Blue Ensign

....... or not as the case may be, we will see.

Thank you Mark, and Ron, It still rankles Ron, moving onto the 24' Cutter, we'll see how well I can mangle that one.🫤 B.E.

She looks good Christian, and deserves to be finished. Regards, B.E.

Perseverance pays off David, well done👍 B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-seven The 26 ft Launch - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. Altho’ the main work on Indy has been completed, the overall display requires further work. Building the Launch continues my work on the boats. I like the Launch because it offers opportunity to add detail such as the windlass. I have been here before as I made up the 24’ Launch for Sphinx. This didn’t however guard me against breaking the stern post (twice) during the fitting of the transom. 4227 Again, I thought it prudent to add little support pieces to the build board to reduce any flexing during the fairing business. These small boats are delicate and require gentle handling particularly in the early stages. 4232 The fairing went ok. 4235 Regrettably, the stem broke in two places along the planking slot during the testing of the first planking strip, hardly touched it Gov’ner, and the repairs didn’t hold. 4236 I suspect it was a combination of the inherent weakness related to the planking slot, plus possible grain run of the stem. 4239 I did think about replacing the stem element, but removing the frames from the base resulted in what our American friends may describe as FUBAR. Sadly, Indy will be without her Launch, but stuff happens – right. B.E. 07/04/2024

So sorry to read this Kevin, For what it’s worth, hard as it is, I think you are making the right decision. We invest so much in our cocker family members, and the pain we feel when their time comes is very real. I know you will do right by Dobbie. B.E.

Thank you Glenn, I'm going to finish off the Indy boats; doing well so far, I've already snapped the stern post of the Launch twice in fitting the Transom.🫤 After that it's back to Syren, to finish Chuck's wonderful Medway Longboat. Regards, B.E.

Cheers Guys, I will do a set of completion photos before I encase her, but the wooden framed glass case is very heavy compared to my previous acrylic covers, not very convenient for multiple off and ons, and all the associated risks involved. @ Bug - A lot of the deck fittings are removeable including the rope coils, so these are taken off when cleaning. I simply start at the top; firstly cleaning the rigging lines, then the masts and yards, using a soft paintbrush. For the dust on the decks I pick it up with a soft brush and suck the dust with a hand held vacuum (Dyson) I finish off the outside of the hull. Considering she has been uncased for many years she comes up pretty well, takes around 3hours + to do it. 2007a Here she is stripped down for cleaning, built at a time before the availability and quality of fittings we have today she still remains one of my favourites. Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-six My version of Indy is effectively completed now and with some serious moving about of models within my workroom/office, I have found room to house Indy in the prominent position she deserves, and without encroaching on other areas of the house. 4223 She has displaced Norske Love which now has a new position vacated by Alert which also has a new location. e2008a Had I completed the masting on Indy it would be in the order of that of Norske Love which is of a slightly smaller scale of 1:70. e2012a Norske Love has received a well overdue clean, having endured all the dust created during the construction of ‘Indy’. 4022 Not quite ready for the glass cover to be on yet, but at least the issue of ‘where are you going to put that’ is now resolved. As a bonus the lower profile of Indy compared to Norske love will allow me to re-arrange the wall Pictures and perhaps get one of Indy. I have decided to have a further dabble with the boats, and have started assembly of the 26’ Launch, pity not to make them up as they are provided with the kit. B.E. 06/04/2024

Post One Hundred and Sixty-five Thank you, Allan, the kit didn’t include any standards to support the transom, but I note that Alex M has included five in his drawings of the Anson following conversion to a Razee. He also includes an extended central standard to support an Ensign staff tabernacle. I did think about following his example but decided that the double arrangement looked more aesthetically pleasing to my eye. I think the inclusion of such an item is a reasonable assumption to make, and the set up on the Indy kit almost begged the inclusion of the arrangement as I have modelled it. 4206 4207 4217 4211 4212 4205 Onwards, B.E. 04/04/2024

Great progress Jesse, well done.👍 Love the look of your guns and rigging. B.E.

My understanding is that In the days before the driver boom the Ensign was routinely worn on the staff when at sea, as the Mizen lateen yard was not inhibited by its presence. With the introduction of the driver boom the Ensign was worn at the Gaff when at sea, but an Ensign staff was used when in port or at anchor. Many Navy Board style models do not show the fixings but were I intending to fully mast and rig 'Indy' as a bare stick model, I would have fitted the Ensign to the staff. Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-four. Countdown to completion – still counting I am still fretting about the inclusion of fittings for an Ensign staff. The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them. I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but she would certainly have had them. I lean towards a more substantial set-up than a simple block and cap-square fixed to the tafferal, given her origin as a Sixty-four. 2154 2155 This is the set-up on Victory and the double knee fixing between the flag lockers would transfer well to the Indy. A block sits atop the standards, recessed for the staff and is fitted with a cap-square. A corresponding fitting (the step) to take the heel of the staff sits between the standards on the deck. Nothing to be lost by having a play around and using bits of Boxwood, I cobbled together an Ensign support for ‘Indy’. 4183 Fairly straightforward, two standards and a top cut out on the scroll saw, the trickiest part cutting the mortises to fit over the standard tops. 4184 A simple jig aids the assembly. 4204 The completed item, the Cap-square made from a piece of brass fret will be blackened before fitting. 4190 4197 4199 Steel conveniently gives the sizes of Ensign staffs by rate. For a Sixty-four = 38’ x 6¼” ø @ scale 181mm x 2.5mm ø 50 gun = 36’ x 6” ø @ scale 171.5mm x 2.4mm ø 44 gun = 35’ x 5⅝” ø @ scale 166.7mm x 2.2mm ø 4195 4196 There is very little difference at scale, I used 3mm dowel for the staff and will adjust the length to suit my eye. The staff will require a degree of taper and the fitting of a truck. A satisfying days’ work - I’m inclined to keep it. ☺️ B.E. 02/04/2024

Post One Hundred and Sixty-three. Countdown to completion - the final stages. This is the stage where I attend to all those little outstanding things, look through all the laser sheets and ask myself what the hell is that for, should I have fitted it? It is surprising how long it takes to rig the stanchion and Hammock crane lines. 4164 4162 4163 4166 I use Syren 0.45mm ø natural line. I seem to recall from somewhere that tarred line was dispensed with as it tended to mark the hammocks. 4165 4167 I decided to fit the Fo’csle with stanchions; I think they may well have been fitted, and it balances well with the rest of the model. I used additional eyebolts to secure the ends of the lines. I had modified the gunport lanyards for the lower ports to a double arrangement on the Port side, but the starboard side remained to be done. 4152 4168 Even tho’ it is a bit of a pain to do, I couldn’t leave odd sides. Boomkins. These less than attractive booms used to spread the Fore tack invariably cause me trouble. In my build they didn’t easily meet the angle of the cap square that secures them as they cross the Main Rail of the head, and the line was also inhibited by the position of the seats of ease which required a little adjustment. 4159 4160 4174 I also added the capsquares, represented by black card strips. B.E. 01/04/2024

Very impressive brass work Nils, and your problem solving skills are second to none. Nice progress. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-two. Woolding the masts The kit indicates use of 0.5mmø line throughout. According to Steel the wooldings for the Fore and Mainmasts are of 3” circ line, and that for the Mizen 2½” circ. This equates to 0.37mm and 0.31mm scale diameters. I used 0.3mm and 0.4mm cotton line from Modellbau Takelgarn in Germany. Wooldings are generally 12” deep which scales to 4.76mm. The method of applying as shown on the kit plans is the recognised approach to take, and will be familiar to readers of R.C. Anderson’s wordy but excellent book The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600-1720 I wouldn’t be without it. 4132 4133 The line was dyed using Colron Jacobean Dark Oak wood dye which gives a less black effect than commercial black rigging line. The final touch is adding the wooden hoops that contain the woolding. 4140 These are simply made using very thin strips cut from a Manilla folder. 4137 4138 4148 Nearly there! and with great timing the the display case arrived yesterday. B.E. 28/03/2024.

Thankyou Kevin, Bug, and Rusty, your words are much appreciated. @ Bug - That Chris Watton has a lot to answer for, I dread seeing the next irresistible model to emerge from The Forest of Dean, I’m already struggling to find a suitable space for ‘Indy’ Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Jason, enjoy your Pinnace, it's a great little kit. Post One Hundred and Sixty-one. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part four) At this point I couldn’t resist the urge to see how the Pinnace would look onboard ‘Indy’. 4108 4112 Temporarily placed in the suggested position on the skid beams. 4113 4117 The kit provides a set of oars in laser cut Pear. These benefit from a little fettlin’ beyond char removal. The blades should be thinned down toward the outer end, and the shank rounded a little at the bottom third leaving the upper two thirds square to represent the loom. 4121 4123 4127 4128 4106 4109 I think a spot of woolding is up next. B.E. 26/03/2024

Post One Hundred and Sixty. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Three) Getting the correct thwart levels and height is a critical part of assembly. It is important to get the thwarts all square across the boat. 4038 When fitting the thwarts it is advisable not to exert even light pressure on the centres of the thwarts, particularly those with the mast holes in them. The final tricky part is fitting the gunwales. These delicate parts are pre-cut and include the thole pin fittings. 4041 I decided to fit the gunwales as provided, complete with thole pin fittings for eight double banked rowing stations. I know all the arguments about Pinnaces being single banked to accord with historical custom and practice, and that boats of 32’ were 10 oared, and even that traditionally Pinnaces had a centre board running between the thwarts. There are more than a few difficulties involved in making a diversion from the kit to reflect the above, and as with the smaller Pinnace on Sphinx, after long consideration I decided that leaving well alone was the best course. 4044 No matter, it is a very fine boat to display with Indy. Chris has put a lot of thought into the design of these boats, and the fine detail is the best around at this scale. 4055 The wale is next fitted and does require a degree of edge bending to conform to the line as it rounds the bow. 4048 4045 The lower hull has been painted in Ivory to provide a contrast with the ‘bright’ timbers up to the wale. Painting these small boats requires careful masking but the tyranny of the macro w-i-p photos required several goes to improve the lines to a point I found acceptable. 4103 Vallejo blue/grey is used to decorate the top strake and transom, and w-o-p is applied to the bare wood. 4104 The rudder is fitted with the modified quick release arrangement common on these boats. 4097 Making these small boats provides hours of fun and frustration in equal measure. They are absorbing little projects that I enjoy doing despite the frustrations at times. Just the finishing touches to add now. B.E. 25/03/2024

Fabulous set of photo's Daniel, this is one classy build, that holds little fear of the macro lens. B.E.

Thank you Giulio, apart from the Capt. included on the Quarterdeck of the finished model, the others were assembled from various bits of body parts from various sources, completed with modelling clay. The Capt. is a Mantua white metal figure. Some of the figures are too rough to include on a finished model but they serve as scale markers. B.E.

Thanks Nils, I've built six of these boats without any problems when removing the frames, but with this one the planking separated in sections, no doubt due to deficiencies in my gluing. All sorted now. B.E.

As you say Allan it is a kit limitation; the keelson, such as it is, sits below the footwaling. Modification would entail messing with the provided part - a step too far given that little of it will be seen once the thwarts are in place. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- nine. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Two) Freed from its building frame and the centres removed the process of fitting out can begin. I have always been amazed that twisting away the mdf centres leaves the hull intact with little trace of their removal…. But not this time; - the planking partly disassembled, requiring careful re-fitting and use of diluted pva on the inside to stabilise the hull. How this will impact on the build remains to be seen, but it may be necessary to paint the inner bulwarks. 4008 I made a Styrene foam cradle to support the hull whilst attempting to clean up the inside. I used a combination of micro chisels, pen sander, and sheets to remove the glue adhesions and rough surfaces. This is quite a fraught operation and needed careful handling. I take notice of where areas will be covered by the footwaling, fore deck, benches and thwarts, and make pragmatic decisions how far to take the cleaning up in these areas, against risk of further damage. 4007 I wasn’t too keen on the set-up at the stern, so I installed a stern post. I dislike the brass etched rudder facings, supplied with these kits, convenient as they may be. The wooden rudder core was faced with 0.6mm pear and then sanded down to shape. The hanging arrangement will be modified to reflect the true set-up. 4020 Unlike my previous experience of Vanguard boats the Pinnace has Pearwood gratings and footwaling which I like. More convenient and natural looking than the brass etched versions which require painting and sticking with ca. At this stage there are a few additions one can make to the boats to add realism. Lifting ringbolts to the footwaling, and mast steps as shown in the above photo. 4016 I divert from the kit when it comes to fitting the thwart supports, I leave them extended to the stern to support the sternsheet benches. 4017 The benches are provided as a unit including the aftermost thwart. 4025 I prefer to cut this away, modify the benches and add the thwart as a separate item. I have added a panel below the aft seat which will double up as a compartment. When it comes to the cox’n seat there is a slight issue; a grating is provided, but it sits far too high to be a practical platform for the Cox’n ‘s feet. 4032 It is prevented going lower by a ledge forming part of the keel set-up. Careful paring away of this incumbrance allows the grating to sit at a more realistic level. A minor point maybe but the detail devil in me wouldn’t let it go. 4037 The bow platform comes as a pre-cut item which wasn’t a good fit on my build no doubt because of my failings. Fortunately, there is plenty of fret to re-make these items. 4028 Still very much w-i-p and a lot yet to do. B.E. 21/03/2024

That fourth. photo gives a great impression of the mass of rigging involved with a square rigged sailing vessel. Nicely done Kevin.👍 B.E.