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Everything posted by Keith_W
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I'm looking at these pictures and turning green with envy. I really should get back to work on my model, but other things have been taking up my time recently
- 652 replies
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- royal william
- euromodel
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gjdale, if you get around to fibreglassing your boat, I think most of us would appreciate detailed pictures on how you do it. I have never seen a model fibreglassed before, and I would love to know how. Keep up the great work, she looks magnificent.
- 339 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft
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She's utterly magnificent. A bit sad that this build is over now, I have enjoyed following it immensely. I hope you get started on your Yamato as soon as possible!
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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Not sure how I missed the start of this log, but i'm here now! I just LOVE that deck. I wouldn't be game to build anything that small, i'd be terrified that I can't get all the detail that I want into the build.
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Well you must be the most talented stupid person I have ever seen then!
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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It looks great though! All that hard and fiddly work paid off.
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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You AREN'T working at a snail's pace! Compared to VinceP and me, you are a rocket! You have already overtaken me in the build, despite me having a one year head start!
- 652 replies
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- royal william
- euromodel
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Truly a first class build log. Not only is your workmanship top notch, but the way you present your build is something we should all learn from as well. We live vicariously through your photos.
- 414 replies
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- riva aquarama
- amati
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Enjoying this build immensely. One question though - those strips for the deck seem to be mahogany? The real boat appears to have contrasting wood to mahogany.
- 414 replies
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- riva aquarama
- amati
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I stock 3 types of glue: - Polyvinylacrylate (PVA) glue. I stock two types - Titebond original (http://www.titebond.com.au/products/index.htm) and regular white PVA. I use Titebond the most. It works like regular PVA, but it sets much faster, stronger, and is waterproof. The downside is that it dries yellow - this is why I have the regular PVA in case I don't want it to dry yellow. - 2 part epoxy (both in slow curing and fast curing varieties). Excellent for joining dissimilar materials (e.g. metal to wood). I use the slow curing type if I have many parts I need to glue and I don't want to keep having to mix up a fresh batch. The downside is that if you apply it too thick, it will seep out and be almost impossible to clean up. If you apply too little, you won't get a good bond. - Cyanoacrylate (Superglue), and CA accelerant. I stock 2 types of CA - fast curing liquid, and fast curing gel - but I use the gel the most. The major downside of CA is it's low surface tension, which means it goes everywhere. CA gel alleviates this problem. CA gel can sometimes be slow to cure, which is why I use the accelerant spray. The brand I buy for both CA and epoxy is Bob Smith Industries: http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html Should be available in the USA. After all, it's made in the USA!
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"I also added a small ladder" You exaggerate. It is microscopic. How you can even see that thing without the aid of artificial magnification, I don't know. One of the things that makes this build amazing.
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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For me, a model that costs >1500 Euro of this quality is not much. Not when you amortize it over the years it will take you to build it and the years of pleasure it will give you afterwards. After Amati release this kit, I would like to see them offer a conversion kit so that we can build the earlier Victory - before the stern galleys were closed over.
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Did you forget to show the boxes of psychiatric medications needed to keep you sane when bending small PE parts? Thank you for removing some of the mystery. I have always wondered how it is possible to work with such small parts. Let alone glue them precisely on your model, and avoid knocking them off. How is it possible to prime and paint them without obscuring detail?
- 75 replies
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- scharnhorst
- dragon
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Wow Pat you have finally finished! How many years now?
- 517 replies
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- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Keith_W replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The first thing I did when I received each Byrnes tool was to take it to my local electrician to (1) ensure it complied with Australian standards, and (2) to have the power plug changed to an Australian one. Not that I am worried about the quality of Jim's workmanship - far from it. I need to have it certified for my home and contents insurance. And I like the convenience of not having to use an adapter. -
There have been some outstanding plastic model builds on MSW recently. I myself am too intimidated to try my hand at one. Good on you, you are a brave man! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with her!
- 75 replies
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- scharnhorst
- dragon
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Looks great. What glue are you using? It would have to be something that does not dissolve in water?
- 414 replies
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- riva aquarama
- amati
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This is what modelling is all about. Replicating detail at an eye watering scale. I'll bet that if I was in front of it, I wouldn't be able to see half the things you have done without a magnifying glass. Great work!
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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I purchased some silver solder paste, a pencil flame soldering torch, and a soldering base from a jewelry supply store. I thought - if jewelers can make all those insane little things, so can I. Well, it turns out that soldering at that scale is more of a skill than I previously thought. I AM able to make the joins, but I can't do them consistently. I have been practising but alas, the thought of making so many of them fills me with dread.
- 652 replies
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- royal william
- euromodel
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Hi Mark, I do not care for those coin thing decorations either. Your replacement looks superb. I have my own plan to replace these, but if they don't turn out I might have to find out the name of the shop you obtained these from.
- 652 replies
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- royal william
- euromodel
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