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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. the wooden fittings in the middle of the main yard are thimbles for trusses - see pic regards trusses for yards on ships like victory. hope that helps, and yes been doing this for around 35 years! Keith
  2. Hi Emmet, the thread is 1mm diameter- the two fittings in the middle are actually wooden eyes that the trusses pass through to hold the yard to the mast- the blocks on the end of the yard are 5mm and 6mm- the larger blocks you see on the mizzen are 5mm and the smaller 3mm. the mainyard is 400mm long. Keith
  3. Thanks again for the kind words, likes and taking a peek. Emmett i trim the planks as needed afer removing from the water and then using thumb and fingers tease them to shape then pin and glue them to the hull using either P.V.A. or woodworking adhesive- i dont take the pins/ nails out for at least 24 hours, but if using brass nails to fasten the planks will leave them in for a few days before pulling them (hope that makes sense). Back to the beast and rigged the t'gallant cluelines and sheets, tidied some of the rigging and painted the mainyard while starting to attach some of the blocks and truss lines- put it on the laptop to show how long the main/ fore yards are (stuns'l booms not in place yet). take care all Keith
  4. maybe depends on the humidity levels where it is used- u.k. climate different to african/ aussie climate as an example.
  5. Hi Emmet- as regards bending wood i soak mine for at least 3 hours in a bath of warm water before bending (they use steam on the planks on the real ships) Keith
  6. I am using the acrylic varnish on my victory (exactly same stuff as you) and also use it on my military/ railway wagon kits with no problems- some models 10+ years with no adverse effects. To thin it you can add it to a lil ole tapwater and stir well! it is a lot quicker drying and a lot less unpleasant to use indoors. Keith
  7. just slow and steady does it- i start on the bottom at the stern and work forward and upwards- the coppering doesn't always follow the planking- is there a diagram on the destructions showing the run of the tiles? Keith
  8. Ty for the likes and comments guys- Mike i had thought of that after seeing it in your log🙂- Emmet i have had to buy or use extra strips of wood for things like the gunwales which billings didn't include- also took off cuts of timber (hawthorn) from my friend who was cutting bushes back and seasoned and cut to size. I think either cornwall model boats or the model dockyard in the u.k. do an etched replacement stern for the smaller scale models of victory.There is a pic of the 1/98 mantua kit i re-masted for a friend earlier in my blog and that would fit your space limitations. Keith
  9. ty for the nice words Mike- thought the name rang a bell (not going totally gaga yet)!- i enjoyed the build of yours even though it wasn't billings. Left the mizzen alone for a day and finished the basic main yard and progressed with main tops'l yard. also finished the caldercraft anchors i bought to replace the billings ply ones. the stuns'l boom irons arn't 100% accurate, but a lot better than billings proposed. the booms arnt fastened in yet to ease painting the yard- as an aside if building the billings victory ignore around 60% of the rigging instructions and use longridge/ lees as a reference 🧐 take care all and keep up the good work everyone. Keith
  10. ty Mike- i seem to recall you built a model of her a few year back with a build log on here? Keith
  11. glad to have helped out in some way Emmet- i do still ask myself why do i do this to myself though🤪. slowly but surely making headway with the mizen mast with the topyard lifts and the t'gallant yard tye rigged. take care all and thanks again for having a peek. Keith
  12. thankyou emmet and gieb for the comments- there is a book by c n longridge called "anatomy of nelsons ships" which is basically a step by step guide on the 1/48 victory he built which is an invaluable source of info- also james lees masting and rigging of english ships of war (picked mine up 2nd hand). Keith
  13. looking good- brings back memories of the fun i have had (and still having) with my billings victory! to be honest the cabins on the quarter deck arn't really that noticeable when the rest of the hull is finished and your effect looks better than the original- would also say yep scrap the figurehead and get the caldercraft one- i bought the sergal castings set for some of the stern decoration and agree the sergal figurehead looks way over scale. Keith
  14. Thankyou Emmet- i actually have the Nina kit myself but havn't touched it for a few years- A ship like Victory is definitely not advised as first time build- crawl before you can walk is the old adage- i built about 10 ships before starting on Victory (amongst the railway and military modelling)! Keith
  15. looking good- i would maybe drill and pin the tops of the stantions for added strength as some rigging does lead to them. keep up the good work. Keith
  16. Hello again all- thanks for views and comments everyone who has "popped by" as we say here. Work continues on the mizzen with the clewlines and sheets rigged on the topsail yard with the lifts next along with starting on the t'gallant yard. Also started work on the main yard- the bands are made from white card pva'd at the join. take care everyone- till later Keith
  17. "if in doubt ask is the engineers gospel" - if you want to know anything there are plenty of people who will answer you with a specific question. but we all had to go through the learning curve! there are plenty of books explaining the basics too- local library might have some? Keith
  18. Hi again all in these crazy times- work has had to close so a few weeks on 80% pay for me. One positive in a load of negatives is time to spend on vicky! Got the driver boom , gaff and mizzen crossjack along with topping lifts, peak and throat halliards, crossjack trusses and lifts- the thread hanging down is for the topyard tye. originally rigged the topping lift tothe mizzen chainwhale by mistake🤪- have had to use longridge and steel as references as billings had them either wrong or missing in the case of the driver boom sheet. have fun all and keep safe. Keith
  19. she is deffo looking great jesse- i never normally put flags on my models because of this very issue in getting them to look right- i envy people who seem to have the knack. Keith
  20. Hello agian- yep still here! after what feels like a lifetime (side tracked yet once more!) finally got the ratlines on the topmast in place and t'gallant shrouds along with breast and backstays and foretop stays in place. The white card helps me stop going boss eyed when rigging the ratlines😵. take care all and have fun- as an aside in a moment of lunacy bought the trumpeter 1/200 Titanic!! Keith
  21. after a log break a bit more progress! finally got fore shrouds and t'gallant shrouds rigged- next job the ratlines. as always thanks for the replies and encouragement with the build. take care all. Keith
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