Ryland Craze

In between other projects, I try to squeeze in a little time on this build.  I added a few more details, including the searchlight (not included in the kit for some reason) and these vertical tubes along the hull sides.  Google translate on the Mara book suggests these are ash chutes, so I guess a way of disposing waste from the ship's engine?  Since I'm at the point where it's not worth the risk of adding other more fragile details to the model (especially if I have to tape around them), I  got the linoleum deck taped up which took quite a while.
 

 

 
Last night I put on a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer and worked on main gun at the bow and the small boats.  I also starting thinking about the waterline diorama for the kit, marking out a piece of foam board for it.
 
So, this is moving along pretty quickly relative to most of my other builds despite not spending as much time on it.  Coming out pretty nicely I think.  With the experience of the first 1/700 build, I feel like I'm not getting stuck as much or breaking things off in mishandling the model as I did on the destroyer.
 
Thanks for looking in!

I'm on the home stretch with this build.  Managed to add some other details including the wood slats in the rack near the funnels (used some cherry veneer I had, cut into thin strips and used wipe-on poly), then weathered and added the final clear coat last night.  Will add the torpedos and carts, the small boats, and figures, and then rig the model and add flags.  For my first 1/350 plastic ship model, I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
As a little preview, given how fast and sleek the Shimakaze was, ever since I got the kit, I thought presenting the ship in a waterline setting would really show it off.  So, I built a waterline diorama base for the model as well.  It's made of foam board using the crinkled aluminum foil technique.  I built the frame for the diorama using balsa strips that I got from National Balsa in the thickness I needed, that I cut to size and stained.  I first practiced making a waterline diorama for my 1/700 destroyer, which is just about done, and can post pictures of it in the next couple of days.  This one obviously is a little bigger but so far so good.  
 
 
 
 
Thanks for looking in!
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
@  Bug, -  I tend to just use hand held on auto macro settings sometimes with flash or supplementary lighting. As long as they sufficiently impart what I’m trying to get over it’s good enough for me for general w-i-p photos.
 
@ David, - thanks for looking in,  and for the link, interesting stuff. In the case of the Sphinx build, painting of the topsides and other areas will take place over several weeks with additional touch -ins subsequently. For that reason, I have decanted the mix into a small paint pot. The transom decoration is pre-printed ‘borrowed’ from Chuck’s Winchelsea build. My artistic talents are unfortunately not up to recreating that level of decoration by hand.
 
@ Ron, - unfortunately the cook has run and the Purser is thought to be ashore arguing with the Victualling Board rep.
 
@ Glenn, -  it was kind of Chuck to  modify the Upper counter frieze with the Sphinx name, a much better representation than I achieved.
Just held on with double sided tape at present but I will eventually use a smear of pva. It will eventually be fitted in conjunction with the top and bottom rails.
I do have several sets printed off to allow for any cock-ups.
For the colour I just played around with the basic formula  for creating a Turquoise shade  tending towards the blue spectrum rather than the green.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi

Okay that makes sense, thanks!

I went ahead and chamfered the stem and stern, trying to be a bit more subtle.



I found it very difficult to keep the flat faces square while sanding, even when using the technique shown in the instructions. Keeping an even pressure on the piece while sanding is something I need to practice! It turned out okay though, and they look more-or-less vertical. I did also have trouble glueing the transom on - It fell off a few times before the glue dried, and I think that the residue on the pieces dried into a smooth surface which made further gluing attempts difficult. In the end I had to use superglue which is why it looks a little messy, but I can sand off the excess once it's dried.

I also didn't get the holes on the transom and stern cleat quite aligned. I used toothpicks to try and align them, but I guess they didn't fit well enough. It's not too much of a problem as it's very difficult to see, and will be even harder to see once the rope is through it. Worse case scenario I can drill it out suppose?

It looks much worse in this picture than in person.
 
Here it is so far. It's currently sitting on the windowsill having the bottom shaped as my workstation is actually in front of my PC so I have to pack everything up when I'm done for the day 😅 This works fine when doing plastic models, but I've noticed my keyboard starts playing up after working on this until I blast it with an air duster. I can only assume the wood dust is getting at it... Might have to start putting a sheet over it!

 
 

Just a quick update....Today I completed the qdeck rail on the starboard side.   Uneventful and all parts were laser cut.
 
I will detail the step by step.  All Parts are laser cut in groups.  I thought it would be easiest to build if completed in sections.  The laser cut parts for each group are labelled as such...M-1 and O-1 and L are the parts for the first section....then working your way aft you will use the parts M-2 and O-2 for the second section etc.
 
The first section of rail is the most finicky but I will try and explain.
 
The first section of rail (parts L, M-1 and O-1)  
First I glued the various parts together in the photo below.  Just like the fcastle rail,  finish the timberheads on all four sides.  Then glue the fancy curved pieces to the notched rails so after painting them black you wont see the seams.  

Once painted black, the first lower section was dry fit on the drift in the waist.  Dont glue it on yet.
 
But you will also notice in that same photo,  the longer post and short post on the qdeck sheer.  These are actually painted ahead of time and glued in position.  I found it easier to have these glued in place so the the assemble behind it can be slipped into position.  This is the other assemble we made earlier.
 

To complete this first section of the fancy rail, dry fit this section on the cap rail.  Dont glue it on yet.  
See below.  Note how the forward end connects with the lower rail on the drift.   These should look like one continuous rail.  I added some wiggle room so you can sand the aft end of the lower rail so it will be flush.   That is why you shouldnt glue any of them in yet.  Mark it with a pencil and sand the aft end until its flush and looks like one rail.  This will be easier to understand as you guys are also doing it...I understand that it is difficult to write about but you will see what I mean once you get to this step.  
 
When you get everything to fit nicely,  you can glue it all in position permanently.

Then moving aft it gets easier.  Each additional group just contains two longer uprights, the rail, and two timberheads.  
The photo below shows on of these sections already completed.  This was section 2.  Section 3 of the rail is in progress.
 

In the same photo above you will see the two longer uprights painted and glued in position.  Again,  I found it easier to complete this way.  Behind it you can see the center section with the timberheads waiting to be inserted between the two long uprights.
 
One NOTE....the longer upright in each group (in this case section 3) are different lengths.  The uprights get shorter as the work their way aft.  Make sure you glue them into position in the correct order.  Shorter ones are aft.  
 
Then add the center assembly which has been already painted.  Also make sure its facing the correct direction.   It will only fit one way.  The timberheads should be vertical and as such have angled bottoms.  Make sure each upright and timberhead are vertical and because of the angled bottoms facing the correct way.
 
The photo below shows the center inserted...
 

Continue in this fashion for all five sections of the rail.  Then the top rail can be added.  It comes in two sections. On fancy piece on the forward end and a long length of rail to the transom.  I found it easier to attach both pieces together and sand them.  Then pre aint it black.   You will have to adjust the aft end to fit against the transom stern frame.
 
Also note the fixed block that sits on the cap rail against the transom.  Your rail in the fifth and final section sits on this block.  A small laser disc is glued into the slot of the fixed block.
 

This can be finicky but manageable if done a section at a time.  Its not a plastic kit so you will have tweak the angles and shift some timberheads to get them to look just right.  Remember the timberheads and uprights on this rail should be vertical.   Make sure the longer uprights are all the proper height which they should be before you put that top rail on.  You dont want a wavy top rail.  So DONT sand their lengths at all.  They are all precision laser cut to the proper lengths.  Test the top rail before gluing it on.
 


This is a task that requires that you go slow....there are a lot of things to watch out for which wouldnt make any sense at all to you if I wrote about them now.  But once you start building this rail please dont hesitate to ask me a lot of questions.
 
Any questions or comments??
 
 

A major update on mast making, and as promised, some photos and info on keeping my plane and chisels sharp.
 

 
My steel Ibex plane blade has been removed from it's two-part brass carrier assembly and securely mounted into a honing guide at the proper angle (30 degrees). The shiny, hexagonal pattern is a diamond sharpening (honing) stone that has two surfaces at 400 & 1000 "grit." This is the 1000 grit side which is the principal one I use on my finger plane and some small chisels.
 

 
Here is the arsenal for sharpening my plane blades and small chisels: a diamond honing stone, a smaller conventional two-sided sharpening stone, the honing guide and behind these a leather strop and honing compound. My favorite small finger plane sits atop the diamond stone. Note: always "rest" your block planes on their sides if you can, never on the shoe.
 

 
My plane's blade is mounted in the honing guide at the proper angle (blade protrusion where it contacts the stone surface at a flush angle and evenly across the blade's width). The diamond stone is held tightly within a heavy steel and rubber bed with thumbscrews that clamp the honing stone material with thick rubber blocks (essentially, non-slip feet); this beefy arrangement keeps your stone stationary once you begin blade honing.
 

 
This particular honing guide has the amount of extension for your blades imprinted on one side; in this instance, I've set my blade - clamped it into the guide - at 38 mm from the honing guide's face (per the ruler's measurement above). This extension will position your blade's cutting edge at the proper flush angle to the stone surface for full sharpening contact.
 
Once the blade is firmly clamped into the guide (a single thumbscrew), one simply presses down with two hands on the guide to hone the blade's cutting edge on the stone. I use a small amount of water to "slurry" the metal particles that result from the back and forth honing action. The water and the metal particles simply wipe off the stone with a rag. A Tip: if you don't use water to accomplish this necessary by-product, don't use an oil that has a lubricant in it like "3-In-1." These oils will defeat the purpose of honing since they will leave a thin film residue on the honing material and prevent good contact of your blade against the sharpening surface. Oil is messy too. Water is best in my opinion (it's is NOT a lubricant); having a fluid "slurry" also isn't necessary for the types of tools we typically use.
 
NOTE: there is an "up market" honing guide called a Veritas Mark II which is coveted by many toolheads. It's about $50-$100 for the precision guide which has a built in "blade angle setting fixture" (depending on the model); if you have a number of conventional chisels and flat plane blocks - and do a lot of wood carving and planing - it's probably worth the investment. For me, my honing guide was $14 (blue item), and the diamond stone (and its kool holder), the leather strop & compound (Schaff) were all about $50+. These work a treat for my small block planes (but not my micro chisels which have no guide, but I do employ all the other honing items noted here).
 
There are numerous informative YouTube videos on honing that are worth watching. It is absolutely a truism that the quality of one's woodworking is only as good as the sharpness of one's cutting tools!
 

 
While on the subject of useful (essential) tools, I use this simple, little plastic jig a lot when it comes to making masts and spars. I need to find the exact center of square stock so I can chuck an octagonally-planed "stick" into my small lathe, on-center (the free, rotating tailpiece). I forget where I got this handy little, inexpensive guide; should I recall I'll post it later on this thread. I use my "deadly" pointed awl (in the background on my cutting mat) to scribe two intersecting lines across the stock's corners, and on one end of the square. Where these lightly scribed lines cross, I prick a tiny hole smack in the center of the end grain and thus, form a small starter hole for the lathe's tailpiece. Believe me, if this starter hole isn't located exactly on-center, it's miserable to attempt shaping the round section from the octagon!
 

 
Here's Chris Watton's Lord Cochrane inspecting one of the new-fangled carronades on the quarterdeck of HMS Camilla. "Jolly good!" I heard him exclaim as he reminded me that the King will be pleased Camilla carries the officially-branded mark - a monogram insignia that shouts-out: "The Crown Reigns." (the crown profile and fancy script letter "R"). I'm speculating that this raised, cast mark on the weapon was to show sovereign ownership and remind everyone who was boss. 
 
I've mounted these tiny insignia to all of my visible cannon, carronades as well as the long cannon on the midship's gun deck. I used Liquitex Matte Medium Acrylic adhesive which is easily applied with the end of a toothpick. It dries transparent and isn't shiny, unlike CA, aliphatic or epoxy glues.
 

 
The monograms, laser-cut micro-beauties from SyrenShipmodels. The #72 drill (.079mm) and a toothpick to show the scale of these tiny pieces. Three sizes are available from the company's online store. In this close-up you can clearly see the (Royal) crown and "R" image (Reigns) entwined.
 

 
All lower masts test positioned for HMS Camilla. The three vertical masts have their rigging hardware and blocks pre-mounted. DO THIS BEFORE you do any standing rigging! The bowsprit is mounted but will get its stay blocks soon, but also prior to any standing rigging attempted. MSW'ers with Eagle eyes will note that she stands on a hardcover copy of "Lees." I frequently use this book - along with two others* - when I'm diving into square sailer rigging and I have questions or need a reminder of some detail I've forgotten.
 
*Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models" and SeaWatch's Swan Series, Volume IV by David Antscherl.
 

 
All three lower masts are complete with their blocks. The wooldings (rope windings along the length of the fore and main masts), were accomplished with Syren's new "Ultra" rigging rope which is a dark brown hue. It appears nearly black when contrasted to the lighter pear but on closer inspection the color is a really good approximation of "tarred" rope.
 

 
The tops, trestletrees, top supports and fish pieces (three of them) come together quite nicely once the proper flat profiles to the mast's sides are created. This is a result of the exacting manufacturing tolerances in this kit; the precision laser cutting continues to be very precise at this later building stage where the pear pattern pieces are provided to create all the masts.
 
However, as thread reader's have already noted, I set aside the kit's walnut dowels for the masts and yards into a spares box. The walnut dowels will still work for making masts but I preferred to shape my own pear stock to capture more accurate details as well as to keep the finished color of the kit's pear hardwood consistent.
 
Fashioning the masts (I've only shown the lower sections on this update - as well as the completed bowsprit) is a wood-shaping task that requires many critical steps to accomplish with any degree of accuracy. Rounds, octagons, squares, angles- all present carving and fitting challenges that are not enumerated in the kit's excellent manual. But the good news is that the kit's provided plans - multiple large sheets devoted to masting and rigging - offer very well drawn and dimensioned guides to what you'll need to accomplish with your "scratch work", but not HOW to do it.
 
To state this observation in another way: a separate and quite extensive set of detailed instructions could be created just to guide one's building of this model's masts, spars and the many intricacies of accurate and convincing square sail rigging.
 
Two suggestions come to mind for some HMS Sphinx builders who will complete her as a fully-rigged model: if available, refer to author David Antscherl's excellent Swan Series books, particularly the fourth (and final volume, IV) - or - alternatively, spend time reading through MSW's sub-forum threads and posts here under resources - "Notes, Tips, Techniques & Research."
 

 
The main mast is ready to slip into position. A rigging stay block (the deadeye) is pre-assembled, as are the eyebolts for other rigging blocks. Earlier, I mentioned shaping the bolsters; here you can clearly see the half-round section of one. These (and the thin wood battens on the upper square section) will take the force of the shroud lines and in practice would reduce the amount of chafing on these ropes as well as give them proper purchase when multiple lines overlapped around this post. The topmast(s), when completed, are dropped through the mast caps openings and secured adjacent to the bolsters and trestletree supports.
 

 
On the level: it is critical to set the proper angle on all three mast tops when one finally glues the assemblies together. Here I've lined-up the top of the main mast to be perfectly level with the ship's waterline.
 

 
When mounting the various blocks to the tops of the lower masts, I used a thumb drill to ensure there is sufficient clearance in the block's holes for rigging lines.  Regardless of the blocks one uses in rigging (in my case, aftermarket pear ones from Falkonet and also, Syren), it's a good idea to take the time and do this now and not later when you'll find it difficult to accomplish this simple task. How do I know about this seemingly insignificant step?...haha. Try to access and drill-out these tiny block openings to fit a balky line of rope when most of the standing rigging has been accomplished and is in your way!
 

 
A gulls-eye view of the Main Mast top, ready for a topmast to be dropped into place. I won't mount the safety rails (rear edges of all the tops) until all the shrouds (lower and upper) have been rigged. I usually attach safety netting to my rails too; this is considerably easier to do once most of the primary (standing) rigging is completed. The rails - and the netting - also interfere with some of the rigging processes and are prone to being damaged if they're done at too early a stage.
 

 
The completed bowsprit. With the mast making process, this assembly is the most difficult to create. It involves numerous steps to fashion both pieces (bowsprit and jiboom). The identical rope I used for the lower mast wooldings is also used here. One of the trickier steps - a seemingly innocuous one - is to properly locate the tiny cleats that will meet the gammoning lines that attach the bowsprit to the stem as well as the tiny forward cleats that keep the stays and preventer ties - open heart blocks, deadeyes, etc.- from slipping. The fairlead (just above the gammoning area) also requires precise placement for optimum arrangement of the running rigging lines. I will add all the standing rigging blocks to the bowsprit BEFORE I mount it and secure the gammoning rope. I'll use a slightly heavier, larger diameter Syren "Ultra" brown rope for this task.
 

 
When creating the bowsprit assembly, I noted that the kit only provided the "Bee" at the tip of the bowsprit; I added the "Bee Blocks." This isn't that big a deal, however the naked Bee didn't look right to me. In practice, this flat piece that guides critical standing rigging lines needed reinforcement with additional carpentry pieces to either side. Also, these Bee Block support pieces carried built-in sheaves for handling thick foremast rigging lines. I omitted adding sheaves here since they really won't be easily seen, but the bee blocks will be noticed on close inspection. A detail compromise, but what the heck, this isn't a 1:48-scale model either.
 
A separate and important personal building consideration: the plans specify the painting of tops and the corresponding carpentry to be black. This also applies to the yards (all of them) and portions of the bowsprit (per the above spec on the kit's plans). I'm not certain I'll do this to my model, although the black paint is historically accurate.
 
One argument is to stay "kosher" and go for the black which presents a quite dramatic image to one's model. On the other hand, the beautiful pear woods and the delicate lasered details look very attractive to this modeler's eyes. The satin poly-finished pear wood on the majority of the hull looks especially nice to me too - and I rationalize: "why not stick with this look with the masts and yards?" Decisions. decisions. I've got a couple weeks to think about all this and complete the masting and yards. I'm nearing the point where the "strings" need to be strung! And...I just can't wait to do hundreds of ratlines...mmmmmm
 

 
The mizzen mast has a belaying rack (ring) and I've placed the belaying pins into the holes (after drilling them out). I attached the pins with Matte adhesive so the pins don't "disappear" during the rigging process. I did the same with the belaying pins on the foc'sle bitts and mid-deck belaying rails near the belfry. None of the belaying pins need to be removed during rigging; after the termination of lines are made to these, rope coils will hang from these pins.
 
The next stage is fashioning the topmasts with some of the same techniques I've already described in earlier posts. Thanks to all the forum members who have commented on this Build thread. Much appreciated.
 
Ron
 

I'm sure you'd enjoy it. You're doing a fine job on Speedy and the Duchess feels like a natural progression. Similar skill level, but with different points of interest and challenges - no coppering but lots of decoration, for example.

I have been spending some time building the removable pit housing for the mortar pit.  This was a removable structure that protected the mortar from the weather when not in use and also provided protected storage space.  As I worked, I realized that the housing would obscure too much detail on the mortar and bed, so I decided to stop construction and move on to something else.
The boarding steps in Jeff Staudt's plans are cut from a single piece of wood, and I didn't really care much for the design, so I used my own design!
The treads are 3/64" thick boxwood and the risers are 7/64" boxwood.  The ends of the risers are cut at a 60 degree angle and the tread overhangs the riser on three sides.  Rather than try to glue the treads to the risers and get the overhangs perfect, I left the treads oversized when I glued up each step.  I then marked them to the proper length and "cut" them to size using the disk sander.  Rounding the tread corners finished the job.  There are 5 steps per side.

Installed one of the lower counters at the stern. I had to cut this piece from stock as the supplied pieces were not long enough (due to my extending the knuckles, probably). I think I may have made a mistake in extending the knuckles. I am not left with as much of a gap between the knuckles and the lower counter as is shown in the manual. However, by laying some planking material across bulkheads 14/15 and down to meet the lower counter, it looks like it will work without distortion of the planks. If there is a problem, it might be cured with a slight adjustment of the angle on the knuckles, and possibly a little shim towards bulkhead 15. At least, that's my hope. The intersection of the upper and lower counters finished pretty well and the subtle change in angle is pleasing.
 
This is turning out to be a challenging model, as promised. I am settling into it and finding relaxation in a very slow pace.
 

Just came in from snow shoveling; we got about 18" last night. Not unprecedented, but close to it. It's going to be a long process getting the driveway open. So while I'm drying off from the last stab at it, I'll do a little update on my Speedy.
 
I've been working on the cannons. I simplified it slightly. They size of these one is very small and there isn't much room between the blocks. I knew I couldn't fashion an acceptable hook small enough, connecting the blocks to the eyebolts, so I simply omitted this detail and seized the blocks directly to the eyebolts. I used contrasting seizing, so I could better see what I was doing and then coloured it black later.
 

 
The sets ready to be assembled:
 

 
In the past I've usually terminated the tackle line in a coil on the deck, but this time I wanted to try my hand at frapping. I wasn't sure how to do it, so I just gathered the line and then seized it using a separate seizing line of the same size and it worked really well.
 

 

 

 
.75mm line for the breach lines:
 

 

 
All 14 are done:
 

 
Well, it's back out to my temperamental snow blower!
 
David
 

Drilled the holes on the side of the boat and for the hawse pipe and glue on the lid.  I then installed the bulwark stanchions.  You can see that I installed the stanchions prior to gluing in the deck and water way, the reason is that I am building it with a depressed waterway to collect and channel the deck water, by sanding the sides of the deck to fit inside the stanchions.  This might not be accurate, but I wanted to see how it looked.  I also cut out the bowsprit notch.
I’m going to try and make the cap rail out of the supplied wood strips; we’ll see how that looks.

 

 

Post Sixty-five
 
A question of colour.
The time is approaching where I need to decide whether I am going to use the printed decoration on the Upper and lower counters, so kindly modified for me by Chuck.

2235(5)
The patterns were scaled to size, printed on best setting, and sealed with Artists fixative.
The ground to the printed pieces  is a pastel shade of Turquoise with elements of Blue/green.
 
 
I need to produce a paint mix that is a good match to the printed elements, and to this end I am using Vallejo acrylic paints.

2236
After a some time of trial and error I finally produced a mix that will I hope suffice.

2248(2)
The mix contains 1:1 ratio of Prussian Blue and Tan Yellow with added drops of White and Pastel Blue. Sufficient has been produced to hopefully complete the model.

2253
The only point of contact between paper and paint will be the Quarter Gallery Berthing pieces, and these have been given a preliminary coat for test purposes.

2254
Always difficult trying to represent colours on photo’s, and my eye has to be the final arbiter on the actual model.
I think I can work with this and tweak the shade as necessary.
 
One other minor paint job completed, that of the ‘brick’ base on which the stove sits.

2261
This was painted with Vallejo Hull red ( which looks brown) over-washed with a red ochre, and finished with a dry brush using Vallejo Light slate grey weathering powder.
I thought this would provide a nice contrast to the ‘iron’ stove.
 
I think it is now time to attend to the rudder and  progress the stern completion.
 
B.E.
17/01/22
 
 

some advancement; I'm preparing the lower deck, nothing is definitively fixed
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Peter, don't think I hadn't considered that! But, they'd be too small to be recognizable for this model...
 
Thanks for the castle comments. Here are a couple more photos after adding some of the trim details.
 

 
There are some barred windows that are added as well. I decided to try gluing a piece of black tissue paper to the back of these before gluing them into place. You can see the difference is makes below.
 

 

 

 
And, finally, when they were all glued into place...
 

 

 
 
And, finally, I've been working on modifying the forward most building of the castle, from the simple laser-engraved outlines of a door, to something a bit more 3D, with wood trim.
 

 
That middle piece with the cutout is my own addition, so that the door is inset from the facing woodwork.
 
 
 
As it still seemed to need some detail, I built a framework around the door panels and then painted the archway around the opening.
 
 

 

 
It may not look all straight and centered, as it hasn't been glued together yet. I just wanted to set them all up for the photo here.
 
 

Eric,
 
Thank you for your kind words about my book. I am relieved that it reached you eventually and I can only guess at the causes of the delays - Covid and Father Christmas? 
 
Best wishes,
George

I know just how you feel Bob. I'm usually with you on this but fortunately life forced a slow down on me. Now I'm learning from your fine work.

Congratulations on completing your Pram.  You did a good job on building this model and your build log will be an inspiration for other builders of this model.

And some Cats 

So he bought a jeep!

Finished!
 


 
It took a long time for me to get all of the lines in, especially because I made a lot of mistakes and had to go back and correct them.
 
I learned a lot form this model and the instructions and were really great, if felt like just the right amount of difficulty for my current level and I really  trying getting to try all of the new skills this one calls for. 
 
A few issues with this kit  :
 
- The transoms sit a bit off the building board and it is easy for them to be tilted, especially the bow transom. I used some supports for the stern transom to keep it square but I think, it would be better to have longer of wood strips  glued to building board on each side of the transom supports to be sure the transoms  stay square as the planking progresses.  My bow wound up a bit off square. 
 
- Lots of care is needed alining the planks starting at the bow as any error becomes greater as the plank angles out form the bow. The planking wound up being a compromise between the lines scribed on the transoms, the lines where the plank bevels start, and the marks on the 2 molds. I had to unglue one plank after it came out too far off. 
 
- The paper strip guide in the instructions was helpful for locating the horizontal position along the hull of the frames and supports for the thwarts, but there is no guide for positioning them vertically. I tried to use the pictures and the relation of the supports to the strakes in the pictures, but I had to unglue them and reposition 4 of  them when it was time to install the thwarts. I think it would be better to install the frames, then make and fit the thwarts, then figure out where the smaller supports need to be so the thwarts are level  so and the one around the center board sits level with the centerboard case. 
 
- I glued the tubes for the rudder grudgeons with CA glue, and they  both broke off at some point during the build. I finally used epoxy.
 
- The kit is short 4 brass nails and its was short  more after I lost some of them when they went flying as I cut them or  tried to  install them.
 
-  I needed more 0.3 mm line to seize the lines for the stays. Its a nice option in the kit. I used the 0.5 mm line, but it would have been better to raid my wife's sewing kit for some tan thread-- next time. 
 
 
Overall this model is  very good experience for someone new to all of this, and I am going to build the Lobster Smack which is the third boat in the series. I am going to spend a bit of  time cleaning up and reorganizing my work space before I start it. 
 
Thanks to everyone for all of the likes, suggestions, and encouragement!
 
 
 
 

First post of the new year, and now 21 months into the build. Began constructing the lower yard arms (5/32” dowels) basically following the instructions and using the plan. To taper the dowels, I used a poor man's lathe made from two hand drills (see photo). I cut the dowels long enough to insert the ends into the drill chuck. The end the dowel that was being tapered was secured in the drill chuck. The opposite end was allowed to rotate freely in the chuck of the other drill.  I used 1/16” strips to create the octagon shape. The strips were beveled. The gaps between strips (minor) were filled with wood filler and then sanded smooth. The sling cleats were made from 1/16" strips. I made a notch in the bottom of the strip and then cut two pieces to size and glued them to the yard. The yard arm cleats were made using a 1/32” strip. I applied a little CA to secure the cleats before shaping them. I copied WalrusGuy’s build log and installed simulated iron bands around the spar battens – it’s a nice supplemental detail. I also added the inner boom iron, positioned about 1/3 the distance from the end of the yard arm. I used 1/16” pinstripe tape for the bands and the inner boom iron. Applied a little CA to secure the cut ends of the tape. I drilled a hole in backside of each yard arm and pinned them, temporarily, to the masts. As much as I liked the natural look of the yards, I decided to paint them black, as most builders have done. The downside of painting them black is that the detailing is not as visible.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I continued making the yards. The topsail yards and topgallant yards were constructed using a 1/8” diameter dowels. Don’t forget the simulated sheaves. The royal yards are made using a 3/32” diameter dowel. Like the lower yard arms, the topsail, top gallant, and royal yards were painted black.
 

 

 

 

 
The stuns’l booms were next. I made them from a 5/64” diameter dowel. I didn’t have enough dowel to make all of the stuns’l booms (I was one short) so I had to order more from Model Expo - on back order. I stained the booms with Golden Oak. Note, l didn’t bother to give the inboard ends of the booms an octagonal shape.
 
Following Chuck’s instructions, the stuns’l boom irons were easier to make than I anticipated. To simulate the hinges on the boom irons I used 22 gauge wire as per the instructions. Rather than to cut and glue tiny lengths of wire, I laid the wire on the boom iron, as if I were going to solder it, and applied CA with a toothpick to adhere the wire to the brass iron. After letting the CA set for a short time, I snipped the wire at the edge of the iron with a nail clipper and filed the ends smooth. I painted the completed boom irons black with Model Color acrylic-colors paint purchased at Hobbie Lobby. This is big step completed. Next, I drilled holes at a 45 degree angle in the pinstripe tape used for the inner boom irons. Before drilling, I pierced the tape with a sewing needle to prevent the tape from getting torn up. I inserted the inner boom irons into the drilled holes and then painted them while on the yard arm - an easy way to paint them. I test fit the boom irons on the lower yards (see photos).
 

 

 

 

 
The yard arm footrope stirrups were made with 28 gauge wire, wrapped 3-times around the yard, and with the stirrup hanging from the backside of the yard. CA was applied to secure the stirrups. An eye was formed on the end of the stirrup and some sewing thread was added to simulate seizing above the eye. I completed the stirrups on the lower yards. More to follow. Stay tuned.
 

 

Completed the boom and gaff. Following the instructions, this was a fairly easy, enjoyable task. Tapering is the most time consuming part. For this, I used a battery powered drill. I cut the dowels long enough to allow for inserting them into the drill chuck. I decided to leave the boom and gaff finish natural. I applied one coat of Minwax Golden Oak. I painted over the pinstriped simulated iron bands with black paint. FYI, there’s a discrepancy on Sheet 6 - the gaff cleats should be on the side of the gaff and not on the top and underside as depicted in the plan view. The elevation view shows the cleat correctly as does the picture on Page 108 of the instructions. I fell victim to the discrepancy. It was one of those oh s__t moments. I have noticed that others have fallen victim to this discrepancy too. Also, there is another discrepancy on Sheet 6 - the elevation view shows the gaff vangs seized to the pendent block. This is not correct. The vangs are seized to the eyebolt on the bulwarks.
 

 

 
Added the 3/32” single blocks on the gaff as shown on Sheet 6. Rigged the vang pendants (.012 blk) ahead of time. Seized a I/8” double block to the eye on the gaff jaws. Blackened the beads and strung them (6 beads per parrel) on the parrel lines and seized the lines to the boom and gaff jaws.Insert 
 

 

 
Attached the gaff to the mast below the catharpins. In doing so, I realized that another bead was necessary, so I added it. The loose end of the parrel line was reeved through the jaws, tied off and secured with CA.  I set up the gaff throat halliard with a generous length of .008 tan line that I had previously seized to the 1/8” block under the main top. The loose end of the halliard is belayed to the port side pin rail. The peak halliard was next. It was rigged as per the instructions and belayed to the fife rail. With that done, I added the vangs (.008 tan).
 

 
 

 
I decided to attach the boom to the main mast before completing the gaff rigging. After seizing the parrel to the jaw, I realized that I forgot to add the foot ropes – I wanted to do them with the boom off ship. BTW, I discovered another discrepancy between the plans and the instructions: The instructions say to use .012 black line for the foot ropes but plan Sheet 6 calls out .008 black line. I decided to use .012 line to match the jib boom. I cut two, 6” lengths of .012 line --and added the foot rope knots (11 per rope) on each length. I left loose ends on the knots so that they could be adjusted and trimmed. I Seized one foot rope to the boom, adjusted each knot so that they are ¼” apart, applied CA to each knot, and cut off the loose ends. For the second rope, I tied the knots and spaced and trimmed them before seizing the rope to the boom. Completed the boom topping lifts, boom sheet, and boom sheets, and finished them off with rope coils.
 

 

 
In the instructions, at the end of the boom topping lift paragraph, it says, “Note the “leg” of .008 rigging that runs from the topping lift to the boom. It is shown on the rigging plans. This should be rigged as well.”   It is not shown on the plans. SalD’s build log picked up on this too. He notes that the line is shown on page 122 in Chapter 20 – it’s in the photo on Page 125 in my instructions. Thank you, Sal. I tried adding the “leg” but had difficulty. So, I decided to leave well enough alone and to not add the leg. I notice some other build logs have done likewise or otherwise overlooked this.
 
I had previously made flag staff chocks, so I decided to add a flag staff which was made from 1/8” dowel. I also added the flag staff halyard (0.008 tan). The flag staff halyard runs through a 3/32 single block at the end of the staff.  The free ends are tied off to a cleat on the side of the flag staff. The end of flag staff has a ball made from the head of a craft pin and painted gold. I added some rope coils at the transom.
 

 

 
One of the things that I find difficult with rigging is belaying the lines to the rails. What helps is CA glue. After the initial wrap around the belaying pin, I apply a little CA to the line. This keeps the line taut and allows for wrapping the line around the pin at the top of the rail. I apply a little CA with each pass, if necessary.
 
For the rope coils, I made a jig using Tom Lauria’s Rigging Tips: Making Scale Hanks on YouTube. I laid out an ellipse measuring ½” x 3/16”. I drilled 12 holes along the perimeter of the ellipse and inserted a common pin in each hole. I then nipped off the pins at a height of about ¼”.  I used a 1/16 drill bit for the loop. The first coil didn’t come out too well. The second was a keeper. Each subsequent coil was a challenge – some were keepers, some were throwaways. I’ll need to make many more.
 

 

 
Moved on to finishing Chapter 18 by adding the Flying jib stay (.018 blk), Jib Stay (.018 blk), Inhaul for the jib stay traveler (.008 tan), and Inhaul for the flying jib stay traveler (.008 tan).  These were done as per the instructions. The only problem I had was belaying the lines. I found it very difficult to belay the lines in the traditional under/over manner in such tight guarters. By luck, I was able to snag one pin and belay the line in the traditional manner. For the others, I simply wrapped the line around the head of the pin and glued it. I'm hoping the rope coils will hide this. Next, it's back to Chapter 19 and the staysail rigging. Stay tuned.
 

 

 

 

Hi...

a few more shots showing the deadeyes beginning rigging and hull .
Beginning the ladder rungs and belaying pins.   This is my first model with ladder rungs (or rat lines for that matter).   With my fat fingers and lack of skill, it was a trying task.   I ended up first gluing the ladder rungs to the shroud and then added the lashing lines.
 
Below is a look at the final ladder shroud.  One point to note is the ladder rungs start out like the pattern diagram cut-out, but as they goes up the mast the rungs gets more narrow than what is shown as a pattern on the cut-out.   If the shrouds hang straight from the Main Top no way can you avoid the ladder getting more narrow than the pattern on the cut-out.   One idea that I think I like is to cut the ladder rungs the exact size as on the pattern diagram cut-out.   Not only is that easier than trying to measure each rung, but this will insure the ladder rungs are the proper size.   If this is done, the shrouds will widen some up to  the futtock rung before they start getting wider as they go down toward the deck.    Next model I have that has wooden rungs on the shrouds,,,, I may give this a try and see how that looks...
 
 
 

 
 
Here is where the realists will roll their eyes...   You might note I put rigged the ladder rungs on the port shrouds.    The directions call to put them on the starboard shrouds.   I did not realize this until I has 5 or 6 runs strung.    Could not really see a reason to remove them as (other then not being true to the design) and rig them on the starboard shrouds.     In the school of "do as I say and not as I do".....   you probably should rig them on the starboard shrouds.   🙂
 

 
 
 
A few shots of the lower forestay spreader around the canon.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 A few shots of the spaghetti of lines at the mast top.    Not sure I agree with my decision, but for whatever reason I choose to use the white line for the 
main yard lift and top yard lift.   I chose the thicker tan lines for the shrouds and forestay,  and the thin tan line for the main and top braces.   As you can see at the mast top, it is getting a little crowded with lines...    Before you start your rigging, give some real thought as to what line is used where.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
And a couple shots showing progress to date...     Note on the port side I only have two belaying pins...   Not sure what happened, but after painting them, as I was taking them off the board, one fell off the paint platform.    I even saw it hit me on the way to the floor....   But after that, it was not to be found...  It is not that small, but it just vanished,,,,
 
Anyway,,, I sent a note to Model Shipway telling of my fate, and they plan to send me one.    Their replacement policy really is nice.