Ryland Craze
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Everything posted by Ryland Craze
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Very nice and clean looking. This is going to turn out to be a very good build.- 51 replies
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- Model Shipways
- norwegian sailing pram
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Your Longboat is looking good. You are heading toward the finish line. I stropped my deadeyes by forming the 24 gauge wire around the deadeye. I formed the strop so that the two ends met at the top of the deadeye. I trimmed the wire so that the two ends butted against each other. I then opened up the strop, applied some CA to the underside of the strop and squeezed the strop down into the grove in the deadeye. Be sure to insert the hook on the wire strope before you permanently close up the strope.
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Hi Ray and welcome to Model Ship World. Thank you for your service. Like you, most of us started modeling at a young age. Ask away and we will be glad to answer your questions.
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New Member Rock Harris: An Introduction
Ryland Craze replied to rock harris's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Rock and welcome to Model Ship World. I have never built a solid hull ship model so I cannot answer your question which is best to start with, a solid hull or plank on bulkhead/frame ship model. -
Floyd, I do my seizings the way my father taught me to tie flys to my fly fishing line. I found a picture that best illustrate this: I found the above image at this website: https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-sn-shopnotes/smf-sn-seizing?tmpl=%2Fsystem%2Fapp%2Ftemplates%2Fprint%2F&showPrintDialog=1 I usually do six turns of cotton thread. Here is a YouTube video link of this process: Also, John Earl has an excellent article explaining his method of seizing on his website located here: https://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html There are many ways to do this. I use watered down white glue to coat my seizings and once dry, snip the tails of the seizing line close to the loops of the seizing. I prefer not to use CA on my rigging. Rigging was very enjoyable on my model.
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Hi Jimmy and welcome to Model Ship World. You have some enjoyable hobbies and you have come to the right forum to help you build your wooden ship model skills. We are glad to have you aboard.
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Hi Dan and welcome to Model Ship World. The Lowell Dory is an excellent kit to start your journey in building wooden ship models. The other kits in the series will help you build your skills.
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Hi Rico and welcome to Model Ship World. You have built some nice models and your experience with ships and boats will help you with your future models.
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You could glue some scrap pieces of wood to the outer edges of the build board where the transom meets the build board. This would keep the transom parallel to the build board and also keep it from rocking side to side.
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I struggle using blackening agents. I used Jax at full strength and immediately rinse in water after removing from the blackening solution (usually less than 10 seconds in blackening solution). I wipe the part off and let dry, then repeat the process until I get the desired tone of black and then hope and pray the blackening does not wipe off.
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Zack, Nice start to your Pram. Before you go any further, I would do something to the stern transom supporter to get it to sit at a ninety degree angle to the build board. The stern transom should be parallel to the build board. I normally do not like modifying jigs, but I would think the transom should sit flush with the build board. Something looks off.
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The 18 and 22 gauge copper wire that I got from Michael's did not have a plastic coating on it. I did sand it with fine sand paper and soaked it in acetone prior to blackening it. I had purchased some 28 gauge wire from Model Expo many years ago that was black in color. I did a google search and found many places that sell the black annealed wire, but you would have to pay for shipping which adds to the cost.
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Floyd, I have purchased wire from Hobby Lobby and Michaels in their beading departments. You can probably find it online also.
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Hi Greg and welcome to Model Ship World. The technological advancements in CNC and 3D printing have produced some amazing results. Definitely a plus to learn this technology.
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For my thimbles, I cut the 1/16" brass tubing slightly longer than 1/16". A thimble is not needed on the horse because the block is seized to the horse. The sheet that is run through the blocks is extra long and this allows the boom to move port and starboard. I have heard of making the eye bolts the way you are doing and it definitely would be a lot stronger than forming a loop on the end of the wire, which is the way I did it. Seven eye bolts are correct.
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Hi Floyd. It sounds like you are making good progress on your Medway Longboat. I enjoyed the rigging progress. I used seven thimbles on my Medway. They were used at the following locations: One each on the two blocks at the upper part of the mast; One each for the backstay tackle; One for the peak halliard; One each at the foresail halliard and jib halliard. I made many more thimbles than the seven that I used. This way, I could pick out the best ones to use on the model. I am looking forward to seeing some pictures of your model.
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Hi Chris and welcome to Model Ship World. I had a look at your Atlantic build log and you are doing a good job building this model.
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I am glad that a recording will be made. The HRSMS meets on the second Saturday of each month, so I will miss the live presentation.
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Hi Steve and welcome to Model Ship World. The Polaris looks like a nice kit for the first time ship model builder. I look forward to seeing your build log.
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Hi Ian and welcome to Model Ship World. You will find plenty of support on this forum for whatever project you decide to do.
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Hello From A Newbe In Connecticut
Ryland Craze replied to Freebird's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Rick and welcome to Model Ship World. The Medway Longboat is an excellent kit and a lot of fun to build. Please start a build log and do not hesitate to ask questions if you need help. -
Hi Tom and welcome to Model Ship World. Please share some pictures of your Victory build and I hope you can find replacement sheets for the missing plans. I wish you the best and hope that the third back surgery will be the last.
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Congratulations of completing your Pram. You did a good job on building this model. What ship model would you like to build next based on the skills you have learned?
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Welcome to Model Ship World Glenn. Semper fi my friend.
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Hi Dave and welcome to Model Ship World. Good luck on whatever project you decide to do.
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