GuntherMT

Wasn't it just a peach trying to get those cleats tied to the shroud lines?  I absolutely hated it.  I got them on, but they were not fun.  How did you manage it?

I did the same as Jon, I glued the cleats to the shrouds and then tied them with thread.  I believe that I used a tiny drop of CA glue though.

Looking good Greg.

Your progress is amazingly fast now Frank.  Are you only showing the nails in the exposed side knees as the others will be covered by planking?

Unfortunately, the last time this gentleman logged into the forum was over a year ago, in May of 2015, so it's pretty unlikely that all these new replies will be getting responses from him.

It's too bad, his work is marvelous and I'd love to see the finished product that they went into.

Normally, attached images were shown in-message at a reduced size; you click on then and they show to fit the screen or full-sze in a "light-box" display; but for a few months now, they show in-message at the large size instead of reduced.  I can't find that this is account of my preferences or something of that sort - did the forum software change recently?

Chuck changed the preview size on the admin side. 

Thanks for the info about the ink Dave.  I'm sure that was what I ran into.

As always, your craftsmanship is beautiful, and you continue to come up with great tools to help you make everything perfect.  Fantastic.

 

Hairdryer.  Use the hairdryer to dry or form the plank while it is in the bending jig.  It speeds things up.

 

Unless you can find a hairdryer really cheap at a thrift store, consider a heat gun instead.  They can be had for less than 20 bucks on Amazon brand new, and they generate a higher temperature and get to temperature faster than a hair dryer, with less 'wind', which works great for our purposes.

I don't suggest trying to use a heat gun to dry your hair though, that might not work out so well.  

I just received my table saw from Jim and like what I see and have done with it thus far.

Here are a few comments, not necessarily critical but suggestions for improvements in the 'instruction sheets' that are part of the package.

 

4. To change blades I had to remove the table insert, then loosen the two nuts (next to the blade and at the end of the shaft). Then I turned the machine on edge to get to the blade and washers. This is not difficult but it took me a while to see how to do this.

 

One thing I have added is a simple cover for the large opening in the base. This is where saw dust came through and spread all over the counter top. The dust port does not work well unless you do that.

I'm curious as to why you needed to remove the insert to change blades?  I've changed blades multiple times and as long as I've lowered the blade via the blade adjustment first, I've never had to remove the insert to make the change.

I don't get any dust out the bottom of the saw at all in operation when attached to my shop-vac, so maybe your vacuum isn't performing well?  The only dust I have to collect after sawing is when using the carbide blade for large cuts, a lot of debris is created that doesn't drop down into the area served by the dust collection port (i.e. it remains on top of the saw).

Be *very* careful (and do some experiments on scrap) before using black ink.  It soaks into the wood and bleeds, and never stops bleeding when you apply other stuff over it (like if you plan to use a wipe on poly), and then bleeds off onto other pieces of wood.

I used ink on my wales and then spent a huge number of hours later trying to get them to stop bleeding black into everything near them, and then trying to seal them so that the ink wouldn't wipe off onto the rag and then color up the surrounding wood when I cleaned the hull.

I'll never use ink on wood again without a lot of experimentation on mock-ups first.

Great progress Frank!  As always, looks great, really looking forward to seeing it again in person, hopefully next month.

No, but it is nice if they have a link to a log or gallery behind the text so that people can go visit them if they do exist.  Your signature can really be whatever you want it to be, but there was a recent post by one of the admins that they should be kept to a reasonable size (they shouldn't be longer than an average post, and no need to use gigantic font sizes, etc.).

She's looking gorgeous.  Well done so far!

Beautiful job on the planking!

Make a test piece using the same glue on some scrap rope.  After your test piece is dry, try using a small brush with alcohol to clean off the excess glue.  Since the glue pictured is water resistant you can't just use water like you could for regular white glue or yellow wood glue.

Since it it PVA, the alcohol should clean it up.

For future rigging, I'd suggest using white glue rather than yellow, and dilute it for rigging.  If you can get the knots/rigging tight without glue, then clear matte varnish to secure it also works well for me.

Good luck.

What kind of glue, leaving what kind of stains?  Just discolored line or is it a 'shine' (from CA) that you are trying to eliminate?

If it's just a shine, then just use a matte varnish (clear) or matte medium (also clear) and it will cover the shine without any color changes.

Tip - Use matte varnish or matte medium as your glue when working with fittings/rope (or a mixture of white glue + water) and it won't be visible when it dries.

Nice job Tony.

Looking very nice!

I really need to grab this off the shelf and build it one of these days.

I didn't trust myself to get the placement right on the sweep ports (or anything else) so I filled the entire area between the bulkhead extensions from deck to the top.  MS gives you plenty of basswood, and it doesn't take a lot of time since it's not precision work (it will all be covered), and it also served to give me a solid foundation for the interior bulkhead planking.

You could try putting them in place, and then applying heat from a heat gun or hair-dryer.  When the wood cools after being heated it tends to retain the shape, which may also be why steaming is often used, in addition to the water, there is heat!

Welcome back Frank, and nice job on that mast wedge, looks very nice.

Give it a bit of time, I'm sure others will chime in after they see the question.  Not everyone reads everything on the forums every day.  

I'd certainly like to see the result of that method Henry!

Edit: Actually, I just found the set of pictures where you show that method on your build log.  Interesting, although at that small of a size I'm not sure I would do it myself.  I think it would make more sense visually to do that on blocks that were quite a bit larger on a larger scale ship.

Sort of comes back to the 'what do you think looks good' part of our hobby!

Cool.  I figured with your wood-working experience you knew what you were doing, but I felt like I should mention it just in case!

Good looking guitar piece there!

Hi Eric,

I missed the last page or so of your log, my apologies, but just caught up and read your question about rigging small blocks.  I posted a sort of 'mini-tutorial' on how I did the single blocks when rigging my cannon in my build log - don't know if it's too late or will help, but feel free to take a look:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-finished-model-shipways-scale-148/page-24#entry328294