Blue Ensign

The finishing of the lower hull has been completed.  In addition, all of the touching up on the painted areas has been done.
 
I decided to retain the natural finish of the lower hull.  As I wanted it lighter to contrast the above wale hull, I gave it a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain (I always use this on basswood), one coat of plain 'natural' stain. 2 coats of poly and one coat of dull acrylic.  It actually looks almost untreated but that's what I wanted.  In the photos it's the final one that shows the finished effect.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone for offering your suggestions on the color.  I'll save the 'white stuff' idea for another model.  The Admiral is steaming but nothing that dinner and a show won't solve.  She has also decided that I'm planning on displaying her 'in the wrong direction ......  again !!  But that's normal.  No sense having those exposed framing beams on 'the wall side'.
 
Need to add those moldings we made weeks ago and then onto the stern galleries

My first thoughts . . .
 
Good review, thank you.

Nice review, I do a lot of scrolling myself just never for model ships. My saw is getting close to 10 years old now and I have yet to use the guard. I even let my 11 year old daughter, who is a little clumsy, use it when she wants. I've hit the blade with my fingers a number of times and it doesn't even leave a scratch. The hole on your table is a little large for small pieces. My table has a pretty small hole but for really tiny piece I took a piece of plexi glass and drilled the smallest hole I could that let the blade through and then clamped it to my table with c-clamps. Plex or acrylic sheet is pretty cheap and the wood glides over it smoothly. Enjoy your new toy!
 
I guess I should also mention that I only use pinless blades so the hole can be very small.

B.E.,
Nice saw.... very nice.
 
A couple of hopefully some helpful tips.
 
1) That clear plastic guard is for the lawyers.   I had the same issue and question on my scroll saw and the various people I talked said to take it off, and keep your fingers off the blade. 
 
2)  The hole through the table for the blade... does it have a ledge?  I'm thinking you'll want to make a zero (or at least a very small) clearance insert to go in there. 
 
3)  The blow tube... move it as close to the junction of the wood and blade as you can.  The closer it is, the better it will work.  Seems most of these saws use a bellows attached to the blade arms to pump the air.
 
4) Wax the saw table with a good grade of paste wax.  The will slide easier.

Thank you for posting this most excellent and informative review. Your pictures and demonstration really says it all. 

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

Time to start making guns. After searching around for barrels to replace the kit castings, I could find none that closely matched the sizes needed. As a result, I had two choices: use the castings or make my own. In this case, I chose to try to use the castings. After a lot of filing, drilling out the bore and adding the rings for the breeching rope to the button, the barrels looked acceptable to my eye. They were then painted black.
 
Next came the question of the carriages. This time, I decided not to use the kit parts, but to use the laser cut pear carriage kits from the Lumberyard. Here again, because of the odd scale of the kit (1:76.8), finding a size match was a bit of trial and error. I ended up using their 1:64 6 lb carriages. These still required some modification to allow the barrels to fit. After assembly and finish with Wipe-on Poly, I added the eyebolts, ringbolts and the quoin handles (these were done with the smallest brass belaying pins that I had on hand). The bolt heads on the carriages were done with a fine tip marker. The barrels were then glued in place and the cap squares added using black painted tape ( another concession to the very small size of these pieces).
 
I'm going to rig these guns with blocks and rigging line from Chuck. Sizes are again the issue and I'm now awaiting my second order from Chuck to pick what I want to use.
 
Bob

Well guys figure I couldn't let February end with at least a small update. Have been working on the cannons and a few other items such as the chain pumps, capstan along with redoing the helm port and upper deck transom. It seems the more I looked at those items the more I wanted to redo them and seems that that's what I did. Also added three more of the chain pump sprockets and not hoods along with the chain pin's for the capstan and drop pawl's. Did Montagu have the drop pawl's, maybe yes may be no, butt does seem that they were being used in the fleet as early as 1770 so figure I am safe adding them. Enjoy the photo's folks.  Only 6 more 32 pounder's to add and the guns for this deck will be done.    Gary   



 

 
 

 

Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
 
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines.  Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades).  All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable.  But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think.  Obviously work still to do.  Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension.  Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
 
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains.  Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'.  My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.  
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed.  This technique helped a lot!

 
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes.  This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud).  I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
 
 
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends

Looking marvellous, and I love the workshop shots.
 
B.E.

Today I finished tidying up the work area so that I now can work on either Skipjack or the pilot cutter now that both have their own tables. Rearranging things really does take a while it seems getting some of the model wood out of boxes and onto some additional shelving  makes it so much easier to work.
 

 

 
That done I was able to get the final gluing sorted for the new walls of the cockpit when it is good and set I will work on the top rail. Walter thought it was about time.
 

 

 
The gaff was re-threaded with some of the new rope, a fiddly job, and as I was working I kept thinking about the incredible amount of rigging on Nils' Clipper.
 
Then time to get the boom finished after some final shaping of the jaws, the holes were drilled for the strength bolts and for the slot to accommodate the plate for attaching the tack of the mainsail and the down-haul. because of the length I needed to add a support.
 

 
Once the holes were drilled I began gluing on the leather.
 

 
Then the leather was cut to allow for the wrapping.
 

 

 
after folding down the tabs and the final shaping the jaws end was given a liberal coating of Teak oil.
 

 
Left to right the new lines are the Gaff throat up-haul, peak halliard, jib shroud, gaff throat down-haul. Next I need to make the support for the boom on the mast.
 
Michael
 
 

Nice work Augie, I'm not sure I would cover the lower hull with white stuff, I think the model looks great as it is. Listen to the Admiral
 
B.E.

Adding netting to the mast tops.  I had delayed this step until the rigging was near completion, knowing that I'd snag it or find some way to destroy it.  The same black tulle used for the hammock netting was used for the tops.
Tulle netting measured and glued (C/A) outside the area to be fitted on the mast.  Two cuts marked on the bottom to fit over blocks.
 

 
Lacing the netting to the hand rail on the foretop (Similar to the hand rail on the quarterdeck).
 

 
Netting laced on hand rail, lashed to outer stantions and glued (Fast C/A) to the aft end of the foretop.
 

 
Netting on the maintop
 

 
Note the netting is visible on the aft end of the foretop, with a similar appearance on the maintop.
 

 
A thin veneer, 3 mm. wide was glued over the exposed netting on the foretop and main top
 

 
The mizzen top before and after adding the veneer.
 

 
Next step:  Adding the yard braces.  Cheers, Gil
 
 
 

Well, we've been back on course now for several days.  The result is that at the 400 hour point (and 6 months on the calendar), we've completed the hull planking.  I'm not completely thrilled with it and a few planking 'rules' were shelved here and there.  But all in all I'm satisfied.
 

 

 

 

 
At this point it's been sanded but no finish applied.  Need to make a decision there so we'll move over to the testing bench.  In 1780, copper plates were not routinely used.  'White stuff' would have been SOP so I'll take a look at that.  Rusty used holly on his lower hull and it gave the light effect nicely.  But having gone with kit-supplied basswood I can look at using a natural stain finish.  Or I may decide to stain to match the upper hull (Admiral's preference).  A lot of touching up to do first on the britework (battle damage).
 
I'll figure this all out and the next time she's here we should be ready for a step back and relax moment.
 
Oh, in Ben's Confed log it took him 6 months to reach this point.  Chuck must have built this into the kit (just like he figures everything else out). 
 
 
 
 

Thanks QAR
 
Hi Keith
The Band saw can deal with heavier gauge stuff, is more robust, can still cut fairly tight curves, but for very small delicate work a scroll saw is probably more appropriate. I would envisage using the band saw for many of the tasks I would otherwise use the table saw for.
 
Hi Tom,
85mm is the maximum cut height.
My cutting mat measures 90 cm x 60cm and I got it from a supplier in the UK Cost £26.95
 
http://www.creativegrids.com/acatalog/Industrial_Cutting_Mats.html
 
Thanks for your input Jud, I like the idea of buying cutting mats by the foot, very large mats in the UK cost an arm and a leg.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Thanks QAR
 
Hi Keith
The Band saw can deal with heavier gauge stuff, is more robust, can still cut fairly tight curves, but for very small delicate work a scroll saw is probably more appropriate. I would envisage using the band saw for many of the tasks I would otherwise use the table saw for.
 
Hi Tom,
85mm is the maximum cut height.
My cutting mat measures 90 cm x 60cm and I got it from a supplier in the UK Cost £26.95
 
http://www.creativegrids.com/acatalog/Industrial_Cutting_Mats.html
 
Thanks for your input Jud, I like the idea of buying cutting mats by the foot, very large mats in the UK cost an arm and a leg.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review
 
Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw.
This is really first impressions by a novice user.
 
It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge.
 
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm
 
A few general shots

 

 

Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included.
 

 
First impressions.
This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring  19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed.
As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk.


The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations.
I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text.
 
Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device.
How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one.
Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right.
Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning.

 

 

The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine.
 

The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment.
 
Using the machine.
My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace.
 

This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale.
I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small.
Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also.
 
Here’s the official video of the machine.

Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Thanks QAR
 
Hi Keith
The Band saw can deal with heavier gauge stuff, is more robust, can still cut fairly tight curves, but for very small delicate work a scroll saw is probably more appropriate. I would envisage using the band saw for many of the tasks I would otherwise use the table saw for.
 
Hi Tom,
85mm is the maximum cut height.
My cutting mat measures 90 cm x 60cm and I got it from a supplier in the UK Cost £26.95
 
http://www.creativegrids.com/acatalog/Industrial_Cutting_Mats.html
 
Thanks for your input Jud, I like the idea of buying cutting mats by the foot, very large mats in the UK cost an arm and a leg.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review
 
Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw.
This is really first impressions by a novice user.
 
It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge.
 
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm
 
A few general shots

 

 

Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included.
 

 
First impressions.
This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring  19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed.
As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk.


The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations.
I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text.
 
Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device.
How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one.
Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right.
Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning.

 

 

The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine.
 

The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment.
 
Using the machine.
My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace.
 

This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale.
I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small.
Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also.
 
Here’s the official video of the machine.

Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Hi Peter,
 
That contemporary painting of Pickle by Robert Dodd does indeed show the Foremast vertical and the Mainmast with rake.
When I spoke to Richard Wright at Jotika he said that the painting was the main source of information for the placing of the gaff above the crossjack yard. They obviously didn’t also take the relative mast positions into account.
 
I always thought the Foremast was set a little far back but I spent hours staring at schooners in several books and came to the conclusion that the mast positions varied greatly and there were examples very similar to the Pickle kit set up.
 
Colin White the Curator of the Naval Museum has stated As far as we have been able to tell, no plans of Pickle survive and none of the many paintings she appears in can be considered definitive.
 
The Naval museum model of the Pickle  commissioned in 1968 is also at variance with what we know of Pickle in terms of the armament and doubts have been raised that the model  truly represented her. There is a suggestion that it was based on the plans of HMS Haddock.
 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/85908.html
 
Colin White is also said to believe that the model was not intended to be “Pickle“, rather a close representation of a naval schooner of that period.
 
This is partly because of the inconclusive research available when the model was made and partly because the model is very unlike any smart cutter, as “Sting” was described, of the period.
Significantly, by the late 18th century “smart cutters” were built with finer lines than those of the model.
 
For those who may not have seen the Naval Museum model here's a few photos taken for me by my  friend Chris (chrism as on the old MSW) as part of my research for the build.

 

The set up with the bitts is different to the kit, and there is no windlass.
 

There is just one small jolly boat set centrally, the set up not particularly well done I thought.
 

She is fitted with eight carronades and two carriage guns, not what is recorded as the Pickle ordnance.
 

 
As with many things to do with our interest there are more questions than answers, and even the ‘experts’ can’t always agree.
 
All of this is of course academic as what we are dealing with here is a beginner level kit that most builders accept at face value and it does make up into an attractive model with more than a nod to a schooner of the period.
 
Jotika may be at fault by claiming that the kit is an exact scale model designed using original Admiralty plans , which infers that the plans were of Pickle without clarifying that they didn’t specifically mean Pickle, but  plans of a schooner of the period. There are a lot worse examples in other kit manufacturers claiming a real history for none existent ships.
 
I have seen working boats of the sort of Pickle dimension with the small jolly boat parked on the side, but I also think centrally placed would be better. Pickle was said to carry a cutter and a jolly boat.
 
On the model there is just enough room to fit a scale 16’ cutter (Jolly boat) between the Mainmast and the Galley chimney, and I could have placed the smaller boat in that position.
 
I still like Pickle as a model and the foregoing would not put me off building it.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

Wonderful artistry, a pleasure to see.
B.E.