GuntherMT

I agree completely with Chuck.  My first build in the main kit area probably got a lot more attention, and I got a lot more advice, than it might have if I was in the 'newbie' area that maybe wouldn't have been as heavily traveled.  I've also learned a huge amount by reading build logs of much more experience modelers.  

I may not be able to scratch-build an amazing ship like Dan Vadas, but darned if I don't learn a great deal about techniques and tools while watching him do it!

The beautiful work that others do made me truly stretch my abilities and try things I would have never considered when I was building the AVS, and I'm extremely grateful to everyone that I learned from on here for that.

Not much about it outside of turning as far as working it goes, but this is an interesting read on the wood - https://www.gilmerwood.com/articles_africanblackwood.php

 I'm following Bob Hunt's practicum for this build.  I haven;t even opened the kit's instruction manual as the practicum suggests to avoid the plans and kit directions unless specifically called out.  

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

I used Bob's practicum for the AVS, so I'd like to offer a word of caution.  His practicum was a very good guide that did a good job of keeping me on track and not only letting me know what to do next, but also had some great tips on different techniques he uses, but I would strongly advise that you ignore his suggestion to avoid the plans.

Learning the plans is key to this hobby, and there are many details on the plans that were just glossed over or not even mentioned in the practicum.  This isn't a criticism of the practicums, there is simply too much involved in a model ship to give detailed call-outs to every single thing you need to do, and being familiar with the plans is an excellent way to make sure you don't miss some small part/step that Bob didn't call out in his guide.

Bob also does things in a very specific way that he follows with all of his builds, that may or may not be the perfect way for you personally.  An example is his heavy use of CA glue while planking, while I prefer to use CA as little as possible in my build and not at all on the planking.  For this type of stuff it's good to be heavily into reading other build logs, and sometimes simply experiment on your own if you think you might have a better idea.  You might!

Take care, and keep on building!

Beautiful.

Can't speak for anyone else John, but I used filler on my first model, and was unhappy with the long term results (over time it discolored compared to the hull), so on the AVS I never even considered using filler, and I am perfectly happy with the results.

The only time I would consider using filler now would be after the first planking of a double planked hull, and then only if it was for some large problem that I simply couldn't fix any other way.  My preference would be to 're-do' whatever was that bad and not have the need to use filler in the first place.

I believe (correct me if I'm wrong, don't have time right now to go back through your log to confirm) that this is the first layer of a double planked hull, in which case, if the only purpose of the filler is gaps between planking, then I see no need for it, as the purpose of the first planking is to provide a nice hull form for the 2nd layer, and small gaps or cracks in the planking simply don't matter as long as it's a good surface with no major dips or rises for the 2nd layer of planking.

If you are concerned about the first planking being level, you can give it a light coat of primer, and then sand it.  The sanding of the primer coat will reveal any dips and imperfections in the layer so you can play with the 2nd planking over that area and determine if it needs sanding or filling prior to the planking (hope that makes sense).

I've no wish to quibble, but the knees, fitted as shown, would be weak. My interpretation is that we are looking at the beam closer to the viewer and the athwartships arms of the knees are hidden. As modified, the illustration shows what was standard wooden ship practice. The bolts would run horizontally through the beam and the lodging knees would interlock with the hanging knees.

Why would you feel that the knees directly under the beams, with the bolts holding them in position would be weaker than placing the knees along side the beam, and the bolts in shear now causing all of the beam weight to rest on a much smaller portion of the knee?  

The knee strength doesn't change if it's placed in either location, but the weight transfer from the beam to the knees is now much more focused, and bolts are much weaker in shear than when used longitudinally.  A bolt in shear will have approximately 60% of the tensile strength of the bolt, and that is with modern metallurgy.

While I don't doubt your knowledge of what the standard practices were on the ships of long ago, those practices were ever changing as people learned more about things and how to make them better.  My brain can't grasp how mounting the knees to the side of the beam could possibly be stronger in an way than mounting it below the beam.

Rivets imply iron or steel construction, Frank.

I think Frank mentioned that the replica ship had steel/iron in the construction.

I would caution about using Titebond II instead of original Titebond as a PVA glue for this hobby.  Titebond II is water resistant, and Titebond original is not.  If you never intend to place your model into the water, I don't see the reason for using a water resistant (or even water proof - Titebond III) glue, as if you ever make a mistake and need to de-bond your work, the glue being water resistant means you have to use chemicals of some sort rather than just water to get the glue to soften and de-bond.

Just my 2 cents.

Looking great!  I love holly for decking.

Use something that will hold the dampness against the wood - cotton or a rag, maybe paper towel, or just use some sort of applicator (squeeze bottle, syringe, eye-dropper, etc.) and just keep re-applying the water to the area you want to soften until it comes loose.  Also, some people say that alcohol works even better than water at softening up PVA, although I've never had a problem just using water applied a few drops at a time from an eye-dropper.

gosh, thats really good work.  I wish they made this model in 1-200 scale. 

How about 1/96 scale?  

http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/mpage/Products/dreadnought.html

Beautiful and precise work as always Frank.  Looking great!

Maybe "FL Hatch" is for F'ing Large Hatch.  

Beautiful.  Prior to joining MSW I had no idea that card models even existed, let alone that an amazing sailing ship model could be made with paper like this!

Thanks for sharing, she's a beauty.

Make several small sample sections of planking, and try the various finishes on it so you can see what the end result after finishing and drying.  Then decide what you think looks the best based on seeing what it actually looks like.

I'm a big fan of sample testing for finishes, especially the farther along you are on the model.  I made about 12 different 'deck' samples to test different tree-nail methods and finishes prior to actually doing anything to the real deck.

Very nice, I like your idea to use the block to form the walls around, probably a lot easier than constructing a frame (and keeping it squared up) and then planking over it like I did for my companionway.

Looking great!

Wow.  Are the clappers actually functional?  If so, how are they attached that allows them free movement?

Thanks!

John, I clean the metal, dry it off (dab it with a paper towel, it dries quite rapidly) and then use the blackener on it.

When cleaning and blackening both, I use a small paint brush with the bristles cut short to work the cleaner and then the blackener onto the metal. 

After removing from the blackener, I rinse in distilled water, and then buff it off.  If you are getting crusting, you may be leaving it in too long and getting a heavy build up?  I just brush the piece until I can see it's fully colored, then take it out, rinse and dry it.  If i need it darker, then I repeat the application, I don't just leave it in until it's super-black on the first go.  I think that's the method that gets best results with all chemical agents, I know it's the same method I used with Birchwood Casey and Blacken-It.

Looking sharp!

Are you going to share the 'tricks' you learned along the way perhaps? 

Also might depend on the type of solder, I have only used it on silver solder.

I couldn't blacken solder with it for whatever reason.

 

Zoltan

Did you clean it first?  Maybe had the flux still coating it?

PE is "Photo Etched" parts, usually brass.

One thing to consider also, is that the Byrnes sander is designed to use either 3" or 6" wide sanding belt, which is quite cheap (he sells them for $1 per pre-cut piece, but I'm sure you could just buy belts and cut them yourself for less), while the Micromark tool uses pre-made 'drums' that cost $7.50 each.

I have no idea how fast either of these will be used, but they are a consumable, and over time that difference in cost could add up.

I have no personal experience to tell, but I'd be willing to bet that the Byrnes machine is probably more precise based on everything I've read and seen about it.

The one I got and use is the "Brass, Copper, Gold and Marble Cleaner".  Not sure if one of the others would be better, this is the one I decided to try when I got the pewter black, and it seems to work fine, but you do need to actively 'brush' clean the parts, not just drop them into the cleaner and then rinse.