clearway
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i tapered them so they lay easier and "teased them between fingers and thumb gently working bends and twists into them- the tapering at the ends is crucial though - by the time they meet the bow should be about half the width. Keith -
HMS Terror by Mish - OcCre - 1:65
clearway replied to Mish's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
the joys in learning planking- nearly there though🙂. keith -
no problem- some veneer i have come across just splits and cracks every which way except for the way you want it! if i decide to go with 2nd planking will find out😉 Keith
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Thanks Robert i didn't want to go to the expense of ordering a load of stripwood if the kit supplied veneer strip will be o.k. Keith
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thanks for visiting everyone -gave the hull its final sanding with the coarse sandpaper- if not bothering with 2nd planking this will be where using filler over nail holes and pva between planks and sanding with medium/ fine sandpapering would begin- still havn't decided plank or not to plank with 2nd skin, whats the planking on the kit like for cutting? also started to form the sternpost assembley (not actually fastened in place yet) take care all and keep up the good work everyone. Keith
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i have just had a thought Keith- what if the forward boats were actually mounted on that heavy sled you see in Matthew betts log? Keith
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After the elation of the lovely fitting together of the frames happy moment gone- when the transom was fitted the hole for the rudder was out of alignment and the bulwarks are a couple of millimetres short of the stem🤨- got ye old craft knife out and cut the rudder aperture wider (also had to trim a little off the deck). On the bulwarks once the glue had dried i pulled the brass pins and drilled the holes out to 1mm and inserted ye olde cocktail stick trennels trimmed to size. take care all Keith
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the problem with aluminium is it forms an oxidised layer in contact with air- this is what makes it hard to glue/ weld. before gluing or painting give it a rub down with either an abrasive rubber or very fine sandpaper/ emery cloth and paint straight away. Keith
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Ty Jeff- yep as already mentioned and shown earlier in log the billings supplied one was humungous! Pssst Emmet the seats of ease are there just below and infront of the block on the knighthead😉- hope they didn't hit a big wave when mid job😱🤢 Keith
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looks alright from here Keith😁- besides when people are viewing her they will be drawn to the deck fittings and rigging. Keith
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TY and Yes Emmet the jeers on the yard are towards the middle and rig to the three way blocks stropped to the masthead- they along with the sling take the weight of the yard - see earlier posts for rigging main yard- and are near the trusses, Keith
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looking good emmet- i do all my sanding outside for the same reasons (means no hull construction in winter months though i am looking into fitting a woodstove in one of the outbuildings for messy sanding/spraypainting jobs during bad weather). For tapering my planks i use a small surfoam, but did use coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood for years. Keith
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thanks for views likes and comments everyone- back in the shipyard and work progressing slowly on the foreyard, got the strops on the jeer blocks finished also got the Admirals lantern in place behind the main top while looking at the bow area realised i hadn't properly rigged the fore t'gallant stays- long tackle block seized and rigged to hooked block on knighthead - tail end not permanently glued yet. take care all Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone- removed the pins and gave hull a slight sanding but not too much until transom and bulwarks have dried- still not sure about adding 2nd planking if i am most likely going to go with a painted finish. take care all Keith
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Hi Emmet- the seats of ease are a polite way of saying toilets- long drop non flushing open air type- the quarter galleries on the stern are for the ranking officers toilets and the midshipmans toilet is in the semi circular bulkhead in the bow. the gammoning for the bowsprit goes through an elongated hole you see in the bolster marked B in the diagram, and the sails tie of to the timberheads on the f'cstle. Keith
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thanks Jo, you have done a great job with the deck- i worked from the top down using brass pins which were then removed after the glue had hardened then added filler in any gaps and sanded down.i start tapering from where the frames start to narrow- on this one i started tapering from 4th frame in from the bow and terminated the top most plank around where the mizzen mast is with the sternwards taper starting just after the fullest middle frame - this allowed the next plank to start sweeping up the counter i also soak the strips for a few hours in water to stop them cracking when bent and use wood adhesive as opposed to cyano- hope this makes sense! Keith
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hmmm not good times for anyone Emmeti have heard similar stories from people im u.k. om the victory bow i see no stepped cut outs in the beak which is nice of them! the gratings actually curve upwards as they leave the bow deck- the pieces for forming the supports should be upright and at 90 degrees ton the keel there should be a side elevation in the plans but i have never built a kit from them guys so not sure which way they go around it. found this pic in an old modelling book. take care and hope things get better for you soon. Keith
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thanks for views and comments everyone- first planking now finished with stealers fitted at stern. also took delivery of two caldercraft 10 spoke ships wheels- although 1/64 scale they are 24mm across spokes so not too oversize (well spotted with the spoke count keith s). next job pull pins and get sanding. take care all Keith
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you are welcome Emmet- the above comment was for Matthew as he has never built a wooden ship before. as regards your Vic you are doing the correct thing in hesitating and thinking through because yes the main gun deck is a bugger to get into when all decks and skid beams are in place. hope you get the attention you need to get on the mend again and see her finished. Keith
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HMS Terror by DaJH - OcCre - 1:75
clearway replied to DaJH's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
welcome to the terror club- feel free to ask questions. Keith -
ah brings back memories from 23 years ago! when planking billings hulls don't follow the same method of planking as some other kits, taper the planks at bow and stern from deck level down- i ues this method and have never used filler pieces- when planking finished run white wood glue between planks then when hardened start sanding- my hms terror blog is on the planking stage and i will add a couple of pics here of finished fd10 and billings marie jeanne which has been sanded down and waiting priming. hope this helps with planking Keith
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this is why you see a lot of people (including the advise post at the start of build logs) advising against big complicated models like victory and constitution- this has taxed me at times and i have built and finished around 12 ships before this one. serious advise is to finish the framing then get a smaller kit (billings "Norden" is fairly cheap and you can practice tapering planking etc before tackling this monster hull). Then resume the victory build. Keith
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the planks are flush matthew- they are just warped a little cross wise and with the caulking gives the impression of a clinker style hull.
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looks o.k. so far Keith- i am thinking about using the point of a scriber to imitate nail indents. The chainplates look a lot better than occres (i am either going to scratchbuild the chainplates or go down same path- depends how energetic i feel at the time). Keep up the good work so far. Keith 😉
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nice one with ye olde airfix kit! someone did etched hammock netting for the airfix victory (scalelink i think) but he semi retired and someone else is doing some of his etches (mostly railway modelling side though- called fretcetra or something similar). Keith
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