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Everything posted by clearway
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Thanks for looking in everyone, sorted out the masts using the admiralty dimensions and they look about right- also got the capping rails on the bulwarks ( used the 5x2 mm as opposed to the 6x2 mm they instructed). because i upped the diameter of the fore and main masts i had to step them from deck level down to where they slot into the frames as these were meant for the 6 mm dowel not the 7mm and 8mm now used. take care all Keith
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thanks for looking in and comments everyone- just a little session in shipyard, and got the entryways on the bulwarks lined with walnut and planked some of the stern. have fun all. Keith
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that is correct keith yes- i cut a piece of scrap dowel to size indicated and when put in situ it just didn't look right so out came mr lees book! the wierd thing is the dimensions for the topmasts and topgallant masts were about equal to the admiralty order (in the case of the topmasts bang on). Keith
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been doing some research using lees masting and rigging and the closest match regarding mast dimensions on the admiralty order for 1839 are from a 10th class frigate (keith s kindly gave me the mast diameters from his plans) according to lees the dimensions are= foremast (from deck level) = 48' 6" diameter 22" mainmast= 53' 6" diameter 24" Mizen mast= 43' 6" diameter 18" so 7mm dowel for the bowsprit and foremast, 8mm dowel for the main and will use the 6mm for the mizzen. compared to occre plans they got it about right for the mast lengths , but you need to add on the measurement for the mast below decks where they run into the frames. Keith
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another one down the ways well done and great job Keith
- 109 replies
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- Vanguard Models
- Flirt
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Hi keith- was wondering where you had got to, it's the same in Cumbria you cram all the outdoor work in when it actually stops raining so been working on my garden/ winter messy modelling / spraypainting mancave😁. Over the last week it has only stopped raining for two days😐. Keith
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Ty geowolf and lol @ terrified of terror😄 . I will be using metal plating on the bows as well, though i do have some 10mm wide self adhesive copper strip so might use that instead of the aluminium provided, i planked the bows like i did to act as a guide for the plating. Keith
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Ty Jo-you will find the planking will get better with practice- but normally i go with a painted finish on my ships- this will only be the third one i have built that will be varnished wood finish. Keith
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Ty Rob and ty for the likes and looking in as always everyone- got all the planking finished and gave a bit of a sanding to see how she looks especially around the stern🤔 i don't normally do 2nd planking- after this i can see why🤪. Take care all Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone- not much happening with D.I.Y. and gardening but nearly done with walnut planking- added more planks to other side and gotthe timber above the propeller opening in place. take care all Keith
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can't agree more- a little patience fairing the frames will save pain later- lay a planking strip along a couple of frames and it will give an idea about how much to sand off- it's a case of sand and check- also the amount of bevel will differ along the frame from top to bottom. Keith
- 19 replies
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welcome to the terror club, dont forget to sand back to bare wood when adding fittings to decks. Keith
- 19 replies
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HI Emmet it was because the planking was rough cut and full of knots just felted and battened it (you guys might call it tar paper) as it isn't seen from the house garden on that wall and all good. Sod's law but during lockdown we had one of the warmest driest spring / early summers for years, now the hotels and bars are allowed to open it's never stopped raining! Glad to hear you are getting the hang of the planking😁. Keith
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i have the occre beagle as well in my stash- my advice is get a copies of books on modelling ships (plenty of 2nd hand ones around) which will give you a better idea than occre videos- also there are a gazillion build logs on here for tips🤓- i learnt by building a couple of the easier billings boats kits and reading books on the subject. Keith
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Thanks for likes views and comments everyone- work continues with the walnut planking including the sternpost- this side nearly done bar a few stealers and planks right above propeller well and about half dozen planks to go on the other. Take care all Keith
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i loop the shroud around the mast then tie them using black sewing thread thread and glue the knot with P.V.A and trim when dried alternate starboard then port then starboard again etc etc. then when all done i use a homemade spacer and tie the deadeyes in place starting in same order i rigged shrouds. there is a pic of the deadeye spacer on my victory log. hope this makes sense😁. Keith
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ty for the comments and likes everyone- blue ensign- yes i like the research side of things and the other keith (keiths) has been a great help along with matthew betts build log- long live the little terrors😁. Geowolf- that is why i have replaced the kit supplied very thin splintery veneer with 0.5 mm x 4mm walnut strip which will allow a bit of sanding back. Keith
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Thank you Keith- i have a natural distrust of ca glue for plank work - even though you can get a tight joint the wood can actually splinter away with bits of the parent surface still attached🤪. don't know if you can get it over in Canada but i use evo-stick interior wood adhesive which has a fairly fast "grab" time and is set in about 6 hours which is a lot faster than P.V.A. but you do have to be fairly quick in forming the bond (couple of minutes). As an aside has anybody else noticed spell checkers arn't familiar with nautical terms for ships furniture- been teaching my samsung galaxy phoneand think it's getting to grips😁 Keith
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you could add a skin of veneer planking after sanding back. Keith
- 106 replies
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work slowly progressing on the 2nd walnut planking- using white wood glue as opposed to contact adhesive thus only a few planks at a time and the dressmakers pins😁. also fitted the garboard plank. take care all keith
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