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RichardG

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Everything posted by RichardG

  1. RichardG
    For those of you with a Michaels in the area, they getting rid of all their basswood, balsa, and plywood at good prices.
  2. RichardG
    I have used gilmerwood (including for holly) and would recommend them. Another couple of suppliers I have used are https://www.cookwoods.com/ and https://www.exoticlumber.com/. The availability varies from week to week. Holly is really expensive though. I assume you're looking for supplies to mill? Generally I've found Exotic Woods to be cheapest but supplies are very limited (beware of their search, it will show out of stock items). Cook Woods is usually the most expensive but do have 1/8" and 1/4" sheets. Shipping will just add to the eye-watering cost.
  3. RichardG
    That's good to hear (😜), this was on my list so I can move out of the garage and into the basement. Having a real person's opinion is better than 5-stars on a web site.
  4. RichardG
    Really nice result. Really horrible commute.
  5. RichardG
    I only know part of the answer - the blackening will not work where there is CA glue. The part must be very clean. I use acetone to clean followed by a bath in a Sparex pickling solution.
  6. RichardG
    It certainly looks good but I also noticed the price. For framing a small picture it would be fine but we would need 4 or 5 not small pieces (and some people have multiple models). Fortunately I don't expect to have a model that's worth that much. I'll keep them out of direct sunlight and hope nobody breaks the glass.
  7. RichardG
    One of the problems I find is how the heights of tools vary. For example I have a scroll saw with a table and a spindle sander also with table - about 8" higher than the saw. And while we're talking about annoyances, I have 5 power tools with 4 different sizes of dust port.
  8. RichardG
    I'm am height challenged at 5' 6" and am getting old and have back issues bending over a bench for any length of time 😀. My garage already had 2 large fixed benches when we bought the house, so that was good. However as I move towards retirement, I am building new benches. My plan is to Make a few small free standing benches (with storage underneath). This will allow for flexibility, especially when we move to a smaller home. Fairly low and not too deep. I'm expecting to sit while working a lot more. Build some "blocks" as needed to raise tools to a height that works - after using for a time. Buy a good height adjustable stool. I already built a small wheeled "cart" for my Byrnes saw, this enables me to move it out of the way when not needed. I will do the same for the thickness sander when it's purchased. My 2 cents, especially since everyone's work area is so personal. We do. Recommended reading "A Shed of One's Own" by Marcus Berkmann.
  9. RichardG
    $30 is a good price. I'm always a little wary about buying wood from Ebay or Amazon. I usually buy from a from a reputable dealer here in the US. I wish there was one close enough to visit. As to the cost for wood (and books), the prices are all over the place. The only thing I'm sure of is this stuff is not going to get cheaper in the future, so I'm stocking up when I can.
  10. RichardG
    Prof John Pryor's book Age of the Dromon That's one big expensive book (aka a Tome). If anyone's is interested in the subject, Amazon have 2 paperback copies at $47 https://www.amazon.com/Age-Brills-Paperback-Collection-dp-900420590X/dp/900420590X. This is really cheap.
  11. RichardG
    Or ask these folks - https://www.tonnelleriebaron.com/en/tools-and-techniques-of-the-cooperage/.
  12. RichardG
    Grant, thanks for this. The results are spectacular. I'm a total newbie to airbrushing. I recently purchased a model of the Occre Adler locomotive - I will be bookmarking this post for ideas.
  13. RichardG
    From the site "The next step will be to cast a 1/4 scale bronze replica and, using digital load cells and stress indicators, ram it into various hull reconstructions and other bronze pieces at a crash test facility". It'll be interesting to how much of a mark it leaves. Hopefully more than just a scratch in the paintwork!
  14. RichardG
    I know the software used here is 3rd party but a "Fork" function would be really helpful in these kinds of situations. Maybe one of the admins could request it be added.
  15. RichardG
    I really enjoyed Toni's presentation 👍
  16. RichardG
    This is a Zoom meeting.
  17. RichardG
    It's like 3D printing without the printer. Looks good.
  18. RichardG
    The pdf files are available on the Wayback Machine https://web.archive.org/web/20100415032147/http://www.modelshipwrightsdatabase.com/Articles/1022_sheet_1_model.pdf https://web.archive.org/web/20100415032917/http://www.modelshipwrightsdatabase.com/Articles/1022_sheet_2_model.pdf https://web.archive.org/web/20100415033148/http://www.modelshipwrightsdatabase.com/Articles/1056_sheet_1_model.pdf https://web.archive.org/web/20100415032939/http://www.modelshipwrightsdatabase.com/Articles/1056_sheet_2_model.pdf
  19. RichardG
    Delivered by UPS this afternoon 😀
  20. RichardG
    According to Mark Staniforth's "The Introduction and Use of Copper Sheathing - A History" they used copper between 20 and 32 ounces per square foot in the Royal Navy. If my Google search is correct, that's 22 - 19 gauge. 0.027" to 0.043", 0.69 to 1.09 mm. "In the 1927-1931 extensive restoration of Constitution the final restoration report tallied the following about the copper: You can see a video of them preparing the sheets here
  21. RichardG
    No gasping in horror from me, but I will give my thoughts. I coppered my current model and am reasonably happy with the results. This was 1/50th which helped. The underlying planking was not great and no more accurate than the copper. I think the problem with scale in terms of getting it accurate from viewing distance is valid. You would not able to see any specific nailing pattern. This is a picture of the Constitution's coppering. So although the nailing pattern disappears, the hull plates do not look smooth even when viewing from a distance. Now I need to go out and see from how far away I can see the rivets on a semi trailer 😀. The copper tape I used is 1.25 mil/31 microns which is thinner than most paper. As to weathering, I decided not to. Mainly because the rest of the model is not weathered. The bright copper is now tarnishing. So my model still looks like a model and not like a real ship, from all aspects.
  22. RichardG
    It's a dapping tool. http:// https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Dapping-Forming-Punches-Jewelry/dp/B07RQ53NJ8. As usual, the cost is all over the place.
  23. RichardG
    Ordered 😀
  24. RichardG
    That is a good deal. For the stuff we do and as a newbie, I think the patriot airbrush seems best to me (along with the TC-910) What are your thoughts Kurt?
  25. RichardG
    Good to know Kurt. It's been a while since I last visited. Now I'm vaccinated, it's time to get out more!

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