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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. yep spider band looks a lot better keith- i think occre have the heights of the masts about right but dont fasten anything to them until you have squared the tops and added the bands etc. Keith
  2. good to hear Keith , your soul sounded in a dark place there for a while. Not a bad little boat and nice seeing a sailboat gaff rigged as opposed to the run of the mill triangular sails you see . Keith
  3. Hi Keith- sorry to hear about the lost book- if you need any info in the future just ask(when i get to it there is a standard ratio they used for lengths of masts/ yards- a little "modellers licence" is allowed though😉. Taking a break from her is a good idea if it is doing your nut in- there's gaps of 6-12 months where i havn't touched victory, and i still have to finish a scratch built dredger i started in 1998! Out of curiosity what type of craft are you building as i grew up around boats being the son of a fisherman and was hopping over bulwarks and anchor chains about as soon as i could walk. take care Keith
  4. still working away on my winter messy modelling workshop so not much happening in shipyard though did manage to get the fore tops'l yard tyes rigged to the kevels on fore deck. next job will be the tops'l sheets. take care all Keith
  5. i install the masts then rig the shrouds starting with mizzen and sequence forward - basically there is a step by step guide on my billings victory log- then i install the driver boom and gaff then the yards working from mizzen forwards- on ships from terrors era the futtock stays rig to cains around the mast as opposed to the shrouds on earlier ships.😉 beware occre havn't got the rigging 100% correct. Keith
  6. not much happening in the shipyard due to D.I.Y. projects (getting my winter messy job lair organised with spray benches, stove and lift up shelter on veranda - admiral says i look like kiosk keith!) did manage to get the walnut planking on the outside of the bulwarks which gives an idea how the hull will look colour wise- should be dark enough though walnut can mellow in colour when it is exposed to air long enough. the access ports etc still need trimmed to size on bulwarks. take care all Keith
  7. that is the best way Emmet- i spent a lot of time getting the planking on my victory as good as possible because even though i was painting/ coppering i still wanted a sound foundation for everything to rest on- filler and coppering shouldn't be used to hide serfious mishaps😉 Keith
  8. it will go as far as the start of the bow or forefoot-the build log i mentioned will explain- but if your method is going to work go for it😉😁. everyone has their own viewpoint on this. Keith
  9. looking at her on the cradle looking sideways on with the ship upright (as if you were observing a real ship in a dry dock) Keith
  10. looking good considering you have not had much experience with planking- the priming and sanding until the wood grain is rubbed down is a pain- one of the jobs i only ever do outdoors due to the dust. Keith
  11. it will be tapered from the top to make it look straight when viewed sideways on- there is an interesting half hull project in kit logs showing planking techniques which you might find interesting- can't remember name on build log but posts were being added recently.
  12. is now a bad time to mention a european manufacturer makes a laser kit wooden deck for her😇- however excellent weathering technique with the deck. Keith
  13. nice to see you have learnt the art of tapering the planks- don't rush her she is looking great. Keith
  14. nows the time to decide if you want to show the steps leading down from the upper gun deck to the middle gun deck- you will have to squeeze a piece of deck in where the steps are😉 Keith
  15. welcome back Emmet- general rule is garboard plank should look straight from bow to midships when viewed from side- that bit for cutting gunports will save you a lot of time. Keith
  16. welcome to the hms victory builders club dave Keith
  17. weird i got wooden deadeyes with mine!? and even though wrong the ships wheels were bronzed- maybe due to manufacturing restrictions over last few months- i got some replacement boats from quaycraft via cornwall model boats. Keith
  18. looking good jeff -to get my run for the tuck on victory and terror i held a plank where the stern post meets the counter and let it fall naturally round the hull and tapered my planking around that at the stern end- basically you end up half way round the bilge from the top of the sternpost😁 Keith
  19. you look after yourself too Jo- glad to be of service- any questions feel free to ask. Keith
  20. it is called soft ply and all the billings kits used it till laser cutting came along- only solution if using a painted finish is to use high build primer then sand back- pain in the rear end but best way. Keith
  21. good thing about using card is easier to make a load of frames fairly easy thus making for a stronger hull Keith
  22. work progresses with the yards- i have seen a few people asking how you attach the yards to the masts- easy use the rigging designed for the task- if you glue or nail the yard in place it could cause severe damage if accidentally caught and trust me i have been playing knock the yard arms with this one😵. first shot shows one of the tyes rigged from the masthead through the block on the yard then through block attached to masthead before heading down to the kevel- process repeated in reverse as well to other side. shot of foremast- next job will be to rig the parralls then yard will be hoisted to final position. take care all Keith
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