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Keith_W

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Everything posted by Keith_W

  1. Keith_W
    She's really coming together now. The last picture shows off nicely the sleek lines of this boat. Very tempting as a next build.
  2. Keith_W
    Great work, Vince. If i'm not mistaken, you would have finished the hull. What's next, masts and rigging?
  3. Keith_W
    I am only planning to apply the finish after the gunports go on. Difficult to get a secure glue joint when you are using Tung Oil, so it's better to apply the finish after all parts are glued. What finish do you plan to use?
  4. Keith_W
    That looks amazing!
  5. Keith_W
    Wombat, I am so sorry to hear that! As a doctor myself, I often find myself consoling family members who have lost loved ones. As my patient's mum told me, "children are not supposed to die before their parents, I wish that god had taken me instead". That is awful. I know that nothing I can say or do will make you feel better, so all I can advise you to do is to distract yourself. Ship modelling is a good release.
  6. Keith_W
    Welcome back! She's looking good. Although personally I would have painted the metal pieces before installing them. Are they dry fitted?
  7. Keith_W
    Welcome back. Look at that view outside your house! I am so jealous. No wonder you haven't been working on your ship. Try to spend more times indoors? For us?
  8. Keith_W
    Hmm, I am using the exact same Vallejo blue as you are, but my blue doesn't look anywhere near as attractive. The red I am using is Admiralty Paint's "Red Ochre". A bit too late for me to go and repaint all the red on my ship now
  9. Keith_W
    Lovely shade of red and blue you are using there, Mark. What paints do you use?
  10. Keith_W
    Mark, sorry to barge in on your build log. I do not agree that the railings and decorations need a ledge to accommodate them. The way you have shaped your deck would leave the railings hanging proud of the stern fascia. I believe this to be incorrect. This is a photo of the Royal William in NMM, Greenwich. I took this a couple of years ago when I was there. Study the position of the railings and compare them with each deck. You will see that they are flush with the fascia, and line up in a perfect line. This is a photo of the RW in the USNA Museum (not my photo). Again, study the position of the railings across the two decks. Also note that in neither of these models is there a ledge that stands proud off the deck for the statue to stand on. Of course, this means that the Euromodel supplied castings for the statues will need to be modified. I have a plan to modify them, but can't work on it at the moment because my model is on display at the model expo. And finally, a contemporary painting of the Royal George, once again depicting the same thing. Euromodel's plans also show the same thing. I would suggest you study your plans. I personally think your deck should be trimmed back until flush with the fascia, but that is only my humble opinion.
  11. Keith_W
    That's good Pete, because I have no idea what it is either!
  12. Keith_W
    Ulises, take a look at my Royal William build log. Fabricating a part like that is not difficult, you just need to think outside the box! Personally I wouldn't bother with aluminum, I would make a frame out of plastic and veneer over it.
  13. Keith_W
    Haven't seen you around for a while, Geoff! Are you still working on model ships? FWIW, I do have a Dremel. But I have to say - I have never used any other scroll saw besides the Dremel, so I am not speaking from any position of authority here. The Dremel seems to work OK and does what I ask of it. It does seem rather imprecise and difficult to control, but i'm not sure whether that's a problem with the tool or whether I just don't have the skills. What do you think is wrong with it, and would I benefit from upgrading to a better scroll saw?
  14. Keith_W
    I am looking forward to this build. Get started! Your audience can't wait!
  15. Keith_W
    I wouldn't call it "popular" ... compare how many Royal Williams (or even Euromodel kits) there are on MSW. Now do a count of Caldercraft Victory kits (that's what I call "popular"!). When you are done with that, do a count of Vasa's, Royal Carolines, Caldercraft Agamemnons, and Cutty Sarks. There are a total of three active RW logs and two dormant ones.
  16. Keith_W
    Thanks Kevin. I was going to take on the Caldercraft Victory, but I was persuaded by Brian the Extraordinaire not to. "Everyone is doing the Victory", he said. And a quick scan of MSW will confirm this. Not only that, but most of the Victory's here are built to a higher standard than I could ever imagine myself doing. Like yours, for example. Or Dafi's. Or Gil Middleton's. Or those countless scratch Victory's. The major downside of the Victory from my point of view is that she is fully painted. I like a combination of wood and paint, and that's what this model gives. There are but a small handful of Royal William builders here, and only one of them is ahead of me in the build, and VinceP is taking a very different path to what I am doing. It is a little scary going out on your own, with no instructions, and with only one build log to follow and PiratePete's I-I to go on (and even he did things very differently to me!). The big question is what I am going to do once I finish this model. I have fallen in love with the ship. Maybe i'll make a scratch built model of the Royal George.
  17. Keith_W
    Very nice, I will be following this one. BTW a mod might like to move this thread from "scratch build" to the kit forum.
  18. Keith_W
    By the way, you could consider using thin sheets of acetate or microscope slides to simulate the glass? It might look better than liquid glass.
  19. Keith_W
    Very nice Aydin. It will be a little difficult trying to sand the planks around those prop shafts, but I suppose that is the kit design. Good luck with it.
  20. Keith_W
    Mark, that is the neatest I have ever seen them. I was convinced that they look clumsy and I didn't want them on my ship, but after looking at your photos I realize that I was wrong. They do look great. At the hands of someone with more skill than I could ever hope of mustering, anyway.
  21. Keith_W
    Good work, Vince. Please note that the gratings need to be installed as well. I have been studying the curvature of the topmost rail, and I suspect that yours curves a little too far down to accept the gratings when it comes time to install them. From what I can tell, the top railings should be approximately at the level of the bowsprit. I am away from home at the moment so I can't check my plans, but that is what I remember.
  22. Keith_W
    Simply gorgeous, Mark. We have the opposite problem (being on the other side of the equator). Weather here is horrible.
  23. Keith_W
    Love it, Aydin. Just a question - what exactly is the difference between direct drive and reduction drive? I saw from some of the later posts that reduction drive gives "more scale speed". If so, how much faster is direct drive?
  24. Keith_W
    I have all the accessories. The most important by far are the spare blades.
  25. Keith_W
    Hi Aydin, nice progress. For gluing tricky parts I tend to use two glues - CA and epoxy (or CA and aliphatic wood glue like Titebond). The problem with CA is that it gets everywhere, as you said. So I use gel CA, which does tend to stay in place. CA is also not very strong, and is brittle. This is why I also use epoxy. Epoxy has strength, but takes time to set (even the 5 minute stuff). To glue tricky parts, I cover most of the part in epoxy. I then apply tiny beads of CA around important areas of the part. It is important not to apply too much CA, because more CA takes longer to set, and increases the danger that it might get into areas where you don't want CA. I also leave a few mm margin towards the edge of the part to minimize the risk that the CA will leach out and discolour the joint. Pick the part up with tweezers to avoid accidentally touching the glue, and place on the model. The CA will set almost immediately and work like a clamp, keeping the epoxy in place while it sets. This method works really well, try it.

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