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hof00

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Everything posted by hof00

  1. hof00
    One other thing that comes to mind, When you get around to making the Channels, I found the best way for myself to get a consistent hole spacing for Deadeye Strops was to "Template" these things. If you want to have a look, my CS is on this site under HOF00. Anyway, I think I have rambled on enough for one day.... 🙂 Cheers....HOF.
  2. hof00
    Sorry, maybe to clarify, The Wood part, Channel, can also be used to secure the Deadeye Strop with a drop of CA. This should be ample to take the Shroud tension with the Strop also fixed into the Waterway. (Pins for securing the Channel can be made from Planking Pins, Drill a small hole on the Bulwark side of the Channel but not completely through. Keep the Pointy end of the Pin to mark the location on the Bulwark, remove the Channel, drill holes for the Pins, test fit and when happy, CA of wood glue or both.) Anyway, you are probably well aware of "Pinning" stuff. When I built my Mantua version the Mizzen Deadeye Strops were wound together immediately below the Deadeye and CA'd. The twisted Strop provided more contact area for the CA through the Deck. Inboard Deadeyes/Chainplates and Channels were something unique to me at the time. 🙂 Cheers....HOF.
  3. hof00
    Yup, You could insert Brass Pins in a few locations along the length of the wooden Chainplates and pin to the Bulwarks using CA. I am also assuming that the Deadeye Strops are wire? Dill holes in the Waterways to accept the Strop ends and CA. Do a "Mock-Up" with scrap "Off-Ship" and see how it goes first. Cheers....HOF.
  4. hof00
    Forgot to mention, I'll follow along with interest!! Cheers....HOF.
  5. hof00
    Very nice!! Although I have made the Mantua version, I have this kit in storage for "Someday. 🙂" How did you get on with the single POB? (The material is quite "Hefty" in thickness. Are you planning Sails or "Bare Bones?" Cheers.....HOF.
  6. hof00
    Nice!! One luxury that Amati provide over the "Partwork" is the Portlight/Stern Grab Handle PE. Enjoy the filling & sanding!! 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  7. hof00
    Hi there, Your Bismarck is looking good!! There are a few build logs for this here, some are Amati but essentially the same as the Partwork thingy. rvchima,/ted99/ianb and myself. Mine is almost finished, have a look at the build log under HOF00 Anyway, I hoe you can secure all 140 parts/issues. (Ebay or similar) Happy to offer advice/assistance. Cheers....HOF.
  8. hof00
    Looking really good!! (Nice workshop space also. 🙂) (HOF is still struggling with the Main Deck Railing but I think that my solution is working, I'll post soon also.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  9. hof00
    Hi Chap, Sorry to see this abandoned. Couldn't agree more with the two comments above so have no sage advice as it has already been said. On a positive note, I am really looking forward to your next buildf log, I hope this will be soonish!!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  10. hof00
    Hi Chap, I found no perceptible "Sheen" with Nil Varnish at all. It penetrates the thread and sets up very quickly. You only require a tiny drop for each knot. You should find that the individual Ratlines remain flexible, i.e they droop slightly between the Shrouds. I think I mentioned prior that if there's an error, you should be able to remove the offending thread twithought having to rework entire Shroud Gangs. Cheers....HOF.
  11. hof00
    No worries. A long time ago, i tried the diluted White Glee, personally, I was not happy with the result. Give the Nail Varnish a go and see what you think. (Off ship for experimentation.... And Unscented. 🙂) Cheers....HOF
  12. hof00
    Hi Chap, I use clear Nail Varnish on my Ratline knots and Siesing. (Cheap and the bottle lasts for ages.) In my mind, CA for these is just too unforgiving, not to mention the "Bulk" of the stuff when it dries. (Unscented 🙂) (Try off-ship perhaps?) If there is an error itis Faily simple to remove. Cheers....HOF.
  13. hof00
    Nice!! Seems to be a bunch of my countrymen, (New Zealanders), starting out. 🙂 It'll be interesting to look at other offerings in the future. Cheers....HOF.
  14. hof00
    Looking really good!!
  15. hof00
    Hi Chap, Good to see your posts at the very least!! I was wondering where you had got to. 🙂 Look after yourself and get someone to prescribe some Amoxicillin perhaps? Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  16. hof00
    Sorry Chap, By saying "Aft and up" I mean working from the Bow and working "Aft." 🙂 (I hope the Yards don't get in the way too much.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  17. hof00
    Looking good!! My opinion for Rigging order, and my opinion only.... Shrouds/Ratlines - Aft and up Standing Rigging - Aft and up Running Rigging Pendants/Braces Entirely up to you.... 🙂 (More importantly, whatever works for you.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  18. hof00
    Hi Ian, Not such a wonderful fit at all. Should be relatively easy to rectify? Cheers....HOF.
  19. hof00
    Hi Targa, I have the many Stanchions, double/single, easy to space and drill, but, having pre-painted, all the tny holes are partially clogged. I don't have a drill bit small enough and a pin is too large. So, out of sheer frustration I made the Eduard order, for Trumpeter but should be fine for Amati, same length, etc. The Hull is about 2.5m both sides inc. so how many sheets? I don't know. Enough for 2.5m? I guess I'll see when it arrives. (Apologies for hijacking your thread, Ian.) Cheers and Regards, Harry. .
  20. hof00
    Nice one Ian!! I'll be following your build with interest. (Ps. I'm still struggling with the Main Deck Rail Stanchions and provided "Thread." I have ordered the Eduard 1/200 Chain Link Railing from Super Hobby out of sheer frustration. The photos of this stuff look good anyway. I will post my experiences when I receive this in two - four weeks, hopefully....) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  21. hof00
    Thanks Ken, Yup, I hear you!! 🙂 I have my Pin-Vise.... I feel that I have better control and the holes are only about 1.0 - 2.0mm deep. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  22. hof00
    Thank Ian, A 0.5mm drill should cut it, I'm thinking I'll need a few more Drill Bits perhaps.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  23. hof00
    Hi targa4403,, No, no indications on the Deck, this is a pre-production Amati "Subscription" thing. There was a paper template. that was laid over the ship prior to installing the Deck veneer. I am finding it almost impossible to find the pencil "Tick" marks. It is my understanding that the Amati Production version has marks on the Deck veneer. So, the best that I can do at this stage is to use my Dividers.... (The Template is long gone....) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  24. hof00
    Hi Ian, Yup!! I am, the Aber Railing looked good but the Stanchion spacing was just "Out to lunch!!" (For instance. from the Hawse Holes to the end of Decking at the Bow is 50.0mm There are six Stanchions that occupy this space, two "Double" and four "Single" in between, so 50.0mm divided by four - 12.5mm) I have decided on a default spacing of 10.0mm but there are places along the length of the Deck where this will change, Fairleads, Cleats. etc. I'll space and "Pilot" with my trusty Dividers. (Set Type Dividers??) That's the plan anyway. I'll be drilling lots of small holes.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  25. hof00
    Very small update: I'm still here and so is the Bismarck. I'll be pre-painting the Rail Stanchions shortly for the Main Deck. (The PE Railing that I purchased was not suitable at all.... I thought I was going to make my life less complicated, but I should have known better. 🙂) Anyway, I now have to mark-out and drill a couple of hundred holes for the individual Stanchions. (Needs must I guess. 🙂) I hope to have something "Positive" in the next few days. Cheers....HOF.

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