Ryland Craze

Lastly, forgot to mention, I do not have a small table saw to make my own  strips.  But the past 5 months, I have been talking it over with the Admiral,  and she agreed that I can order a Byrnes table saw next month! I am very excited about it!  Will I also need a planer as well? I think Chuck made a guide on how to make planks but I can't seem to find it.
 
Thanks!
 
Jeff

Glenn,
I use square stock mostly for all masts and spars. To form the rounded sections I use a simple planing jig. A lot more work, clearly. ...BUT- This allows me to precisely taper and shape the center octagonal sections on yards extant on all 17/18th- C period ships. On masts, there are also square sections where tops must rest; this is considerably easier (and much more precise) when one starts with square section stock. In some instances I've stained final wood pieces, but boxwood doesn't take stain very well if one desires a darker appearance to their masts. To overcome this problem with boxwood, I have used Fiebing's leather dye (alcohol-based) successfully; it comes in several beautiful brown shades.
 
In the attached photo you can see that I used Swiss Pear for the model's two masts; all spars were made from boxwood, painted flat black.
 
Ron
 
 

Believe me it has been a treat working with pear. The guy who cut it for me did such a precise job, the planks were all exact. He is really happy with how it came out to. Thanks for the great comments
 
Thomas it was exactly as you predicted. I tested one carronade out in the ports and it was sitting to high. I removed the tube filed into the carronade with a round file and re-soldered the tube inset into the carronade. Big difference. I will go a little bit deeper with the recess on the next ones.
Appreciate the heads up. Here are a couple before and after pics
 
Original before filing First Pic 

 
After Filing Second pic
 

Original Before Filing
 

After Filing
 

Shots taken with carronade set level with the sled
 
Thanks again, Cheers Robin ~

Congratulations on completing your Syren.  You did an excellent job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your detailed build log and it will be an excellent resource for future Syren builders.

Grant, looks great!  I just picked up this kit and the Paul Koos DVD a month ago off eBay - this is one of the nicest of the Pocher kits, though I heard the fit issues are greater than the 8C-2300.  I also have the Fiat and the Rolls Royce Torpedo Cabriolet.  I'm probably a few years from starting as I'm learning to airbrush and have a stash of kits to get my skill level up to do this justice.  By then, I'll have a good tutorial on how to build this kit judging by your excellent progress thus far

Hoss and Wally thank you both appreciate you taking the time
 
While waiting for the brass I had on order I continued on the deck fittings. Not knowing a lot about Capstan's I did a little research and got a little help from my friends and now know how at least it works. I made up the capstan pretty much as indicated in the instructions. I am going to flip the head upside down on the drum tho to give me a little more height for the companionway. Haven't detailed it at all yet either ~
 


Got the brass in I was waiting for and made up a carronade prototype. Couple pics showing the sled mounts which were made by soldering a brass tube onto a brass flat bar strip then slicing thin diagonal strips to act as sled mounts. For the carronade I just used a short piece of brass tube soldered on. I know it doesn't look perfect but It is pretty much hidden under the carronade. I couldn't use silver solder because the caseys brass black won't affect it.
Nothing cleaned up or glued on yet...
 

 
Stay the blazes home. Stay safe

Congratulations on completing your Syren.  You did an excellent job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your detailed build log and it will be an excellent resource for future Syren builders.

Its been an interesting couple of days. I managed to get one roof sanded to shape and then I added the tiles. The first row of tiles overhangs the roof slightly and touches the molding below. Other than the last tile at the end of each row, I did not reduce the tile widths. With each row, I set the the tops of the tiles to touch each other and then angled them as needed to align into a staggered pattern with the row below. Each row was sanded paper thin at the top and reduced to about a 1/64" at the bottom. Then the next row was added. I also added the molding that sits on top. The molding has the added benefit of cleaning up the edge of that last row of tiles. I will be painting the roof black and applying some weathering powder to tone down the color.

Mike

Mike,
 
Use spray cans. The parts are huge and nothing needs the fine work of spray painting. For the steel parts, you can spray different colours of grey, black, and silver from different distances and you'll get all kinds of interesting finishes. If you want rust, use putty with a little colour mixed in and then use a bristle brush to create the surface effect. These are great kits but don't get yourself down a rabbit hole for nothing. 
 
As for the big surfaces, you need to fit, prime, fare and adjust, fit, prime, adjust, fit, paint, adjust, paint, adjust, paint, paint again, paint again, paint again, compound (don't get close to the edges), polish, polish, polish, polish (from 2000 up to 8000 grit sandpaper), wax, wax again, and then final wax. Simple. 

Afternoon, 
Hope everyone is well. 
 
The build continues!
 
Started to piece together the wings and the engine area.
The engines themselves are starting to come together.
These were easy enough. 
Not too bad fit or flash wise. Some seams, I'll see if I can fill these. I do have a putty.

All of the landing gear have been painted. 
A basic Tamiya flat aluminum with Tamiya thinner. 

There are some PE pieces for all three.
I had some fun with it, see what I could do.
I find myself gaining confidence handling PE.  Not perfect, but fun. 

I finally realized I had forgotten to install support struts on both the rear landing gear. 
The fix is not seen in these pics, but has been done. 

Continuing with the "extra's", time to see what the resin gun barrels bring to the table. 
The kit supplied part is self evident. 
These should add a nice look. 

As for the yellow stripe on the bombs...…...
I am not knocking myself out on these. 
Yeah, sure I would love engineered precision, but what ya gonna do!
Found the longest, thinnest, finest brush I had and gave it a go!

Meh...…..
Looks like the bomb techs were out late at the USO the night before. 
And four feet away buried in an enclosed fuselage...…...they look perfect!   

Dinner time!
 
Tom E 
 
 
 
 

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
 
 
Its available in the top menu under Modeling Techniques as well.   There are also some discussions and topics on this same techniques page.   Browse through and enjoy.
 
I am slowly creating focused “techniques” areas on the common  subjects of ship modeling expertise.  So far two are completed.  Planking and rope making.  I have moved the more robust and educational topics on each subject along with any downloads, videos etc.  to make them easier to find.....hopefully.
 
more will follow.  Just have to decide on the next one.   
 
 
any suggestions?
 
Chuck

The starboard side of the hull has been planked.  It looks better than my last model, so I’m making progress.  The trick is to properly bend the planks.  On the aft part of the hull, two edge bends and one normal bend is required.  That makes for a weird looking plank.
 

And this plank will still need some adjustments.  Photos are attached and you can see some places where I didn’t do enough adjusting.  A lot of patience is required.
 

Congratulations on completing your Syren.  You did an excellent job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your detailed build log and it will be an excellent resource for future Syren builders.

Congratulations on completing your Syren.  You did an excellent job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your detailed build log and it will be an excellent resource for future Syren builders.

Congratulations on completing your Syren.  You did an excellent job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your detailed build log and it will be an excellent resource for future Syren builders.

Hi all,
 
Whilst in the last stages of building my Zulu from Vanguard Models, I took the opportunity to start the Fifie and get this finishing in good time so Chris can use my photos and text for the instruction book. I took a look at this kit last week, here. This will be another abridged build as I need to get the model done as quickly as I can, but you'll certainly get the gist from my photos. Whilst the Zulu was a nice simple model, this one is actually slightly simply, with a more regular hull with no sheer at the stern. The stern rake is quite shallow.
 
Like Zulu, the Fifie comes with engraved bevel lines. These are only a rough guide, but definitely saves time later by getting rid of some waste material now. I used my Dremel on 9000rpm for this.


 
 
The bulkheads are now slotted to the false keel and once the glue is set, the square insert that supports the end of the aft mast, is fitted, followed by the inner frame platform. The platform must be fitted with the 'TOP FORWARD' engraving at the top....and you guessed it, forward also! 

 
 
The fish hatch side walls are now installed. These have different length tabs and can only fit one way. Zero way to get this wrong!

 
 
Before fitting the deck, I use a sanding stick to level the top of the bulkheads at bow and stern, so they are in line with the sheer. The deck is now popped into place without glue. The outer edges lock underneath the upper bulkhead tabs. I now use glue to brush into the joints from underneath.


 
 
The hull on this is very easy and quick to fair, with the infilled blocks taking the brunt of the sanding rework. 

 
 
The pear bulwarks are 1mm thick with engravings to identify where they belong. No way you'll easily bend these around the bow without some assistance. Both front and rear of the bulwarks are soaked in hot water for about 15 to 20 mins and the excess moisture towelled off. These are then fitted to the hull with no glue, and clamps to secure them until they are completely dry. 


 
 
I could get away with a couple of lime planks that didn't need tapering, but after that, all planks working down from the bulwarks, were tapered. 




 
 
Working up from the garboard plank, I allowed the planks to more or less follow their natural flow, and then infilled with stealers.



 
 
I always take my time with first sanding so I know the second layer will flow nicely.


 
 
 
Back to the cave for more work!
 

I've done a whole series of photos for the forthcoming HMS Flirt. 
 
There is some repetition on these sheets as parts such as lower mast trees are shown on ply, although the kit will have them in wood instead. You'll notice a few quirks here with some parts added and removed from sheets. There will be two editions of this kit, with a standard kit supplied with pear, and also a Master Shipwright release with boxwood. The latter also has 3mm birch ply bulkheads and false keel, plus a number of other differences. The standard release and MS release both now have laser engraved lower decks, with the standard in 2mm Ceiba, and the MS in birch ply. 
 
I'm sure Chris will answer any questions. I'm off to finish the Fifie so I can make a start on Flirt!
 
 

I have completed installing the risers and now I will start on the thwarts.  I hope everyone has a happy and safe new year and I wish good health to you in 2020.
 

Thanks everyone for the comments and the "Likes".
 
Rich, thanks for the link to the Jax blackening agent.  I ordered the 4 ounce jar and received it very quickly.  This should last me a long time.
 
I initially painted the cap rail and did not like the color that I chose.  I stripped the paint off by scraping and sanding and will repaint it later with a different color of red.  I decided to move on to Chapter 4 and install the floor boards and the bow and stern platforms.  I felt this would be better for me as there would be no paint on the cap rails for me to mess up.  I found it easier to make a pattern out of card stock as recommended in the instructions for the platforms and then transfer it to the laser cut platforms.  This helped to locate the notches for the frames.  Here is a picture of the paper patterns that I made:
 

I used a sharp blade and small files to make the cuts on the platforms.  I also had to bevel the bottom of the platforms to sit properly on the frames.  This was a slow process for me, but I was satisfied with the fit.  Here is a picture of the bow and stern platforms with the simulated nails installed and two coats of wipe-on-poly applied:
 

And here is a picture of the platforms dry fitted to the inside of the hull:
 

 
I will be installing the risers next.  I am really enjoying this build.

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  I finally finished installing the simulated nails using 10LB black monofilament line.  I cut a short length of the line, dipped the end in some titebond glue and then inserted the glued end in the holes that I had previously drilled in the planks using a #77 bit.  Once finished and the glue dried, I trimmed the monofilament line close to the plank using a sharp blade.  I then gave the hull a light sanding and applied a light coat of Wipe On Poly.  Here is a picture of the line before I trimmed it.

Here is the hull with the monofilament line trimmed and a light coat of Wipe On Poly applied:

I then sanded the inside of the hull and applied Wipe On Poly.

Next up is to paint the cap rail and then install the friezes and the molding.  That will complete Chapter 3 of the instructions.

Thanks Michael and Rusty for your comments.  I am doing great now and should make a full recovery.
 
I completed the planking and it was time to remove my Longboat from the build board.  I removed the supports at the stern and the masking tape that I had used to tape the bulkheads to the build board.  I removed the fore section first and then the aft section.  A few slight twists of the build board and the Longboat was free from the build board.
 
Next came the removal of the bulkhead centers.  I used a razor saw to cut the bulkheads free.  Chuck's design made this an easy process.  I used my razor saw to cut the bulkhead at the top down to the laser cut line on both the port and starboard sides, gave the bulkhead a slight wiggle and the centers popped free.  This was an easy process and I had no issues removing the centers.
 


 
The model is now starting to look like a boat:

 

It has been awhile since I have posted on my Medway Longboat Build Log.  I thought that I would give an update on my progress.

 
In early July, I was having some chest discomfort and pains in my left arm.  After numerous tests and procedures by my cardiologist, it was determined that I needed quadruple heart bypass surgery.  This was performed on July 26th and I came home on July 31st.  Recovery was going along as planned until I started having breathing problems and light headiness.  I went back in the hospital on August 9th and they found that I had massive blood clots in my legs, groin and lungs.  I was put on blood thinner and they placed a filter just before my heart to catch any blood clots that should make their way toward my heart.  I was released on August 14th and have been getting better with each day.  I feel that I should make a complete recovery and am very lucky to be writing this post on MSW.


 

 
I have completed the planking and installation of the wales on my Longboat.  I still have some sanding to do.  I did drill the holes for the simulated nails after the installation of each plank.  I felt this was easier to do than doing it after the hull planking was completed.  I have attached some pictures of where I am on my build.
 

It has been a while since I have updated my build log.  I am about half way through the planking process.  I have only snapped two planks in the process of contouring the planks.  It was easy to make replacement planks using the excess wood on the bottom of the laser cut plank sheets.  I am finding that the planks fit much nicer now that I am beyond the first three rows of planks from the keel.  I am drilling the holes for the simulated nails when I install each plank as it seems easier to me not to miss the bulkheads below the plank with my drill bit.  Here are some pictures of my progress to date:

Thanks Michael for your comment and for the "Likes".  I have completed the lining off of the port side of the hull.  Now I can start the planking.
 

 

I have the Domanoff endless ropemaker. He has two or three ropemakers. I have the "top of the line" one that will make any kind of rope, three or four strand, cored or not, right or left hand twist.  Truth be told, I've only "played with it" thus far. I've just ordered a bunch of Gutermann Mara thread and I'll be getting more serious shortly. I would say it's a quality machine. Its well made, considering its made of plexiglas. It has a microprocessor control in the control box that is not at all intuitive. You must read  the instructions to know how to set it up and adjust it. (Adjustments are made by pushing the "emergency stop" button a certain number of times when the other controls are set in various configurations. You have to read the instruction manual to know the codes.
 
I found Alexy Domanoff a great guy to deal with. He walked me through setting mine up because I hadn't received the set up manual when i bought it  used from another fellow who never used it once. I would consider it in an entirely separate class from the Dominoff serving machine in terms of apparent construction quality. I'll find out how well it spins a lot of different sizes of rope soon. I expect to be happy with the result. I haven't heard any complaints about its performance. Nothing but good stuff.