Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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RM, Greetings from the lower left hand corner of the USA. Where in the USA are you from? It sounds lime you are new to wooden ship modelling and planking. With that in mind, I would NOT recommend the 18th century longboat as your first project. Since it is single layer planking and you can see both sides of the planking, there is zero room for error. There are many good first models list elsewhere in this forum. If you have your heart set on the longboat, I recommend the NRG half hull planking model, sold on the NRG web site.
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You need to ensure the frames are square to the keel in 3 dimensions. Square to the build board, square to the keel and side to side. This third one is often overlooked. I used this on my ARMED LONGBOAT buildboard. By using reference marks on the frame or the tops of the frames (as long as the frames are mirror image, side to side) this item can be used to square the frame and ensure it is not canted to one side of the other.
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Model Expo does, in fact, manufacture their own line of kits. It sounds like Barry's kit is one of them. Without knowing the full extent of the breakage, I need to 'wing it'. This is dealing with the broken extensions only. If you still have them, just glue them back on. I would recommend drilling a small hole in both pieces and inserting a pin. I prefer bamboo sanded to size using a dremel. The other problem is ensuring the piece is correct. Make a template of the bulkhead and use it to ensure the extension is aligned.
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Looking at the above pic I am seeing features I did not see in the earlier pic (hidden by clamps). I was mistaken. I look forward to seeing how this is resolved.
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That is why I think the part is just turned around. Model Shipways doesn't have spaceshuttle tolerances, but they are pretty good. This large of a discrepancy doesn't make sense. This is a popular model and I think this large of a discrepancy would have been noted before. As previously mentioned, I have had this problem in the past and resolved it by flipping the part or moving it further along the curve.
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On one hand, this could be used to calculate trim and help in moving things around to adjust same. Also by using the fore and aft draft marks, one can consult a table to determine how much the ship and its contents weighs (load). I don't know if that was done back then, but we did it in the 1970s.
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Yowza! That is a huge mismatch. Without benefit of seeing the plans, I want to say the outer stem piece is on backwards. (Not that I'VE ever done that before 🙄)
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Keep charging!!!
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The other option is just remove the old garboard strake, or even just the forward plank of the strake, taper and reinstall. This is relatively easy if you used a wood glue. I use a Q-tip to soak the joint with isopropyl alcohol (70%). Easy peasy. Fixing the problem early on keeps the error from compounding. I have had to do this with multiple strakes...I thought I could finesse the problem with sandpaper and xacto, only to have it get worse as the work progressed.
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Recommendations for new member
Chuck Seiler replied to JayBee750's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard. There is alot of good info about beginner kits above, so I will not go into that. As a plastic model builder, you are familiar with opening the box and seeing a bunch of pieces. Many wooden ship model newbies open their first model kit and think "oh my, what have I gotten myself into?" The newer generation of ship models have evolved from the 'box of sticks and strings' but it can still be daunting. Don't let it be. As mentioned above, starting small and learning the ropes (or the sticks) lets you get a feel for the wood and the techniques. Wood is much more forgiving than plastic. I can honestly say that every ship model I built, I built twice. The first time and then the second time after I pulled it apart so I can fix the things I screwed up. I use a good wood glue rather than CA glue (superglue) for many reasons. One is because it can be unglued easily. Crappy planking can be unglued and redone. Trying to work around a problem tends (in my experience) to compound the problem over time. ...and you can never have too many clamps. -
You ARE sitting at a long crafting table with others...1000s of others...with Wefalck sitting next to you. That is what MSW is all about. Welcome aboard.
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Silverman's Medieval Ropewalk (kitten not included) 😁 If the rope is cut, will it unravel?
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What did you prime with? My limited experience with painting models (I only paint sections, like the wale or a panel...and I don;t complete many models) is that I seal the wood only. Then I use what I believe Chuck P. refers to as 'carriage process'. I thin the acrylic (using artist acrylics) to just thicker than water. Apply. Let dry, Apply a second coat. Let dry. Buff with a micro fiber cloth or very fine (600+) sand paper. Apply/dry/buff at least 2 more, maybe 4 more coats, depending on color. It takes time but the results are worth the effort. I understand that painting the wale is much different in scale than painting the whole hull...
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Who knew there was a second half to the season.
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Years ago I knew a guy who made modern US Navy ship models. He was quite prolific. He used Testors Dove Grey spray paint. I don't know if that is around any more, but it is worth a look. Testors/Model Master makes a haze grey semi gloss acrylic, in a jar (hand paint). I believe I saw in another post you make sci-fi related models. You probably know how to get a good finish using a brush. If not, there are some good articles/posts here that can help. Since it is semi gloss, I would recommend perhaps a matt finish (DullCote) overlay.
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I second that. I like doing ships in a bottle, but I usually only get to the part where I empty the bottle.
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My research indicates the flag you have is the correct one. Here is somebody's depiction.
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There is an mtaylor in the system, but not an mtaylor,.
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Unless you put a comma after it, apparently.
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Here is what I got from MSW post many years ago. Don't know how accurate for the period, but to paraphrase Bruce, "Close enough for government work".
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Great progress!!!! Are those barrels large enough? One major product was wine. IIRC a tun was about 4 foot tall.
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The Pilgram - Tall Ship - sinks at its berth!
Chuck Seiler replied to thibaultron's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)
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