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Keith_W

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Everything posted by Keith_W

  1. Keith_W
    I think that a kit at this price should include better fittings. For a start, they could include a photoetch sheet with the following components: - gunport hinges. The standard ones supplied are dreadful. Too chunky, out of scale, and poorly molded. I would even go so far as to say they look like a bad joke. - filigree decorations for the stern. The standard fitting looks more like a coin than filigree. - rigols. The kit does not provide you with any, despite indicating a large number of rigols on the plans. Furthermore, laser parts which are supposed to fit together don't fit. Example are the laser cut bulkheads, which slot into the false keel. There is about 0.5mm play between these parts, so they need to be shimmed. This does not inspire confidence. Whilst I am enjoying my kit, we had to band together with a few others to get rshousha to make a custom run of RW gunport hinges for us, at additional cost. The RW kit is one of the most expensive on the market. It SHOULD include photoetch fittings, or at least the option to purchase them. I have a feeling that Euromodel have not updated any of their kits or introduced any new models for a very long time. They are not like Caldercraft or Victory, which are busy developing new models with great new innovations. I would hope that Euromodel believe in reinvesting in their business. The RW is a unique kit, because it is the only kit which features this particular subject. But just imagine what would happen if Amati or Panart decided to release a Royal George ...
  2. Keith_W
    Probably Amati was where the plans came from. Stunning model! Love how the frames were cut - so crisp.
  3. Keith_W
    I just found your build log. What a beautiful little boat. You said that you do not like the many colours of wood, but I quite like it. It gives your model some character.
  4. Keith_W
    Welcome, David. Have you been to the Ship Modelling Society of Victoria? There is a member who lives in Berwick. I've been to visit him
  5. Keith_W
    Amazing work. Surely the RW for everyone to aspire to. She might be able to defend herself, but she ain't going anywhere without the masts Get back to work!
  6. Keith_W
    Oops, Brian picked it up. Sorry, I had misread your handle as "Susan". Yeah I better play it safe too. In this post in my build log, I experimented with different stains. The stain that I eventually chose was a mixture of two.
  7. Keith_W
    Very nice, Susan. For those remaining little gaps in the planking ... are you planning to stain, or paint?
  8. Keith_W
    Try this - 1. Absolutely make sure your shutter plank fits. 2. Apply PVA to the side of your plank, leaving a small gap every 3-4cm. DO NOT DO THE WHOLE PLANK. Only do the front first, maybe the first 6-8cm. Have some medium cure superglue (cyanoacrylate) ready. The idea is to let the superglue hold the plank while the PVA cures. 3. Starting from the front: apply the superglue to the small gap you left on the plank. Fit the plank onto the model. Wait for the CA to cure. 4. Move backwards to the next glue gap and apply superglue and the next strip of PVA. 5. Repeat until the plank is secure. (edit) for your next model, I suggest that you place your shutter plank somewhere where it won't be visible. I always place mine below the waterline, in case I stuff it up. That way you can always go over it with filler and paint it.
  9. Keith_W
    Perhaps one of the admin of the NRG should approach the curator of a large maritime museum and talk to them about ship model preservation techniques, then write up an article for us. I would be happy to do it, but I can not represent the NRG without permission!
  10. Keith_W
    I can't wait either! I will be following this.
  11. Keith_W
    I love this. I will most definitely stay tuned.
  12. Keith_W
    Go ahead then, lower your modelling skills to match mine!
  13. Keith_W
    I think I will follow along this build as well Is it too late to add interior lighting? That will really make your boat pop out when you take the sides off.
  14. Keith_W
    Great work! Perhaps you could do a Halloween version, with blood and severed limbs everywhere
  15. Keith_W
    Don't stop now, Grant. There are still a few little ripples in the finish! I am excited with your build, I think what we are going to see is the first perfect gloss finish on MSW. At least, it WILL be perfect if you keep at it! So here's a shout of encouragement.
  16. Keith_W
    My eyes hurt, but probably not as much as yours. So much detail!
  17. Keith_W
    I'm looking forward to this one. Best of luck with your build!
  18. Keith_W
    No need to thin Admiralty paints. They perform really well straight out of the container.
  19. Keith_W
    Hi Tom, whereabouts in Australia are you located? If you are in Melbourne, I would suggest you pay a visit to Float A Boat and check out the Admiralty paint collection. These are paints which were formulated specifically for wooden ship modellers.
  20. Keith_W
    Awww, how sweet
  21. Keith_W
    Susan, those ribs are too thin to be structural. They are only there for cosmetic reasons. The shape of the boat is determined by the planking and the thwarts, which you will install much later. If you look at other build logs on MSW, you will see that nearly everybody complains that the hull "spreads" (becomes wider) after it is removed from the jig. This is NOT because of the ribs, it is just the way it is. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about this amount of spring back, as long as you make sure the ribs are firmly pushed in when you start planking.
  22. Keith_W
    Now that is just stunning. One little thing though - there is a tiny bit of orange peeling on your finish. When I was still making model cars, I used extremely fine grit sandpaper to get rid of it. Might I suggest you try this: https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/micro-mesh-reg-1500-regular-sheet-150-x-300-mm.html As you can see, grits of 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 are available. This will give you the flawless finish that your model deserves.
  23. Keith_W
    Thank you WPS for supporting this site.
  24. Keith_W
    I thought about buying a 3D printer too, Pat. But the last time I looked (a few years ago), the finest resolution of any affordable printer is unacceptably rough. And then I would have to learn how to use a CAD program. I decided it would be cheaper to pay someone to 3D print parts for me.
  25. Keith_W
    Someone on another forum brought this to my attention: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1294137530/the-first-desktop-waterjet-cutter ... it's a desktop computer controlled water cutter. Most water cutters are as large as whole rooms and cost tens of thousands of dollars, but this one fits on a rather large desk. The advantage of water cutting over laser - no burn marks, and it can cut steel. I am not sure whether this would be useful for our hobby ... water might cause ply to warp. But it certainly seems inexpensive enough for a rich hobbyist or a small manufacturer to buy one and try.

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