Ryland Craze

Thank you very much. I glued the guns in place. First I drilled a hole through the front axle, pinned that with a short 0,7mm nail (so that the nail is only about 0,5mm longer than the bottom of the front wheels) and positioned the gun in place. Pressed it down until the nail in the axle marked a spot on deck and drilled a hole into the spot through the deck. Then glued a longer pin into the axle and that into the predrilled hole on deck. Positioned until it has the correct angle. Epoxy gives a lot of time for correcting the angle. Next is gluing the eyebolds.

Only small updates these time. Glued the eyebolts of the breech lines in place. Have to shape the breech lines after glu is dry. Will add the gun tackles next weekend.

Thanks for the likes and comments, they continue to provide motivation.  A little more progress has been made and I have a few pics to share to bring us up to date. 
All of the thwarts and braces have been glued in place with the exception of the one with the 'ironwork', I left that one loose in case I needed to tweak it a little when I get ready to place the mast.  I have completed the windlass and have the also have anchors made up and ready to go.

 

 

 
I also purchased the base stand from Chuck.  I really like it and it adds some 'personality' to the kit.  A couple of quick thoughts - the burl is thin and VERY brittle.  When cutting it to size be very careful or you will end up with a lot of chips.  I used a steel ruler and #11 blade but be very gentle. I made 7 or 8 passes with very light pressure.  Also, try and not get any glue on it. I did and thought I had it all cleaned off but it came back to haunt me when I applied some Wipe On.....  I also set the floor about an 1/8" below the frame. A personal thing I guess but I liked it better that making it flush.  Anyway, the result is below.
All in all it turned out pretty good and will dress up the model quite a bit.....   
 

 

 
Time to move on to the rudder, tiller, windlass bars, and the remaining little details that will help bring this to life.  Hopefully I can catch one of the next rigging kits when they come available.  
 

Thanks for the 'Likes'.
This week I worked on the steering wheel and his drum. As the wheel provided in the kit is a britannia casting, I have decided to upgrade with a wheel from Syren Shipmodel Company. It's the 15/16" (24mm) version, the smallest of the two produced by Chuck. The instructions for building the ship's wheel mini kit can be found on the internet sit.

As usual, the instructions are clear and precises with a lot of pictures.
The only change I made is to secure the jig on a piece of scrap wood using a nail.

I'm sure everything is centered and nothing moves when building the wheel.

The drum is built using two segments of wood dowel

A small brass nail is used to attach the ship's wheel to the laser-cut walnut stand.


The head of the nail will be blackened using some liver of sulphur gel.
I must also add the tiller line...
 

A lady by the name of Diane posted to our FB page looking for someone to re-home her dad's partially completed Billing Boats Norske Love. She's not looking to sell it -- just hoping that someone might like to give it a good home. She has the box and remaining materials. She lives in South Leicestershire. If interested, PM me, and I'll get the two of you in touch.
 
Here's her original post:
 
 

Its a nice stand. I got one also.

I obtained one of Syren's stands for the longboat. 
 
While I'm still finishing the rigging I've also completed the stand and six of the oars. I painted the oars red as they were on the contemporary model. 
 

 

 

 

Post 7
 
And now the stern filler blocks.  A bit rough but I think faired well enough to serve the purpose
 

Thank you guys,
@ John -  only minor use was needed, and I also wore a mask.
 
Post 72
Completing the guns. (Part 1)
The first job is to apply the Royal monograms, using Chuck's delightful little offerings.

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A small detail that is missing from the guns are the vents, quite feasible to add at 1:48 scale.
Easy enough to replicate on the long guns with a strip of brass drilled with a hole, but more difficult on the Carronades where the touch hole is in a casting atop the base rings.

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I wouldn't have attempted this freehand but it can be done using the mill with a 0.5mm micro drill.
Alternatively a small patch of 'lead' foil could be used to represent the covers to protect the touchhole.

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The blackening process is fairly slow because after each treatment tiny contaminated areas remain that require more delicate cleaning before re-dipping.

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However little by little an even finish is obtained.

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Here's a completed carronade after a light buff with a soft paintbrush.

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Once the cover is even the guns can be re dipped to intensify the depth of colour.


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Slightly darker after a further dip.

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The completed set
The next step is to mount the guns, and that's a whole new exercise in fiddly detail.
B.E.
22/02/2019
 
 
 

Excellent. Well, Chuck has a new crop of happy campers .  .  .

Got mine today as well!  🙂

Here's a PDF that might get you started...  
Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf

Hello everyone -- Just a quick post to let you all know about the progress that has been made up to today.   Below are a couple of pictures of the floor boards installed.   I used  CA on the floorboards. Even with pre-bending them they were still tough to get correct and there was no good way to clamp them.   I used templates for the front and rear to get them close to the correct shape then used sandpaper and files for the final fits. I was surprised how much material had to come off to get them low enough.
 

 

 

 
After that came the thwarts and rear seats.  They were pretty straight forward.  It was just slow going to get the right angles and fits on the seats...
 

 

 
Time to move on to the windlass and its braces.  Something to look forward to tomorrow....   🙂
 
 
 

That's great to hear! You'll love it. Thanks for the kind word but I wish I was able to follow you.
 
Thanks Ken. It was a pleasure seeing you and everyone else. Going to Chucks shop was like making a trip to the holy lands. 
 
Well I've been whacking away and need to post a lot to catch up. 
 
The rigging is mainly completed. There's a lot of line hanging all over the place though.
I need to go back and adjust all the line tension and make the rope coils.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I've also started to make the oars. 
 
Here you can see the start of the tapering to thin the blade down. Still a long way to go.
 

 
The three stages. Stock untouched, handle attached and sanded and shaped.
 

 
Finished oars ready to paint,
 

 
And the first four with their first coat of paint.
 

 
Whew that was a long one. Thanks for stopping by and all the support!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Jumbo Boom Blocks
 
One of the details I had to finish up before starting the rigging was the 30 and 50-ton “Jumbo” booms. Unlike the 5-ton booms which got their lifting power straight off of the winch, the booms used for lifting heavy loads like tanks and planes needed the extra lifting power provided by large pulleys, 5-sheave for 50-ton, and 4-sheave for the 30-ton. They were some big honkers - almost 6 feet high including the cargo hook:


 
 
Fortunately Bluejacket sells some 1/4 inch blocks that are exactly what I needed for shape, height and length:

 
The only problem is that they are triple blocks so I needed to modify them to get them right for this build. I started by sanding off the stropping on one side for the 4-holers and both sides for the 5-holers. Then I used my punch set to make sheave discs from sheet plastic of the right thickness:

After gluing on the discs I covered them with oversized sheet plastic:

 
The plastic was then trimmed and sanded to match the original shape. The 4-holers needed to have the lifting eye cut off and new ones added to the “new” centerline, all of them had new stropping to replace what was removed, and half of them had beckets added (the starting point for rigging a set of blocks):

After painting these should do the trick:

I didn't do much yesterday...concentrated on putting some of the basic assemblies together.   I also did more sanding to the joints on the boiler,  getting them to the point that they aren't so noticeable.   firstly......for you Ken,  the options for the couplers the civil war and the post civil war styles.


the cylinder & valve chests could be assembled and painted as a unit.   the front covers are a different color,  but I can easily mask them off.  there is a left and right.........not too tough to do.


again.......as will be the case for the entire build,  there was a lot of sanding to get rid of the flash and flared edges....there is some mold puckering too,  but unless I want to go nutz with the filler,  they shouldn't impact the model too much if brought down with sanding.  I was browsing through pictures of the actual loco,  and of the model online.   amazed with the different takes of her.......some looked as if there wasn't a lot of painting {just detailing},  and some that went with an entirely different look.   I saw one as a Christmas train that really looked nice     some left the gray/white plastics show......some blacks and greens.....especially concerning the truck frames and equalizers { I liked that}.  there was another that was done in what looked like a metal flake blue and gold,  that looked really nice too.  I was going to add more to the boiler and noticed that the side boards on the boiler has wood grain detail to them....so does the floor in the cab.   dark brown appears to be the answer here,  but I'll see how others painted these parts.  the parts for the front pony frame was brought together,  and cleaned up for the next bit of assembly.   I'll try to keep the wheels ability to turn in mind.   I did make one mistake with this assembly,  and that pertained with the springs and shackles.   I cemented the inner half to the outer side of the equalizers,  without thinking that they also need to wrap around the frame too.   the equalizers are a two part assembly,  and they need to wrap around the frame



when I realized the problem I created,  I cut between the shackle and frame it was cemented to.........thankfully,  they hadn't fully cured.   this might not be seen on the finished model,  but I think if I were to cut thin slivers of sprue to fit between the shackles,  it will solve the problem.   unlike the tender trucks,  the axles must be put in place when adding the equalizers.......the opposite side must be done in it's two piece form,  since the equalizer shackles must wrap around the frame.

the outer side was added to the opposite side,  making sure that cement doesn't touch the axles.


....and unlike the tender trucks,  this one was designed to pivot {note the stem in the middle}.

the wheels are to be cemented on the outside of the truck,  rather than trapped inside,  like the tender trucks.  I looked into making the tender trucks pivot....sad to say I may not be able to do it.  dummy me cemented in the top plates and king pin plates.......and of course I had to make them nigh impossible to remove without damaging them.  it doesn't look good for the pivot.     I did make one small contribution so far though on the fire box door.  the handle for the door looked thick and squared when placed in the opening.  I sculpted out the handle so it has is thinner and has sort of a hook to it.  it looks like a handle now,  rather than a thick plastic appendage.

gett'in ready to do some painting   

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.
 

 

 

Looks great!  It’s nice to see the run of the planks there isn’t it?

Sorry to hear that Jesse.  It's never easy losing people that made a difference in our lives, no mater how short the relationship.

First step painting...
 

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.
 

 

 

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.
 

 

 

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.
 

 

 

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.