Ryland Craze

Thanks for the likes and nice comments.
 
Upper deck framing is now completed.
Next steps will be the waterways, port stops, bulwark planking up to the next deck clamps and then the stern framing.
I also have to start thinking/designing how much of the upper deck will be planked and how much I will leave open so the framing and lower deck can be seen.
 
ben
 
 

Here are some new options.
 
https://thenrgstore.org/collections/model-figurines

Hi Steve and welcome to Model Ship World.  I think you will find the Model Shipways Shipwright series a good introduction into wooden ship model building.  There are a lot of excellent build logs of the models in this series here on MSW.  The members and staff are here to support you in your builds.

Hi Steve and welcome to Model Ship World.  I think you will find the Model Shipways Shipwright series a good introduction into wooden ship model building.  There are a lot of excellent build logs of the models in this series here on MSW.  The members and staff are here to support you in your builds.

Moving to a new rope
 
Although Vanguard supplies good quality rigging line I still prefer to make my own on my Syren Rope Rocket. I think it gives the most realistic results, and gives me more freedom over producing my own colours and sizes of rope. In particular I'm not a fan of pure black standing rigging, much preferring shades of dark brown. Until now I've used Cordonnet cotton thread, dyeing the resulting rope with a variety of acrylic inks. For some time I've considered moving to Gutermann Mara polyester thread, having read Chuck Passaro's persuasive account. I particularly liked the fact that Mara comes in a huge range of shades, some of which make very acceptable standing and running rigging without the need for dyeing. A potential downside was the need to bake the rope in an oven to 'set' it and prevent the ends from unravelling. However I read in an early post from Chuck that he'd also used a hairdryer with good results.
 
I ordered a small quantity to try Mara for myself and was pleased with the results. Here's my first attempt at running rigging - three strands of Mara 70 producing 0.5mm rope. Possibly needs to be laid up a little tighter, but not bad for a first attempt. Incidentally, I used a hot air gun (the sort crafters use, not paint strippers!) for just a few seconds on the finished rope and that was enough to stop any tendency for the rope to unravel:

I've decided to switch to Mara and have just received my order from William Gee, a long-established UK haberdasher:

These thousands of metres will probably be enough to last several lifetimes! I've bought sizes from 120 (fine) to 30 (heavier) and in two shades, #696 for standing, and #854 for running rigging.  I haven't measured the diameters of these different threads, but #120 looks as fine as the nominal 0.1mm thread in the kit. I've tried using it to strop 2mm blocks and it looks good.
 
On to the tiller next.
 
Derek
 

I've been using my Syren Rope Rocket for several years now, and have enjoyed making my own rope from Cordonnet thread. Having read Chuck's description of Gutermann Mara I decided to give it a go. Here's my first attempt, using three strands of Mara 70 to produce 0.5mm rope. Using the oven for anything other than cooking is a capital offence in my house, so I used a hot air gun (the sort crafters use, not paint strippers!) to prevent unravelling and it seems to have worked. 

I've now tried different sizes of standing and running rigging and I'm pleased with the results - and very pleased I can leave behind the messy business of dyeing. I've now ordered a supply of #696 for standing and #854 for running rigging.
 
Thanks Chuck, for starting such a helpful thread.
 
Derek

So...spent the last couple days on the 'Capstan Redux' project.  It was my own damned fault for using Golden Oak stain.  I wasn't thinking and I knew the effect, especially after the stain dried, would be ghastly....and it was.  But, it gave me another fun problem to solve.  So, here was my brief journey using boxwood to scratch build the capstan.
 
I don't have a lathe...so the little circular sandwich pieces were a problem.  So I thought of using my Dremel sanding attachment, and create a sandwich of roughly hewn boxwood sections, then run it across sandpaper.  So I cut a bunch, drilled a hole in them, loaded them up, and TaaDaa!   😆  Worked like a charm.  
 

 

 

 

 
I made the top circular section sans hole (photos not shown) by glueing the roughly rounded section to the top of a wooden dowel, sticking it in my drill, and doing the same thing as above....then I just soaked the assembly in water to separate.
 
The cog section was easy to make using my drill press, sandwiching the section between other wood...to get consistent depth and width.
 

 
The whelps (leg-like sections of the base) were a bit difficult for me.  I decided to manually shape them by cutting a groove in the individual sections of boxwood with my table saw and using a straight razor to trim the meat.  The gap acts as a terminator to prevent the wood from splitting.
 

 

 

 
I combined together and bulk sanded the little guys using an emery board.  This was about as close as I could get to the laser cut pieces.
 

 
Then I put them all together...
 

 
And decided I would put in some bolts (nails) on the drum as a nice detail.
 

 
The two rows of boxwood chocks (yeah...these suckers are small) I created using boxwood strips cut 'cross grain' and sanding them to a point.
 

 
Then I touch up sanded to ensure the tip 'fit' in the the appropriate section I was filling, then I simply used a straight razor to slice off the end section.  This was easy and the grain runs across the width of the wood strip.  Then I touch sanded a bit for a good fit before gluing in.  This was easier than using a dowel.
 

 
The end result wasn't perfect....since the holes aren't square.  But - again, it's a minor thing and I'm sure I could remake with a perfect square hole if I'd been a bit more careful of my measurements.  
 
Final result was a pretty decent redux of the original capstan.
 

 

 
And I'll consider this a win over my original attempt using the kit sections.  But this was not the kits fault....it was mine.  The laser cut parts were easy to separate, prep and assemble, I just screwed up (badly) the staining.  So - word to the wise, don't go messing with stain unless you know what it's going to look like!!
 
Here is the final comparison.  Kit (left) and my scratch built (right).  I'm leaving it completely natural.
 

 
Moving on....
 

 
 

Almost ready for the next chapter 

Was great seeing you and your wonderful family in Kingston.   So sorry to hear you got Covid.  Get better soon!
 
Bill

Thanks Cathead and Ryland. I will order some of that tape and also try freehanding inside the hull. The tape should be very important on long straight lines I'm assuming.
 
Made a little more progress and did an experiment. I see lots of models getting treenails, and the community seems divided on using them. I was curious to try. The scale seems okay and i do like the look. 

Thanks for the kind words Gentlemen! I have put the model on the track for storage for a while and need to get on with a couple of small commitments. here is the loco finished as far as construction with the large filler valves installed
 

 

 

 

 
The tiny air pressure valve was a fiddly bit.
The hooks were a combination for brass and copper.

 
Regards Michael
 

First off, thank you for the kind encouragement Overworked724.  I am following your Syren closely; and I especially appreciate the many how-to pics.  Its nice to have a community!
 
And now this weekend's update.  Some steps forward, some back.  The good things first-
 
1) Planked the counter.  I found it easier to leave the planks long for glue-up, then trim.  I didn't put in the last lower 1.5 planks because I was concerned about the junction between the hull planking where it does that tight upright twist.  I'm trying to think of ways to make this hull planking/counter junction look even, and I am thinking I could plank the hull, smooth the ends of the planks flat straight across the lower counter, then add the last counter planks.  We'll see.
 

 
The planking looks uneven in the pic but on the ship it looks ok.   I trimmed it flush and started on the transom.
 

 
2 notes here- I purchased 4 of the Bessey 2" clamps I have seen many other models use and they work great!  Only thing I could ask for is a little less "springiness" as they can dent the basswood esp if its damp from bending but thats a quibble.  I just ordered a herd more from Acmetools for about 3$ each and well worth it.
second thing is terminology.  I was having a lot of trouble remembering Counter vs Transom, until I realized the Counter is curved and C shaped while the Transom is flat.  Memory mnemonics are the best. 
 
Following the practium I placed the lowest transom plank and cut out the window openings.  Then I remembered to paint the inside window wells black.  And finally I added more planks to the transom.  I thought it would be easier to glue each plank before cutting out the window opening.
 

 
And then while maneuvering clamps I managed to drop the model about 3 feet down onto the floor.  Clamps, chips of wood went flying.  It seemed bad.  
But not too terrible it turns out.  Some of the transom planks that I had left long broke off on the sides.  In the above pic you can one of my repairs- there is a wedge of wood on the right side between the lowest and next up plank just lateral to the window hole.  Since everything gets a second layer of planking not a big deal.  I decided to not add the windows until later as I want to make basic window frames that overlap the openings with a 4 pane window panel inset and I'm sure I will put my fingers through them at some point.  And the window holes will probly make good clamping points.
 
But I later found I had cracked the stem which is a little more difficult.  I had managed to glue the initial 3 planks to the stem and they seem to be exerting enough force to pull the gap open, and its an awkward place to clamp.  In Feldman's book his stem is actually 2 pieces not 1 like the Model Shipways version and this could be my sign to cut out the broken bit and remake the stem into 2 pieces.
 
 
That basswood has a lot of fuzz in the closeups.  You can't really see it macro.
 
So thats where I am.  Take care everyone, Cisco

Spray ! I know they are not perfect but considering the deck will be smothered in big aircraft I’m not worried. Tomorrow I’ll destroy it with fading and weathering 

So I’ve added all the metal parts now, (mainly the arrestor gear stuff), and rubbed on the lines (the Hasegawa set has dry decals which I do like but you can’t mask over them as they lift. This I have a bit more painting to go because of that. Then masked up the ship number . 

I still have quite a few guns to build, but I wanted to share what I’m doing.  These resin barrels are great!  I pretty much follow Chuck’s example.  I start by cleaning up the seems with a file.  Then I give them a light coat of matte fixative.  For weathering, I’m using oil pastels scraped into a powder.  I brush it on with a paintbrush.  It looks a little overdone, but a final coat of matte fixative tones them down.  They look to me like cast iron after that.  I also bought the 8mm belaying pins from Crafty Sailor.  These look just right to me as quoin handles.  Lastly, you can see the effect the wipe on poly has on the carriages.
Oil Pastels scraped to create a powder for weathering

Powder brushed onto the barrel.   It looks overdone before the matte fixative spray
After fixative spray.  
8mm belaying pin used for the quoin handle.  This looks better than anything I can make and seems like a good size.

The one on the left has WOP applied.  I used a brush to apply it and then wiped down any shiny spots.

Hi Steve and welcome to Model Ship World.  I think you will find the Model Shipways Shipwright series a good introduction into wooden ship model building.  There are a lot of excellent build logs of the models in this series here on MSW.  The members and staff are here to support you in your builds.

Thanks for the tip! Will definitely check it!

Hi Steve and welcome to Model Ship World.  I think you will find the Model Shipways Shipwright series a good introduction into wooden ship model building.  There are a lot of excellent build logs of the models in this series here on MSW.  The members and staff are here to support you in your builds.

Thanks, Steven, 
You and I share a love of the more Operatic and Classical repertoire. Kurt Weill worked his way into my oeuvre near the end and I was happy to welcome his amazing music. But, truth be told, give me Mozart or Richard Strauss any day!
 
Cheers from NYC,
Michael

Michael, I am impressed.
Strauss, Mozart or Handel doesn't matter or any other of composer of that classical era.
Back in 2009 a small (very small) group of the choral I sang with, went to New York to sing Mozart Reqium at Charnegie Hall under direction of John Rutter.
 
However, I do think we have a lot of hidden talents within our group.

Hi there HHH, thanks for looking in on my Bounty build, I’ve been taking a look back through your log to see what you are up to, sad to say not seen your log until now!  
Your Granado build it very good and you are doing very well at this, wouldn’t know this is your second build; my Bounty was my second build and I gave up on it for ten years 🤣. Your planking is very neat and enjoyed following through your build of the various cannons.
I’ve clicked the ‘follow’ link so I don’t miss any more of your build; guilty of not looking in often on the 1501-1750 build section, as my interests tended to be later, fixed that. 👍
 

Hi Everyone!  
 
I've been an on and off wooden ship modeler for quite some time.  I started my first model, the Benjamin Latham, about 15 years ago.  It was a really bad choice for a first model and it eventually got to a point where there were serious problems.  Life took me in a different direction for a while and I abandoned the build.  I learned a ton at that time but didn't have the time or space to continue with the project. 
 
More recently, I've come back to the craft and I'm about half-way through building the Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat model.  I'm making fewer mistakes this go around (there are still plenty) but I'm having a great time and continuing to learn as I go.  I do find the instructions from Artesania to require a lot of deciphering and guessing!  I'm going to wrap this project up (mistakes and all) in the coming weeks before diving into the Model Shipways Shipwright series.  I hope that series as well as the amazing information (that I wish I had access to 15 years ago) here on this site to provide the support and information needed to make some headway in my building skills. 
 
Best,
Steve 

One last section awaiting its ledges and the upper deck framing is completed.
 

Still working on getting the deck pieces to fit, have done a little work on the cannon and gun carriages.

Exterior planking using the “spiling” method was difficult, and there are many gaps. But I plan on filling and sanding them.
 

 
Interior planking went very smoothly.
 


Another angle of the interior planking.
 

 
Finished the interior planking. Deck pieces are not glued down yet, since they don’t fit perfectly, but working on that.