Landlubber Mike

Another great build Craig - fast too!  Really nice job!

That came out really great!  Very nice job!

Wow, nice job Kevin!!  Fantastic work on such a beautiful subject.  Good luck at the show!

Nice figures OC!  Looking great!

Those look like great accessories for the diorama.  Looking forward to seeing you pull it all together!

Outstanding work Dan!!  Very well done!

This is building up really nicely Max!  Great job!

First, glad to hear you're ok Craig.  The pictures from Florida look awful.  

Love your model - looking great!  For the pictures, i'm probably more partial to 1 and 3.  2 is a bit too much, 5 a bit too little.  A little hard to tell when I'm not exactly sure what the painted model itself looks like.  Would be interesting to see if the answers would change for models with different colors and tones.

Looks great Kevin!  Figures bring it to life for sure!

Not sure what you call those little blobs on the rigging line, but how did you do them?  I was thinking about PVA, but am worried they will cause the lines to sag too much especially since I'm using very thin line from Infini that is like EZ Line.

Well done!  Personally I like it with all that mud on it.  Looks like it had a productive day.  Great job!

Love it Alan, really nice job!

Looking good!  Cool subject

Good to know Kevin - I'm down to the main lines that go down the middle of the ship.  And yes, put men on the ship!  I have a few dozen on mine.

That's fantastic Kevin!  I'm just about done rigging my Shimakaze - you said you love rigging, I should have just sent you mine!  Took me a while to work out a system on how to attach the lines.  Using a dot of accelerator helps a lot!

2 minutes ago, Jaager said:

 

 

Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.

 

Definitely consider depth.  Some of the workbenches out there are 20" deep and that's not very much if it's going to be your primary workbench for building larger ship models.  20" may be fine for smaller power tools, but that's about it.

I haven't been very successful in trying to remove the warp in plywood keels.  My guess is taking the warp out of a smaller part might be even harder.  I'd cut a new one out - shouldn't be too hard.  The time you spend now will save issues down the road should you try to use a bulkhead that is not perfectly flat.

Wow, that was fast!  Looks amazing Craig, very very nice job!  The deck is a very nice choice for the display.

That deck scrubbing set looks really cool.  Hope you manage to get one Craig!

Nice job on the camo - that must not have been a fun masking job!  Looks really great!

Looks amazing Craig!  Nice job!

Some from the Kagero and TopDrawings books for the Shimakaze:

Here is a video from Ebroin's Miniatures - you can see the stretched sprue rigging from the spars on the bridge mast, and in a different color:

Very cool Michael!  Clever way of using the punches to get those rounded profiles.  I learn something new every time I log on here.  Looking forward to watching this one come along!

12 hours ago, Javlin said:

I am now working the the lines for the SS probably 15/20 more out front it's hard to get a sag?Maybe I need to go to stretched sprue?Some pics............

 

Looks great Kevin!  Timely that I read your post as I'm in the middle of rigging my Shimakaze and wondering about whether and how to get a sag in some of the lines.  Easy when using EZ-Line, etc. to get a taut line, but I'm wondering about the lines that should be sagged.  I ended up rigging the rear tower section, now about to start the bridge area.

Speaking of which, on the bridge, are the lines off the main mast that are connected to the pulleys on the spars supposed to sag?  Some pictures I've seen them sag, others not.  Also, are those lines black or are they usually a lighter color?  Some I've seen more white/tan.  

For what it's worth, I saw someone create sagged lines on the bridge rigging using stretched sprue.  Once he got the lines set up, he rolled a cylinder down the sprue one or two times to get a gentle curve.

Looks great Craig!  The details are fantastic - looks like Takom did a nice job on this kit.

Nice work!  I always feel like it's a big leap forward in the build finally getting the fuselage buttoned up after all the work that goes into putting together the mostly unseen cockpit.