Louie da fly

Beautiful work (as usual), Greg. I love your 20th century warships; even though it's not something I'd want to do I can recognise quality work when I see it and be impressed by it.

Steven

https://news.err.ee/1609172593/europe-s-oldest-compass-found-in-lootsi-wreck-even-older-cog-still-underground

More information in links at the bottom of the article.

Allanyed, I'm attaching (my own) translation of the article that appeared in Archaeonautica, but looking more carefully at the cross sections in Part 6 I may have been misled by the midships cross-section to think the wale lined up with the main deck throughout the length of the ship. Further inspection reveals that the wale is by no means present in all the sections level with the main - by which I mean the middle deck - between the orlop and the upper deck as shown in Fig. 50 (Cross-section at floor timber W70).

To help with interpretation of the drawings, note that the partial sections (all of the ship that survived, unfortunately) are of the vessel as she was found - lying on her port side, so the keel is on the right of each section.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention - I'm planning to tackle Lomellina as my next build, so I don't want to get it wrong.  

Steven

Archaeonautica Lomellina article - English.pdf

These will support the ship, but won't fix it firmly to the base - it's only held by gravity so it it could still tip over. You'll need to decide whether that's enough for you or whether you want to ensure that it's impossible for the ship to tip over and come off the base if jolted.

Steven 

6 hours ago, woodrat said:

Bit unfair to non Aussies.

Yes, I could have explained it in my previous post, but it was more fun to keep them in suspenders for awhile . . .

Steven

Is that where you keep the jousting sticks?

Steven

Very impressive! It wasn't till I saw that photo that the 1:25 scale sank in . . .

Where do you find the room for all these models?

Steven

More planking.

Steven

I don't know about other ships, but I do know that the main wale on the Lomellina (sank 1516, probably built 1503) was exactly in line with the main deck. But my understanding is that wales were effectively just thicker, heavier strakes, so other strakes would be placed in line with them.

Steven

On 11/21/2023 at 4:25 AM, Roger Pellett said:

 Your customer should be pleased.

They'd better be! Much more work in this model than $200 worth!

On 11/21/2023 at 4:25 AM, Roger Pellett said:

 In addition you should qualify for the MSW Time Traveler Award.  San Marco Ship- Titanic 800+- years apart.

Oh, no. Woodrat beats me hands down. From 1600 B.C.E. Mycenaean galley to 1440 C.E. carrack/nao - that's over 3000 years - still more if we include his 18th century Gros Ventre. But I think I can claim the widest chronological gap for two builds going on simultaneously.

Steven

1 hour ago, Glen McGuire said:

For the ancient Hawaiians, the traditional name for a canoe was Wa’a.

Interesting. In New Zealand, the Maori dug-out war canoe is called a Waka, and the building process (including the ceremonial and religious aspect) was very similar to that of the Hawaiians - see John Allen's fascinating build at 

You've done a beautiful job with this model. You can be justly proud of your results.

Steven

Very colourful!

Steven

Thanks everybody for the likes, and Javelin for the comment. Brand-new No. 11 blade in a craft knife.

Steven

Change of plan. The decks are to be made of card, and apart from areas where they are open underneath, each will be supported by a layer of sheet wood, as thick as the distance between the decks. And the windows/portholes/whatever between decks will be cut into card and glued onto the sides of these layers of wood. The edges of the layers painted black, to suggest empty space behind the openings.

Though I'm thankful to Grandpa Phil for suggesting clear primer, I decided to go with white enamel instead, so all the "white" bits will match in colour.

I did a test piece first: The enamel (Revell tiny tin) turned out to do the same job of stiffening as the primer probably does - nice clean cuts. Reverse side with the openings marked out in pencil:

And the "face" side:

Here are the first two pieces:

And all the components:

Hull painted black, and the edges of the "tweendecks" structures painted white where they can be seen (except at the break of the forecastle - I'm going to try gluing card onto that face and see how that turns out. Note that the forecastle and poop actually weren't that high - the extra height was made up by bulwarks, but I've oversimplified the build (also I hadn't realised about the bulwarks till too late ).

A little tidying up needing to be done, but overall I'm pretty happy with how it's going now.

Oh, and the funnels (started with dowel and shaved it down to oval shape).  Paint drying. Once that's complete I'll paint the characteristic black "hoops" at the top.

Steven

Magnificent work, Gusar!

Steven

And here's another one - The Britannic under construction in 1914

This site - https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=the olympic %2C titanic and britannic fan site - contains some Titanic pics I hadn't seen before. Regarding the shape of the stern, the one below is, I think, particularly instructive.

Steven

Nice to see you back again, hlipplaa. 

Steven

3 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

make sure you seal the card on both sides prior to cutting.  

Thanks. How is that done?

Steven

Very good idea with the brass pin. I've certainly come across the same problem with things breaking off, and I ended up pinning items like this in place.

Steven 

Sounds good. This kind of information is usually confined to archaeologists - to see it in a model would be of great value.

Steven

Yeah, I thought of that, but there would probably be gluing problems (I haven't used plastic sheet before) so I think card would probably be more suitable.

Here are the hull and deck and intermediate (tweendecks) structures so far.

The decks themselves I made from thin sheets of walnut but unfortunately they have "cupped" and I had to resign myself to heat straightening them. Then I remembered I'd been given some very thin sheets of (maple?) from cigar boxes. Nice and flat, so I'll be using them instead.

Steven

Nice idea, mate. This would work with plastic ones, too - so no probs with clamps getting glued to the ship (well, not if you use PVA glue, anyway).

Looking good. I'm glad your bending technique is working for you. I started out that way but I kept getting burnt fingers from holding the wood in the path of the hot air - now I use a different method - I soak the piece of wood and then bend it over the barrel of a cheap soldering iron. You can get very good results that way (and don't burn your fingers - unless you happen to touch the soldering iron by mistake).

BTW I don't know if they're available in the UK but in Oz you can get tiny clothes pegs from craft shops. I even managed to luck upon a set of plastic ones (much less chance of the peg sticking to the frame).

Oh, and you asked for help with terminology - what the general public calls "ribs" are technically known as frames. Not sure about the correct name for the bench rails - are they the timbers that support the ends of the seats (known as thwarts, by the way, though in a large oared vessel such as a galley they are known as benches. No idea why the difference.)

Anyway, this is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work. And I liked your "save" for the frame that didn't line up with the others.

Steven