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BobG

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Everything posted by BobG

  1. BobG
    The KS min-tube cutter works pretty well. I like it. It scored the 1/16" tubing perfectly and I was able to break off tiny pieces for making thimbles. The problem I had though is that I can not get the edges of the pieces rounded nicely with the punch set that I have. I have a nice set of mini center punches made by Starret. I couldn't get a uniform bend around the edges so the thimble ended up lop-sided or it split. Maybe I need a punch like Chuck uses. It's also really difficult to try land hold the tiny brass pieces steady while using the punches on them. They often went flying into some unknown place in the room. Bob
  2. BobG
    This is a stunningly beautiful model. The weathering and craftsmanship on such an interesting small boat is phenomenal. I am very much drawn to small, working boats like these and I aspire to learn to do some realistic weathering. Thanks for posting this. Bob
  3. BobG
    Thanks, Dee_Dee, I'll give this stuff a try. I'm new to all this rigging and I'd rather not use CA if I can find something else that works well and sets up fairly rapidly. Bob
  4. BobG
    First of all, thank you, Ed for this excellent information. Your splices look great. I would like to try your method of making a splice since I'm struggling to making really good looking stropping on blocks and eyes in ropes etc. This is my first try at any rigging at all so I'm all eyes and ears for information. How do you finish the splice? What do you do with the section of rope once it has passed through the rope by using a needle? Is it wrapped around itself or...??? I have only seized a couple of blocks so far and I used medium viscosity CA but in the tiniest amount that I applied with a pointed dental tool. That way it holds at the spot where I apply it without any visible discoloration to the naked eye but I'm certainly open to other ideas and better, proven ways. Bob
  5. BobG
    This a very interesting model that looks great with all the weathering effects. Thanks for the review. Bob
  6. BobG
    I've seen that method used on a youtube video. The guy inserted a smaller piece of brass into the tubing and then scored before breaking it off pretty cleanly. I also just got this KS mini-tube cutter yesterday. It's just a miniature of the typical, regular sized pipe cutter. It says it is supposed to cut 1/16" to 5/8." I just tried it and it works very well on the 1/16" tubing. It wouldn't cut it all the way through since it won't clamp down that small but it did score it nicely and then you can carefully break it off by holding it close to the score line with with pliers and using another set of pliers to break it off. I'm not sure how well that would work for cutting very short pieces like those you need for thimbles though. I'll give it a try and see what I can do with them. Bob
  7. BobG
    I tried using my miter box and the saw with the most teeth that I have but it wasn't cutting it very well and I thought it was probably just dulling my saw. Is your razor saw different than the typical fine toothed, hobby saw? The tubing I was using was KS brand 1/16" brass tubing. It's pretty stiff. Is the tubing you use thinner than the regular 1/16" tubing you find in hobby stores? If so, what sizes does it come in and where do you get it? Thanks, Bob
  8. BobG
    Thanks, that was my best effort. I'm finding that all the tasks involved in rigging are very challenging for me. I hope it's because I'm new to it because I'm very, very S-L-O-W! I tried Chuck's method of making thimbles by cutting 1/16" brass tubing and then using a center punch to round the edges. I couldn't do it. I couldn't cut the tubing without squishing it and I tried several ways. Finally, I was able to get a couple of decent pieces cut by scoring the tubing with an Xacto knife and carefully bending it off but, when I tried to use the punch to round the edges, they went flying off into space. So I gave up on that method. Then I got the idea of laying the tubing down on a flat surface and filing it down to it's widest diameter which essentially opens it up in half and leaves you with a slender, U-shaped piece of brass. Then I used some round-nosed pliers to bend a section into a circle and then cut it off. Finally, I blackened the brass with Jax Blackening Solution. They are far from being as uniform and nice as what Chuck makes but they'll have to do for me. Here's a photo of the brass tubing after I filed it down and the thimbles before I blackened them. The photos are so enlarged that they look awful but, in actuality, they are so small and, when blackened and stropped, they look OK.
  9. BobG
    Stunning work...as much an artist as a modeler... Bob
  10. BobG
    I spent several hours yesterday trying different methods and glues to strop blocks for my Medway Longboat build. I did the very same thing when I finished my first block! I'm back to using some medium viscosity CA to glue the rope to the bottom and top of the blocks and then to a couple of places on the thimble where the rope goes around it. I used just small dots of the medium viscosity CA so that it doesn't soak the light colored rope and discolor it. Thin CA soaks through the rope quickly a leaves a shiny sheen. I'm thinking of using a CA kicker also to get an instant set and make the process go a bit faster. I'll try that today. The trickiest part is whipping the small section between the thimble and the block with some polyester thread. When that's done I coated the whipping with Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium. I finally finished two that I'm satisfied with. A lot of time goes into making the hooks, thimbles and stropping the blocks and I'm glad I don't have a whole lot of them to do! Bob
  11. BobG
    She's a very cool boat! Bob
  12. BobG
    Beautiful boat, Mike! Bob
  13. BobG
    After playing around with the Liquitex a little more while nearly going crazy trying to strop some blocks, I find that it looks great but doesn't have a lot of grab when you want it to hold tight. I think it will good to use once the knots are tied and over small sections of serving. I'm using some Titebond Translucent glue when I need to glue a rope to the end of a block and when gluing two strands of rope together side by side before making a small serving on them. I think everyone is just going to have to experiment and find out what works best for them.
  14. BobG
    I tried the Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium last night on a piece of Syren rope and I checked it this morning. It didn't discolor the beige color of the rope like the CA did. It was practically transparent. I also liked that it had some stiffness to it but was still flexible and it wasn't shiny and very stiff like the CA. I think this will be my go to glue for knots and rigging for the time being. Bob
  15. BobG
    I tried the Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium last night on a piece of Syren rope and I checked it this morning. It didn't discolor the beige color of the rope like the CA did. It was practically transparent. I also liked that it had some stiffness to it but was still flexible and it wasn't shiny and very stiff like the CA. I think this will be my go to glue for knots and rigging for the time being. Bob
  16. BobG
    Fascinating and beautiful work! Bob
  17. BobG
    Thanks very much, Kurt. Much appreciated!
  18. BobG
    First of all, thanks very much for the information. I'm not sure what "using goods and services as the payment type" is on PayPal? I just looked at my account and didn't see anything like that...? Also, how do you calculate the shipping cost before you know the shipping address of where the item would be going to? Wouldn't I need to do that calculation after I know the shipping destination? Bob
  19. BobG
    I need to clear out some space in my small modeling area so I am considering selling a couple of kits to help out with that. I've never sold anything online before and I have a few questions about how to do it for those of you who have done so successfully. How do you calculate the shipping cost? Do you communicate by PM with the potential buyer and then box everything up and get an estimate from the shipper and then get get back to the buyer? Is there a way to calculate the shipping cost online or do you need to go into the post office to get that done? I have a PayPal account and I presume that using it would be the best way to receive payments. Do you wait until you receive the full payment before you ship the item out? Any other advice about selling here on MSW that I haven't thought of would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob
  20. BobG
    She looks great, David! I've never used a foam brush before. Does it do a better job of eliminating lap marks? What type and brand of paint did you use? Bob
  21. BobG
    Absolutely gorgeous, Bob! Your attention to detail is wonderful and your skill with color and stains is exceptional. I love the weathered yet still clean look of your finishes on the boat. Bob
  22. BobG
    Super well done, Dave. Try a little satin Wipe-on-Poly on some scrap and see how you like it. My experience with Tung Oil in woodworking was that it took forever to cure but, then again, I'm no expert in finishing wood! Bob
  23. BobG
    Frank, I am experimenting with several types of glue since I am doing some rigging for my first time ever on my Medway Longboat. I didn't like the how shiny and stiff the thin CA was and the watered down white glue didn't seem to hold too well. So I got a bottle of the Scenic Glue and it is really thick...almost like paste. Is that normal for this type of glue? If so, do you have to rub it into the knots. I think it's to thick to be adsorbed by the rope. I just saw an older post from you where you recommended Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium. Is that a better choice for gluing knots and rigging? Thanks, Bob
  24. BobG
    I'm just starting the first bit of rigging that I have ever done on my Medway Longboat. I experimented a bit with thin CA and watered down white carpenter's glue. I didn't like how stiff and shiny the CA was and the watered down white glue didn't seem to hold real well. I may have watered it down too much. Anyway, I think I will try some of the Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium as you have suggested. Does it take very long for it to dry and harden? Thanks, Bob
  25. BobG
    Well, Grant, that certainly is some disappointing news for your Longboat but some optimistic news for your rebuild. Your advice about slowing down and taking our time is sage advice. Clearly half of my mistakes have been because I pushed forward when I should have stepped back and reevaluated the situation before plunging ahead. I can see some places in my hull that are too thin when I hold it up to a bright light and I'm not really happy about that. I even sanded through the hull in one spot but was able to patch it and it is not terribly noticeable even though I seem to notice it all the time! However, I decided that, as a relative newcomer, I needed to continue on and complete this build. Each time I successfully finish a new step that I've never done before, like recently making tiny hooks and belaying pins, I feel a great sense of satisfaction. My boat isn't going to be as perfect as some of the beautifully completed models here but, truthfully, I'm pretty happy with what I've done even though it has a few flaws. That's progress for me since I can be perfectionistic about what I do and lose sight of what I have accomplished. At my age, time seems to be flying along so I need to focus on enjoying the ride. I'll look forward to following your upcoming builds. Bob

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