BobG
-
Posts
3,087 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by BobG
-
She going to be a beautiful canoe by the time you're finished, Dave. I have applied CA is several ways but mostly with a toothpick the I sliced on an angle to get a really fine point, and I have used a CA glue applicator made specifically for applying CA which looks like it has the eye of a sewing needle that has been cut in half so there is a small, metal, U-shaped end that holds a tiny bit of glue. I also have often used the point of a sharp #11 Xacto knife to apply a very tiny amount of CA into really narrow places like a small gap between two planks. I simply wipe up any excess glue quickly with a small piece of a rag or even my finger on occasion. If you use your finger...wipe fast! Bob
- 114 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- small
- Peterboro Canoe
- (and 2 more)
-
Mike, what spray booth did you end up getting and how do you like it? Bob
-
I prefer to use water based paints since I do not like the fumes that oil based paints give off. I have been using Vallejo, water-based, acrylic paints and brushing them with generally very good results by applying many thin coats. I have even brushed on the Vallejo Model Air acrylic paints even though they are marketed for use in airbrushes. Applying them by brush worked just fine for me. They are simply a lot thinner out of the bottle than their regular Model Color acrylic paints which I thin quite a bit with water before brushing with them. I am totally new to using an airbrush but I will lean heavily towards using water-based paints as much as possible as I learn to use and airbrush. Bob
-
The planking so far looks terrific, Jeff. I had to make a couple of additional planks after I had messed up the original ones. I simply traced the pattern from the outline of the original laser cutout and then carefully cut it with a sharp #11 Xacto blade. I was careful to cut along the lines slowly in several passes without placed to much pressure downward on the knife. That helped me follow the lines without the blade sliding off as it crossed the grain in some places. It was tedious but it worked. Good luck! Bob
-
Did you find a good source for information about setting your boat up for RC or did you just figure it out on your own? Bob
-
I'm making the belaying pins and was wondering if it is best to glue them in place or just leave them loose in their holes? Bob
-
Wow...stunningly beautiful...perfection! Be sure to post some video when she makes her first voyage. I would love to build a steam powered boat at some point. Did you get the steam engine from Krick? Also, did the Krick instructions give you the necessary information for setting your boat up with RC capability? Bob
-
Speedwell 1752 by druxey - a work in progress
BobG replied to druxey's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just WOW! Bob -
I have just begun to look over your build log. Lovely boat and superb craftsmanship! Bob
-
My wife just bought me a complete Grex airbrush set with a compressor for Christmas. So since I've never used and airbrush and haven't used this one yet, who am I to make recommendations though...? However, this airbrush kit was highly recommended by a friend who does use airbrushes. He liked it because it is a double-action, pistol style airbrush with a trigger. He feels it paints as well as the typical, single finger, toggle style airbrushes but is much easier to learn to use and comes with an instructional DVD. I bought a couple of fan nozzles for it also for spraying a wider pattern when needed like on the hull of a large boat. I'm looking forward to learning to use it once I complete my Medway Longboat. Bob
-
I'll be interested to hear how you like this glue. Bob
-
These dory boats are wonderful. Enjoy the build! Bob
- 30 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- grand banks dory
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks, Chuck. I haven't figured out how to use the search function to narrow the search down to something very specific. When I search for something I invariably end up with every word being searched for which results in tons of posts that are irrelevant. I know that when I've sailed on my brother-in-laws boat we have to duck under the boom when coming about but the main sheet attaches to the boom much further towards the mast. It's hard to imagine why they did it the way they did on these longboats. Bob
-
Awesome! I absolutely love the paint job on the canons. Bob
-
Chuck, I have a question about the actual operation of the horse and the main sheet. It looks like the main sheet and block would get in the way of the rudder handle when the boom was sheeted in or out and the boom moved from one side to the other because of where the traveler is located with the main sheet and block attached to it. How did the sailor steering the boat with the rudder avoid having the main sheet and block get in the way of the rudder handle? Bob
- 421 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Kurt, I joined the NRG recently. Are any of the digital issues previous to the date that I joined available for me to access? Thanks, Bob
-
When you say "scale drawings," does that mean they are 1:1 drawings? Also, are the drawings relatively easy to understand? I've seen some drawings that were so "cluttered" with detail that it was actually difficult to determine what I was actually looking at and to get accurate measurements. Bob
-
Simply stunning work! Congratulations on a beautiful planking job. Bob
- 607 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
I forgot to add that I also use Chuck's method of using a small iron like a travel iron to bend wood too. If the bend has a curve with and a twist in it, I like to use the hair dryer method. If it's a more straight forward bend, I like to use the travel iron method which also requires wetting the wood slightly with your fingers before heating it up with the iron. Sometimes I use both methods on a single piece of wood that I'm bending. Whatever it takes to get the job done! Bob
- 114 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- small
- Peterboro Canoe
- (and 2 more)
-
One of the things I finding out about building model boats is that there are many good ways to do things. Modelers seem to find their favorite means of doing something through trial and error. Dave has found, at least on this particular model, that soaking the wood frames and clamping them until it dries works well for him in bending the frames. Many modelers use soaking and clamping successfully to bend wood. I used an Amati plank bending tool to bend the frames on my Indian Girl Canoe. It's one of those tools that looks like a soldering iron with a big, piece of curved metal on the end. I would take a frame and moisten it with a dab of water with my fingers and then gently began to apply heat with the tool while a frame was laying in the curved section of the wood block that comes with the plank bending tool. I would continue to dab it frequently with a little water and rubbing the heating element over the frame while checking the fit of the curve frequently in the canoe. I used medium viscosity CA to glue the frame into place once the fit was close to the correct contour. You need to take care not to scorch the wood. Keeping the heating element moving over a slightly moist surface pretty much prevented any scorching for me. My preferred way to bend wood, however, is Chuck's method of using a hair dryer for dry heat while twisting and bending the wood. This method worked well for me on the Medway Longboat. However, the canoe frames were too small with sharp bends for me to be able to hold them and bend them using dry heat. I preferred the using the plank bending tool method. Bob
- 114 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- small
- Peterboro Canoe
- (and 2 more)
-
I'm a long ways away from being able to scratch build a model from the architectural drawings but I would like to be able to substitute better quality wood for the wood supplied in some of the kits that I'm interested in building. So many kits have mediocre or even poor quality wood in them that it's difficult to get the kind of sharp edges and smoothly sanded surfaces that I want on the model. So maybe a Byrnes saw will be the first tabletop machine that I buy. Bob
Our Emblem ®
