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cwboland

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Everything posted by cwboland

  1. If I remember correctly, Juniper has similar properties to pine and spruce, being a soft open-grained wood. That said, I wouldn't think that model ship building, or modelling in general, would have much use for a softwood like these, balsa being the exception of course.
  2. That's a great idea. Don't think I've seen those bottles used for that before
  3. Having used a Dremel in the past and owning a Mastercraft (Canadian Tire brand), I've found that the only thing you have to worry about between brands is getting the right size collet for the bit you are going to use. I'm sure all brands have their highs and lows. Just do your research and you will find one that suits your needs and budget. But as KeithW has said, a flex-shaft is a (near) must in our hobby. Helps to get the precision areas with more control than just using the power head.
  4. I've used something similar in the past and they seem to work great for getting small items into cramped spaces. May be useful for rigging blocks and the like.
  5. As Cap'n Bob has indicated, try your local hardware store. Even if they don't have black, you could get the galvanized or brass and blacken it chemically or with paint.
  6. Sure looks good from where I'm sitting. Hope to some day have a Halifax on my bench that looks half that nice
  7. I have used poplar for larger projects like finish carpentry and furniture making and the like. It is a very nice wood to work with and I see no reason why it would not work well for smaller parts and projects like our hobby. If anybody has any insight, I'm sure fellow readers would like to know
  8. Although hard to deny this, I've seen in the retail market where one dissatisfied customer can lead to up to potentially 10 lost customers. The dissatisfied one tells all his/her friends and they never return to that store. On the flip side, one good review will likely generate the same gains in customers. I have heard nothing but good things about ME from all you wonderful and helpful people here, and will likely purchase from them in the future - pending the Admirals approval of course.
  9. I think this is a case of build-it-your-way syndrome. If you feel that all the moving parts should be replicated that way on your model, feel free to do this. You could also do some of the moving parts, or none at all. Just my 2c
  10. Just a thought, but have you tried nail polish remover? Most nail polishes are enamel based, similar to the testors pants you're using.
  11. I'm still waiting for the parts from Great Hobbies out of PEI Canada as their supplier is currently back ordered. You should be able to get the right size deadeyes from your hobby shop or from any online hobby retailer. I found both 3 and 5mm deadeyes online
  12. Hello d'brat. You may want to count your deadeyes. I just (almost) finished the AL Bluenose II but am still waiting for the deadeyes to arrive as the kit came up short by almost half. Count both sizes and make sure you have enough to do all the ratlines and other rigging. Cheers
  13. This is a really good idea. I wonder if the same principle could be used with iron on transfers that you can print from your printer as well
  14. Don't forget to check the end grain of the wood. Putting the cups together may help eliminate the problem you're getting. I have used this before for larger projects, ie. furniture and decorative pieces, and it seems to solve the issue nine times out of ten
  15. Zeek, I was searching through http*://www.modelshipbuilder.com/news.php (remove * at http to follow link) and found he uses "Brava Reader" - can be found by googling both words - to scale drawings and plans. I haven't had a chance to use it as of yet, so no idea how well it works. You may want to give it a go and see if it works for you. Let us know if you have any success with it.
  16. Not sure if scalable or accurate, but have you tried drilling a hole and using a brass or copper wire as a stop? Just an idea that I have seen used in other situations elsewhere
  17. I found a retailer out of Florida that may be of help. www.historicships.com. Haven't tried ordering from them yet but they do have a decent selection of both US and EU manufacturers. They will ship to US and Canada via UPS. May not hurt to check them out Carl
  18. That looks like a wonderful box of sticks and parts. Look forward to seeing the build. Carl
  19. Thank you Cristiano for your insights. Does anybody have any other information wrt the Constructo kits in general - ie quality of materials, support, etc.? Thank you again, Carl
  20. I just finished a AL Bluenose II. The kit was great. Only one pain. It was short about 2 dozen deadeyes. I was able to get these from my LHS, but any larger issues would probably be better off suited to the manufacturer
  21. Hey all, I have recently almost completed my first build, an AL Bluenose II. This being my first ship model but having experience in both modelling and woodworking, it was relatively simple less the rigging and sails. My next prospective build is looking to be a Constructo Halifax and I was wondering if anybody has had the fortune - good or bad - to have constructed this particular ship regardless of manufacturer. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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