Landlubber Mike

Dan, somehow I missed that you completed this one.  Another stellar build!  Well done!

Looks really great Dave.  Must be an interesting experience dealing with well-made kits that have tight clearances.  Most of the ones I've worked on recently have had big gaps to fill!

Nice job Jack!  Looks like it was a fun project.

Looks great!  Are you planning to print these parts?

I'm a big fan of the Amati Keel Klamper and the Hobbyzone Professional building slip.  You can probably build something similar to the slip (I did using MDF board and angle brackets) as well.

Not sure how I missed this one - sweet project and subject!  Looking fantastic!

Hope everything is going better for you my friend!

1 hour ago, king derelict said:

Thank you Mike. I was a bit nervous of the Mirage kits but they are really quite nice with decent detail. I wish they made a short forecastle version but I suppose it impacts the tooling and costs. I have the four ships that they make, some have PE for railings others not. The White Ensign PE is good for the later bridges and different radar lanterns but quite a bit of it won’t get used.

Alan

I have the Revell 1/144 Snowberry kit with Pontos set (bought from a member here a few years ago) and the Revell 1/72 kit with the David Parsons upgrades.  Would love to start building them, but want to get my skills up a bit to do them justice.  Those Mirage kits look quite nice, especially at that scale.

Cool little project Jack!

Looking great Alan!  I love the Flower Class corvettes.

Those came out great Patrick!

Hi Nils, great start on your Elbe!  These light ships are really interesting.  I visited the Overfalls a few years ago (it's in Delaware) and always thought these ships would be cool subjects to model - something different than the 5000 English war ships that are out there.  Looking forward to following along!

He's back!  Looks great Kevin, very crisp work on the PE there.

Very cool - interesting way to apply it.  I think on my Buffalo diorama I just took a pinch in my fingers and sprinkled it on like I was sprinkling on seasonings on a piece of meat.  This looks like it gives more control.

Looks great Dan - nice decal work.

Looking great Chris!  Love the shelf too!

Just out of curiosity, are these kits usually built OOB (out of envelope)?  Seems like things like the pre-cut frames would almost be a necessity.  I'm sure the pre-made resin wheels are also a much welcome piece of aftermarket.

Made some good progress on the JRS-1 the last few days.  First, installed all the interior components - bulkheads, cockpit, seats, windows, window frames, curtains, etc.  Given that you can't see much of any of the details from the outside, I didn't bother trying to make everything look pristine.

Then managed to get the fuselage buttoned up.  Surprisingly, very little filler or plastic strips needed, though the canopy is going to require plenty.

The top was a pain because you had to insert the rectangular piece in between the fuselage halves (you could cut this in half and model it as open), as well as the two forward top fuselage halves.  Not exactly easy to do, but eventually got there.

Thanks for looking in!

Cool subject Denis, I'm in.  Hope your home situation is resolving itself.  Sounds like a real mess.

Loving your build Dan.  Congrats on retiring!

Looking forward to seeing this one come along Chris.  I finally managed to track down a catapult set for the Airfix 1/48 Sea Hurricane and have been doing some background research on these planes.  Very cool subject!

Looks like a cool subject!  Looking forward to seeing this one come along.

Interior is all painted and ready to be buttoned up:

Half of the Eduard resin passenger seats had broken arm rests.  I ended up cutting them all off, then replacing them with brass wire.  Won't be able to see them, but for some reason I feel better knowing that they are there:

Thanks for looking in!

5 minutes ago, GGibson said:

 

I am actually preferring the curved #10 Xacto blade for my work, including the removal of PE pieces.  I can "rock" the blade easier, rather than slicing with the #11 blade.

 

I use the #10 curved blade also.  Just press down and rock/roll over the attachment.  Plus, the #10 blade has better strength and stability relative to #11 blades.  I use #11 Swann Morten blades for pretty much all my other work.

Chris, great job on the Titanic!  Looking forward to your Victory build.  I see you have a well stocked bar - that will help you during the long days/nights of planking, copper plating, and cannon rigging

Thanks Kevin!  I've got the interior painted up.  I'm going to weather the cockpit area a bit and then assemble it.  You can't really see anything inside given the very small windows, but still worth a little extra work.  

i built the Caldercraft Badger years ago and put furled sails on.  Looking forward to seeing yours come along, especially with the full sails.