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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Hi BE,can't help you there as I planked the deck as shown on the plans. However,in Chucks' practicum you can see the 3 outer plank strakes are hooded at the ends. Perhaps that may solve your dilemma and give you the required space for the first 6. Just a thought in case you haven't noticed that. Hope this makes sense. Regards, Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hi Allan, I'm not 100% sure but I think they were/are synonymous with the fore jeer bitts. Lees has some belaying plans in his Masting and Rigging book and one plan has them named main top bowline bitts with the fore jeer bitts below on the main deck. The others fore jeer bits. Hopefully a more knowledgeable member can give a definitive answer. Dave
  3. davyboy
    Thank you Allan and BE,a timber hitch it will be. I have Andersons' books didn't think to look in there Spyglass,lovely photo's,thanks for posting them. Kind regards, Dave
  4. davyboy
    Thanks Gregory, I will just form an eye and sieze the Clewline to the yard. The Mondfeld illustration and Chucks rigging plan don't actually show how it's attached to the yard. Also Lees doesn't say how in the text in his book. Likely standard practice and not worth mentioning. Mark,the model is of the cutter HMS Cheerful scratched from Chucks' plans. Thank you, Dave
  5. davyboy
    How would the clewline be attached to the Topsail Yard ? 1) By an eye then lashed to the yard. 2) By an eye with the running end passed through the eye Lees shows the second option but that is on a model from 1692. The pix of other models are not really clear enough to see an alternative. Thanks, Dave
  6. davyboy
    Alan,LOS will not blacken Brass but is great for Copper. I tried blackening the pintles and gudgeons for my Cheerful build,left them in an LOS solution for hours with little result. They barely changed colour. Carrs Brass black at at 20% strength instant result. Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi B.E. I have 7/8th" approx. Difficult to be exact as shrouds,guns and guntackles are in the way. I can't get my vernier in so had to use 2 bits of wood and a pencil mark. Hope this is of use to you. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Hi B.E. Thanks for that,I did think that 1/8th" square was about right for the swivel posts. The gun carriages were not too bad to scratch,I glued the carriage profile drawings to suitably dimensioned wood and cut them on my mill. Just a case then of slicing off the required number of sides,the rest was easy enough,just took a bit of time. The worst for me was making that tiny skylight,broke several window frames doing it The port shroud ratlines are done,now doing the stbd side. Not my favourite job as I've rheumatics in my right thumb and wrist and also the left. What with that and old mans shakes tying clove hitches with tweezers is not funny 😥 I like your dish of goodies but you'll need a bigger one for the rest of the guns Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi B.E. I too made jigs for both types of carriage. I scratch built mine and was very surprised how many separate parts there are,30 pieces altogether I think not counting gun tackle blocks. Never mind,you've only got 11 more to finish Currently progressing the Topmast standing rigging but can't finalise the Topmast shrouds as I'll have to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds first (my pet hate) for easier access. A question if I may,what dimension do you think should Swivel gun posts be,6" square,9" square ? I can't find any info in any of my books. I tried some 1/8th and 3/16" squ' (1/48th scale size) and prefer the former as it looks more realistic. As usual keep up your excellent work. Regards, Dave
  10. davyboy
    Hello Ed, That second last photo WOW. Looking at that one could almost believe you are standing on the deck of the real ship. Wonderful work indeed. Kind regards, Dave
  11. davyboy
    Hi Stergios, Assuming your mast cap is not yet glued on here's what I would do. Get a piece of wood of the same size as the masthead,sieze your shrouds around that then just transfer them onto the masthead. No chance of doing any damage to the model then. Dave
  12. davyboy
    A very nice Companionway BE,I take my hat off to you making working hinges for it. I managed to cut out the fwd corner bits on my main hatch grating without doing any damage. Took quite a while after drilling 3/64" holes right through the decking then filing out the pieces,luckily I have some very small square tapered Jewelers files 1mm x 80mm long to do this. regards, Dave
  13. davyboy
    Hello Druxey and Dowmer thanks for your replies. I've another pair of faux sheave holes to drill now,will go for fore and aft. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Masthead trucks usually had a sheave for flying a flag or pennant. Does anyone know what the sheave orientation was ? Fore and Aft or Athwartships. Thank you. Dave
  15. davyboy
    Thanks for that info Moab. Looks like I'll be spending some money again Dave
  16. davyboy
    Wefalk,perhaps I should have written bend the wire around the pin ensuring the two ends are inside the tube slot,silly me. Dave
  17. davyboy
    Hi Pavel,I'm not knocking Dremel but I bought a model 398 which came with kit of accessories 10 years ago. I found it very noisy and also having too much vibration and bulky. I have hardly used it at all. All my power tools except my bandsaw are Proxxon,quiet with no vibration. Maybe I bought a bad one,who knows,but once bitten twice shy so to say. BTW,I've no connection to the Proxxon company. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Wefalk, I wrote "hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube" Sorry no pic,I thought this was self explanatory. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Hi Svein Erik. What I did was get a piece of 3mm tubing,cut a slot about 10mm long drill a hole right through at 90° to the slot of the diameter I want the eye to be. Bent the wire around whatever pin,drill shank etc diameter to get the size of eye I wanted. Hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube. I can make dozens of eyebolts in a very short time. I have several of these for making different sized eyebolts. No need to butcher a pair of longnose pliers as has been suggested. Incidentally a spun up eyebolt holds much better than the single shank ones. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Hi Moab Interesting,I wonder if it's an updated/reissued version of his book "Building the Wooden Walls" published by Conway in 1991. The design and construction of the 74 gun ship Valiant. I have this book,the contents sound very similar. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Stergios,here is a little cheating you can do. The shifting and standing backstays are the same size of rope,use a long enough piece and sieze them around the masthead thus you have two of your stays for each side. I would make separate breast backstays unless you can do or imitate a cut splice and fit them under the other 2 stays. There is nothing in Lees about serving these stays but that doesn't mean they were not,up to you there Dave
  22. davyboy
    Looking excellent as usual B.E. What is your opinion about cutting out the 2 fwd corner sections on the main grating which I'm thinking of doing. They were used to pass the Anchor Cable/s below when weighing or up onto the deck when preparing to drop Anchor. I've seen this on almost all period models. Perhaps of course this may not have been so on Cutters but I don't see why not. I still have access to this area as the Boom (fitted) can be swung out and the lower Mast backstays slackened off and moved also,hmmm. Anyway,onwards and upwards. Have a good weekend. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Brian,as far as I was aware 20% VAT is the tax which I presumed is deducted. So what is basic cost ? Is that what they pay for things ? 16.67%...........So where does the other 3.33% go to,is that their profit margin 🤣 ? Glad I don't have to pay your iniquitous EU taxes,I left the UK a long time ago Apologies Ronald for hi-jacking your post. Dave
  24. davyboy
    I believe they recently increased their UK prices,probably haven't updated their site yet. All will be made clear when you hear from them. Dave
  25. davyboy
    NO !!!! The Victory is priced at £890,just looked. 20% taken off that sum gives £712. Convert that to dollars and that is what you will pay plus carriage/postal costs. Anything you buy from them will be 20% less than the UK price plus postage as you are in the U.S. not an E.U. country. In fact,anything you buy from any E.U. country will have that countries V.A.T. discounted from their price. I often buy items from E.U. countries and do not pay their V.A.T. as Switzerland is not in the E.U. Hope this helps. Their price in $ is good I would say. Dave

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