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Everything posted by clearway
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i had to do the same with the ply formers- as mentiond in blog cut and shut them till they sat with less wavy effect- when it comes to actual planking check a few different logs and images of real victory and mark out where the lower whale goes- you will have to start tapering the planking from there down - you can see the run on the stern on my victory- no blocks were used on mine but its up to you. Keith
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thanks for views and comments -used the last of the full length planks and got a couple of runs with kit supplied planks staggering the joins where it doesn't reach the stern- at 2mm thick it isn't very yeilding! looks a bit messy but should sand up o.k.🤨. take care all Keith
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhh the memories😉- hope my log helps Matthew- any questions just ask Keith
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You got there in the end with the frames Emmet i see- give the deck a sanding and let it oxidise for a few days- colour sometimes alters- for example walnut comes out of the box an ugly chocolate brown and mellows to a lovely honey colour- on the real ships though they were painted red to hide the blood! keith
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Thanks for views likes and comments everyone- because the planking strips supplied with the kit arn't long enough i dug out some left over from previous billings builds- although a bit on the rough side i did want to have full length planks for the first few runs. First i pencilled off the line where the ply bulwarks will reach too. take care all Keith
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cheers jeff - still a bit jittery about how it will turn out as i am making this up as i go along 🤔
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Thank you Keith- it will explain a few things- they might have done things with the rig on exploration ships slightly different, but i imagine the rigging for controlling the yards and sails would have followed standard naval practice- will explain them sheaves set into the bulwarks abaft the masts for example. The kevels just before the steps to the poop deck are for the topyard tyes which lowered the yard and raised it, and the two on the entry way inline with the mainmast are for the mainyard lifts. Keith
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😁well done jeff- nice job and love the stand. gets the lads on my victory to roll off a 21 gun salute Keith
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Thanks as always for views likes and comments everyone. Got all the rigging on the quarter deck stored away on the belaying pins and made progress on the foreyard- omg foreyard at last! Nearly glued the railing in place before the mainmast, but realised i will have to rig the mizzen crossjack braces so will need access still. enclosed this shot of the rail to show the brass pins that will hold it in place. take care all Keith
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Thanks for views and likes everyone-if i hadn't built a few already i wouldn't have tried either Keith and yours looks o.k. - to be honest we will have to see how it turns out in't end🤨. While waiting for some glue to dry on my Victory i fettled the planking on the counter to take the sternpost. take care all Keith
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Thanks for views ,likes and comments everyone- got the replacement frames in the bow faired and the planking on the transom- always makes me nervous altering the way a kit is built- go too far and one ruined kit🤢. glued the three parts for the sternpost assembly (still need sanded to final shape) and trial fitted to stern- need to rebate into top and bottom planks to get it sitting right' the first planking will finish at the frame the will be rounded off to do the tuck with the second planking. after the planks on transom have been sanded to shape can start planking- yeyyyyyyyyy. take care all Keith
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wow you were up early martin! hope you got it as nice as we have in cumbria this morning- yep model shipbuilding is a pleasure/ pain thing along the lines of sado/masochism😏. also google cutty sark and click on images- nothing like real thing for info🙂
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hi matthew my longridge anatomy of nelsons ships is in a smaller thicker format but an essential must have for victory modellers😉 just take your time and double check everything Keith
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my default drill bit is a 0.68mm bit in a pin vice then use a bigger drill if needed and use a pin vice as opposed to actual drill though it goes for you fingers and wrists when drilling out for belaying pins- the position for the bulwark frames should be on the plans somewhere, but there are a few build logs on here for this model. Keith
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the tranverse curves atop the frames is the deck camber and should be left- if the midship frames are right use them as a datum- also check the height at the beak with the bulkhead right at the front - hope that makes sense- however just insert the frames and adjust by eye till they "look right" compared with other builds you see- this stuff can drive you nuts at times!!
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Hi Emmet- the rigging chord from billings is white-but the lashing behind the foremast doubling looks white because it had just been glued- for the lashings on the stays to the yards i used some light grey thread bought from a sewing shop as white looked too obtrusive- on this pic i have enlarged the lashing and you will see the strops for the topgallant shrouds belayed to the deadeyes. hope this helps explain more clearly also in ship yard been tidying some of the spaghetti in the waist before i start on foremast. take care all Keith
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