clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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thanks Jo, you have done a great job with the deck- i worked from the top down using brass pins which were then removed after the glue had hardened then added filler in any gaps and sanded down.i start tapering from where the frames start to narrow- on this one i started tapering from 4th frame in from the bow and terminated the top most plank around where the mizzen mast is with the sternwards taper starting just after the fullest middle frame - this allowed the next plank to start sweeping up the counter i also soak the strips for a few hours in water to stop them cracking when bent and use wood adhesive as opposed to cyano- hope this makes sense! Keith -
hmmm not good times for anyone Emmeti have heard similar stories from people im u.k. om the victory bow i see no stepped cut outs in the beak which is nice of them! the gratings actually curve upwards as they leave the bow deck- the pieces for forming the supports should be upright and at 90 degrees ton the keel there should be a side elevation in the plans but i have never built a kit from them guys so not sure which way they go around it. found this pic in an old modelling book. take care and hope things get better for you soon. Keith
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thanks for views and comments everyone- first planking now finished with stealers fitted at stern. also took delivery of two caldercraft 10 spoke ships wheels- although 1/64 scale they are 24mm across spokes so not too oversize (well spotted with the spoke count keith s). next job pull pins and get sanding. take care all Keith
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you are welcome Emmet- the above comment was for Matthew as he has never built a wooden ship before. as regards your Vic you are doing the correct thing in hesitating and thinking through because yes the main gun deck is a bugger to get into when all decks and skid beams are in place. hope you get the attention you need to get on the mend again and see her finished. Keith
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HMS Terror by DaJH - OcCre - 1:75
clearway replied to DaJH's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
welcome to the terror club- feel free to ask questions. Keith -
ah brings back memories from 23 years ago! when planking billings hulls don't follow the same method of planking as some other kits, taper the planks at bow and stern from deck level down- i ues this method and have never used filler pieces- when planking finished run white wood glue between planks then when hardened start sanding- my hms terror blog is on the planking stage and i will add a couple of pics here of finished fd10 and billings marie jeanne which has been sanded down and waiting priming. hope this helps with planking Keith
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this is why you see a lot of people (including the advise post at the start of build logs) advising against big complicated models like victory and constitution- this has taxed me at times and i have built and finished around 12 ships before this one. serious advise is to finish the framing then get a smaller kit (billings "Norden" is fairly cheap and you can practice tapering planking etc before tackling this monster hull). Then resume the victory build. Keith
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the planks are flush matthew- they are just warped a little cross wise and with the caulking gives the impression of a clinker style hull.
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looks o.k. so far Keith- i am thinking about using the point of a scriber to imitate nail indents. The chainplates look a lot better than occres (i am either going to scratchbuild the chainplates or go down same path- depends how energetic i feel at the time). Keep up the good work so far. Keith 😉
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nice one with ye olde airfix kit! someone did etched hammock netting for the airfix victory (scalelink i think) but he semi retired and someone else is doing some of his etches (mostly railway modelling side though- called fretcetra or something similar). Keith
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yes the blocks above have rope strops the wire is for others- my wire is a little finer - also can use it to make eyebolts and hooked blocks- the blocks at base of mainmast and on yard pics are stropped with iron wire. yard with iron stropped blocks and blocks with iron strop with hook i know you like extreme close ups Emmet😉 Keith
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better too many than too few Emmet are you going to put a little piece of deck in ehere the entryport goes into the hull? i wish i had🤪 Keith
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Thanks for views, likes and comments everyone- if i go for the 2nd planking i will use wood glue- the type i use is evo-stick fast grab glue- you can also use dress makers pins to hold the thinner planks in situ till they dry. I need to think how i am going to intergrate the stern/ rudderpost assembly into the hull, just glad i managed to get the "tuck" at the stern. Safe to say i have deviated slightly from the destructions😉. shot of planking nearly completed- glad i didn't go with fashion pieces for the bow- need some stealer planks in the stern then pins pulled and sanding time. take care all Keith
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Ty Emmet- yep i also run my rigging through beeswax as well- i also never throw any ends i have cut off to use for strops-i also use annealed iron jewelry wire for blocks which is thin and coated black. Keith
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good idea with the bow filler pieces Jeff- easier to remove material than adding it😱 Keith
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Ty Jeff- wasn't sure whether to ease the frames and take a couple of mill off at the turn or stick with it- decided on latter but not sure how accurate as they do appear a little fuller than on the lines plans i have seen.
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nearly got the first planking finished- depending how it looks after sanding and if i'm painting her might not bother with second planking - see how it goes. one weird shaped hull towards the turn of the bilge amidships Keith
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she evolves jeff Keith
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hello and thanks for likes views and comments everyone- as always they are appreciated. the fore yard has now been painted and varnished with two coats of Ronseal acrylic varnish. while working on the rope strops for the blocks on the yard i thought i would show how i go about it- not prototypical but does me! first clamp the strop to the block (poor admirals long suffering peg collection) then using sewing thread tie an overhand knot first one side then the other until at least 7 turns have been done, then tie off with a double knot and glue with P.V.A. when dried cut off any part of strop not needed and sewing thread ends then form eye by clamping again- in true t.v.fashion here's one i prepared earlier! repeat with sewing thread and ta-da after drying trim off excess not needed. take care all Keith
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if you mean the run of the gunports then yes the ports are cut into the wales as the planking run does not follow same run as the decks- some people just using varnished wood as a finish replicate the yellow/ black pattern using wales- this is not prototypical just cosmetic. hope the below pic helps.
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yep- take a peek at my hms terror and early pages of my victory log- looks a bit rough on terror but quality of planking material is not to the same standard as in your kit. Keith
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TY Scott and O.C. - before i started rigging the yards i would move victory off the workbench and onto the dining room table - walked out of my modelling room to find the cat with his back legs still on the table but the front paws on the quarter deck and his head squeezed between the mizzen stays trying to play with the quarter deck guns the little s@!t- it was interesting trying to extricate him🤔🤪🤯😱
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thanks for looking in everyone - planking continues- have dug out more strips of wood left over from billings builds as it bends easier for the stern- looks a bit rough n ready with three different thicknesses of planking but looks like i will get that tuck on the stern done😁 fingers crossed🤔. take care all Keith
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its the whales overlapping the planking- it can get confusing because the yellow lines / gunports don't follow the whales- if you look at the following pic and pay attention to the gunports you will see the top of the whale as well as the bottom of it.
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