Blue Ensign

Nicely done Steve, I had to engage in a little shimming too.
 
B.E.

The first six bulkheads were shimmed port and starboard. This allowed the next plank from the garboard a better fit into the rabbet. The port side plank remains to be fitted. After this is complete the hull will be lined off.
 
Each plank fitted is a small victory.
Steve

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

The casing of Pegasus took place yesterday, one of the most stressful operations since constructing the Headworks.
Slipping the cover over Pegasus with only a few mm clearance each side of the Main Studding Booms ends and Jib boom was scary to say the least.
 
Still all done now, and here she is in her designated place.





 
Moving on now, to what not quite decided.
 
B.E.
 

Cheers Martin, you're my sort of guy. 
 
Thank you Alistair, you're welcome to visit any time you're in the UK.
Your Fly is too good to languish in 'ordinary' I look forward to a re-start of work.
Good to hear from you again,
 
Regards,
 
M.

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

Hi Ken, I upload photo's directly from my computer photo files, and they appear along the bottom of the log entry I am making. You can do this for all the photo's you wish to include in a particular log entry.
I type in the blurb for the log, and then move the cursor below the line of print and click on the photo I wish to select which then appears in the body of the log.
Again move the cursor below the photo and begin writing again in the body of the log, and so on.
 
Hope this helps.
 
B.E.

Nicely done Jason, I agree with Pat, it looks good to my eye, leave well alone now. 
 
B.E.

This build has been a delight to follow Nils, and you have produced a model of outstanding interest and beauty.
You have my utmost admiration.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

The casing of Pegasus took place yesterday, one of the most stressful operations since constructing the Headworks.
Slipping the cover over Pegasus with only a few mm clearance each side of the Main Studding Booms ends and Jib boom was scary to say the least.
 
Still all done now, and here she is in her designated place.





 
Moving on now, to what not quite decided.
 
B.E.
 

For those who may be vaguely curious about the face behind the model, here's yours truly posing with Pegasus before she is cased.

 
B.E.
 

This build has been a delight to follow Nils, and you have produced a model of outstanding interest and beauty.
You have my utmost admiration.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

Gromit was right to question the remaining space to take two strakes.
It proved to be too tight to take two reasonably tapered planks; one to be the sixth plank from the top, and one spiled plank running just below the curve of the hull to complete the planking.
My approach was to perform an insitu taper to the uppermost lower plank (fourth from keel) to equalise the  necessary taper at the bow.

8886
Here the sixth strakes are fitted, leaving just the final spiled strake to be fitted.

8891

8892
This is a very interesting shape but at the bow and stern the widths are not out of kilter with the other planks. Most of the length is otherwise obscured by the curve of the hull.

8897
To get the spiled shape I stick Tamiya tape over the space and cut the shape out with a scalpel.
This is then applied to a strip which is then wetted and cut out allowing a margin for fitting.

8900
The rather contorted shape of the final plank.
It is all then down to sanding the edge to fit; I start with the widest section, mark the position on both the plank and the planks above and below it, and by degrees fine tune the edges to fit in the gap.

8898
This is not difficult but takes time with constant fit checking.
For this last strip both edges are lined to reflect the caulking.
So here's the hull complete but without the very necessary fettlin' that will be required.

8904

8908

8913
At this point I also added the stern post, but I replaced the provided kit part with a Boxwood version.

8915
Once again one of the annoying little sheer plank extensions snapped off during handling, I have glued it back on but I think I will add a back-up strip behind it to make it more robust.
If that fails, the bally things will be removed permanently.
Time now for tidying up, scraping the hull, and 're-caulking' where necessary.
Can't say I'm entirely happy with the way things have gone thus far but work will proceed.
 
B.E.

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.