 2x2mm square stock. In my view they are a tad on the short side as a means of protecting the shrouds, particularly if the shrouds are to be properly served. 4221a I replaced the kit parts with quarter rounded 2x2.5mm stuff. This also overhangs the trestletrees by a fraction as it should. I’m leaving the masts for a while as my supplies of Resin deadeyes have arrived and I’m keen to resolve the looming problem of over-long links, which has been on my mind since Post 73. B.E. 08/05/2025

The innovation of Resin and 3d printing have been a game changer in ship modelling, a much higher level of accuracy and realism in fittings, particularly at smaller scales. Chris and Chuck have been prime leaders in this field and I'm a confirmed fan of their work. B.E.

A pleasant surprise. My supply of resin deadeyes and blocks arrived today, a mere seven days from order to door. Thanks Chuck, excellent service. 0012 Swiss Pear Resin versions from Chuck’s Syren range. I am very pleased with these, the detail is way beyond the usual kit blocks. Note the shaping of the ‘eyes’ in the deadeyes, and the well formed sheaves and strop grooves in the blocks. 0014 3mm rigging hooks I also like these black plastic hooks, saves all that blackening of brass versions. I note that Chuck is contemplating making a 3/16” scale version of Resin Belay pins that should suit a 1:64 scale model. I do hope this comes to pass, they would be a nicer option than the rather two-dimensional brass etch versions. Back to the masts. B.E. 07/05/2025

Well done Mark, she looks very impressive. a wonderful display model. B.E.

Fore and Main Masts. (Part 1) I am working these as per the kit dimensions using 8mm Ramin dowel. The trickiest part is forming the 5mm square mastheads from dowel. I do this by marking the square area on the dowel top, lining along for the required length, and filing using 120 grade sandpaper glued to a broad stick. I gauge by eye with constant measurement and square checks. 4138a I initially pare down to around 5.5mm before checking with the cross trees. It is then a case of reduction by degrees whilst maintaining the square profile. 4142a The sides of the stick are then sanded flat to accommodate the Cheeks. 4143a I use Tamiya tape to define the area to take the cheeks, again careful use of a broad sanding stick is all that is required with constant checking to ensure squareness. 4161a The masts were coated with w-o-p, and I painted the Pearwood cheeks to better tone with the Ramin Masts. I then use a water based oche tinted wood dye to even out the colour tone. The laser cut Trestle trees in Pearwood slot together cleanly and firmly. 4164a I very much like the Mast tops, beautifully cut and detailed, a joy to work with. Regardless of mast rake the tops should be level to the waterline. 4176a 4179a 4183a 4188a It seems to take me ages to ensure the Mast tops sit square and level, the final adjustments being made after gluing but before it sets. 4191a Once the mast tops are firmly fixed, the Bibs and Front fish are added. B.E. 06/05/2025

Post 73 Strops, chains, and plates. I prefer to chemically blacken ‘ironwork’ rather than paint it, as I think it gives a subtle and more realistic representation. 4105a It is more time consuming, and there are several parts that make up the strops and chain plate combinations. 4112a I test the assembled shroud combinations along the Channels to gauge where they fall on the Wale. The positions shown on the plan accord with those on the Adm plan. 4111a I may be missing something but I seem to have a potential problem; the lower link falls awkwardly right on the top edge of the wale, and the preventer plate sits too low on the wale. 004 Compared to the Plan the lower chain (pe20) seems over-long which throws the Preventer plate (pe21) too low. I have come across this issue on previous models where the answer is to adjust the upper chain link to bring the lower link and preventer plate to their correct placing, but a smaller lower link would be preferable. This does however involve a fair bit of faffing around to get the correct size. I am not in a position to fit the deadeyes at this stage as I decided to invest in resin versions in Swiss Pear colour, the latest innovation from Chuck’s Syren company. The basic kit blocks and Deadeyes are ok but lack the detail of what is now available. They also need sorting to weed out those with mis-cut holes etc; I’ve not picked up any indication of the need for adjustment, so I’m not sure what’s going on here, the wale is in the correct position as are the channels. B.E. 02/05/2025

Post 72 Channels and Timberheads. These are the last main features to add to the hull exterior. 4084a 4085a Channels and Timberheads slot seamlessly into place. Side steps. 4102a Annoying but necessary little beggars these, two tiny pieces comprising a tread and support glued together at right angles, five required each side. Fortunately the locations are engraved on the top sides which helps with this exercise. With the use of laser cutters, shape and even a design is included on items that would prove very difficult to produce by hand accurately at this scale. 4079a The Bow bollards (275) referred to in the manual as Gunwale bow timbers sit either side of the Bowsprit. They are a less fancy version of the Knightheads that support the Bowsprit. These need bevelling on their inboard faces to run parallel to the Bowsprit. I have made up some test masts and spars to gauge the overall size were I to detail the lower masts and standing rigging. 4068a These are the full length Masts, Bowsprit, and Driver boom, as per the plans. How they relate to Steel I haven’t checked at this point. 4070a The masts are in Walnut but I prefer Ramin for lower masts. 4090a This is the space profile compared to Sphinx, I think I can accommodate her with lower rigging in place but without the yards. Decision made. B.E. 30/04/2025

Congratulations ECK, 15 weeks from keel to completion, Chris is going to have to up his output to keep pace with your build rate.😉 She looks a fine model, almost tempts me to fully rig her. B.E.

Post 71 Completion of first stage. Five months into this build and time for a long overdue workshop GTU, and some stage photos. 4042a 4041a 4044a 4046a 4048a 4049 4053a 4056a 4061 4057a 4054a I now need to decide where I’m going with this build. I completed my previous two builds ‘Navy Board’ Style with stump masts, but I am leaning towards going a little further with Harpy. My initial thoughts are to rig her with lower masts and standing rigging in place but without yards. 011a I did this with my model of Victory. I quite like this set-up on models and it has the advantage of space saving. With Harpy, extending the build time, and deferring any concerns of what to do next are also a factor, and I fancy doing some rigging again. I will start with a mock-up to gauge the overall space requirements, and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in. A plan of sorts. B.E. 28/04/2025

Nice work on those masts Glenn, not an easy task making a good job of squaring the mastheads from dowel. B.E.