Chuck Seiler
-
Posts
1,852 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
-
Doug, Greetings and welcome to MSW. Where do you hail from? I have seen your BOUNTY build log. Keep up the good work. I agree with Steven (Louie da Fly) about paddle steamers. Having built the Missouri River boat FAR WEST, paddle steamers are good looking, can present as much of a challenge as a tall ship...without the pesky rigging. There are several good kits out there. ...besides, at a mere 61 you have plenty of time to crank out a several good models.
-
Next NRG Conference
Chuck Seiler replied to YankeeClipper's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Did the place get smaller or is it the NEW Director change the policy on hosting events. He/she probably heard what a rowdy bunch we are. -
It also depends on if you are using your display board as the base for a case. In this case the board would have to be big enough to accomodate a case of sufficient size. IIRC, you should allow 2 inchs beyond all extensions of your model.
-
Hello from Southern California
Chuck Seiler replied to Rodedwards's topic in New member Introductions
The San Diego Ship Modelers Guild (SDSMG) is a chartered chapter of the NRG. More info about the Guild can be found at: https://thenrg.org/about/chapters/sdsmg As Brian mentioned, we meet aboard the SDMM ferry BERKELEY the second Tuesday of each month. You are welcome to visit and chat. -
Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go. Some use 90ish% whereas I prefer the 70ish %. I soak the joint by applying the alcohol with a Q tip or cottonball, depending on how much area that needs to be removed. Once well soaked and allowed to soften, I use an exacto blade (attached to the handle, of course) to gently separate the plank from the frames. Resoak and let soften as needed. Slow, gentle deconstruction takes time and patience, but is well worth the effort.
-
Is information available on that method for those of us that don't own that fine book?
- 855 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Looking for a card model of the Arizona
Chuck Seiler replied to Dion Dunn's topic in Card and Paper Models
Since I don't know what your problems are, I can only add a suggestion which may or may not be relevant. I used to have all sorts of problems ordering/paying for items using PAYPAL. By changing browsers from FIREFOX to Microsoft EDGE (for those transaction) I no longer have problems. Could that be the problem with GPM third party? -
RM, Your plan sounds spot on. I am not familiar with the "Shipwright Series" (until I just looked at it) but I am familiar with Dave A,'s other work. You can't go wrong with him being your instructor/mentor. Both appear to be a great intro into the basics of various building procedures and techniques. The planking is simple, but complex enough to show you how to form the planks so they flow correctly and fit properly. Take note of his suggestions on type of glue and the use of alcohol to un-glue mistakes. (He says to use 95ish% but I use 72%. The higher grade alcohol turns my fingertips to prunes.) ...and if all else fails, basswood is pretty readily available so you can remake the part. Keep a copy of the template for each plank (he sez from experience). Good luck! I will be looking forward to following your build log.
-
Greetings from US - Colorado
Chuck Seiler replied to bubblezephyr's topic in New member Introductions
That happens when you take close-up pictures also. "Where did all that dust come from?" -
Don't get me wrong, LONGBOAT is a great kit, just not a "basic" kit as it appears. It may one where you buy now, set the kit aside for later and use the tools. ALSO, Model Expo has sale all the time, so there is a good chance it will be on sale later down the road, (SPOILER ALERT: If you get on Model Expo's mailing list, you are guaranteed email for life. 😁 ) If you search "first kit" or "recommended first ship model" you will find a couple great threads.
-
Greetings from US - Colorado
Chuck Seiler replied to bubblezephyr's topic in New member Introductions
BubbleZ, Welcome aboard. Remember, you can never have too many clamps. As part of your tool acquisition, I would also recommend magnification. A $15 magnifying headset (with illumination, if possible) is invaluable. If you haven't already done so, check out the Rocky Mountain Shipwrights, located there in Denver. -
RM, Greetings from the lower left hand corner of the USA. Where in the USA are you from? It sounds lime you are new to wooden ship modelling and planking. With that in mind, I would NOT recommend the 18th century longboat as your first project. Since it is single layer planking and you can see both sides of the planking, there is zero room for error. There are many good first models list elsewhere in this forum. If you have your heart set on the longboat, I recommend the NRG half hull planking model, sold on the NRG web site.
-
You need to ensure the frames are square to the keel in 3 dimensions. Square to the build board, square to the keel and side to side. This third one is often overlooked. I used this on my ARMED LONGBOAT buildboard. By using reference marks on the frame or the tops of the frames (as long as the frames are mirror image, side to side) this item can be used to square the frame and ensure it is not canted to one side of the other.
-
Model Expo does, in fact, manufacture their own line of kits. It sounds like Barry's kit is one of them. Without knowing the full extent of the breakage, I need to 'wing it'. This is dealing with the broken extensions only. If you still have them, just glue them back on. I would recommend drilling a small hole in both pieces and inserting a pin. I prefer bamboo sanded to size using a dremel. The other problem is ensuring the piece is correct. Make a template of the bulkhead and use it to ensure the extension is aligned.
-
Looking at the above pic I am seeing features I did not see in the earlier pic (hidden by clamps). I was mistaken. I look forward to seeing how this is resolved.
-
That is why I think the part is just turned around. Model Shipways doesn't have spaceshuttle tolerances, but they are pretty good. This large of a discrepancy doesn't make sense. This is a popular model and I think this large of a discrepancy would have been noted before. As previously mentioned, I have had this problem in the past and resolved it by flipping the part or moving it further along the curve.
-
On one hand, this could be used to calculate trim and help in moving things around to adjust same. Also by using the fore and aft draft marks, one can consult a table to determine how much the ship and its contents weighs (load). I don't know if that was done back then, but we did it in the 1970s.
-
Yowza! That is a huge mismatch. Without benefit of seeing the plans, I want to say the outer stem piece is on backwards. (Not that I'VE ever done that before 🙄)
-
Keep charging!!!
-
The other option is just remove the old garboard strake, or even just the forward plank of the strake, taper and reinstall. This is relatively easy if you used a wood glue. I use a Q-tip to soak the joint with isopropyl alcohol (70%). Easy peasy. Fixing the problem early on keeps the error from compounding. I have had to do this with multiple strakes...I thought I could finesse the problem with sandpaper and xacto, only to have it get worse as the work progressed.
-
Recommendations for new member
Chuck Seiler replied to JayBee750's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard. There is alot of good info about beginner kits above, so I will not go into that. As a plastic model builder, you are familiar with opening the box and seeing a bunch of pieces. Many wooden ship model newbies open their first model kit and think "oh my, what have I gotten myself into?" The newer generation of ship models have evolved from the 'box of sticks and strings' but it can still be daunting. Don't let it be. As mentioned above, starting small and learning the ropes (or the sticks) lets you get a feel for the wood and the techniques. Wood is much more forgiving than plastic. I can honestly say that every ship model I built, I built twice. The first time and then the second time after I pulled it apart so I can fix the things I screwed up. I use a good wood glue rather than CA glue (superglue) for many reasons. One is because it can be unglued easily. Crappy planking can be unglued and redone. Trying to work around a problem tends (in my experience) to compound the problem over time. ...and you can never have too many clamps. -
You ARE sitting at a long crafting table with others...1000s of others...with Wefalck sitting next to you. That is what MSW is all about. Welcome aboard.
-
Silverman's Medieval Ropewalk (kitten not included) 😁 If the rope is cut, will it unravel?
Our Emblem ®
