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davyboy

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  1. davyboy
    Bob, I've seen it at the annual Messe (trade fair) in Basel. A company from Bern sells this version and the older plastic Unimat One. Very overpriced and not really very good IMO. 10 years ago after taking up shipmodelling again not knowing any better I bought their Unimat One Cool Tool and Circular Saw. Big expensive mistake. Very inaccurate and underpowered to boot,1/16" horizontal and vertical difference between centres when setting up as a lathe which cannot be adjusted out for starters. It will never replace the original Unimat lathe and mill. The saw is also very inaccurate due to it's assembly and struggles to cut 1/8" pear or plywood (9 volt motor). The only good thing about the saw is mine came with a set of the old quality Unimat blades. Just wish they fitted my Proxxon saws. Also,the accessories for the new version are very expensive it looks pretty but....... My advice to anyone is save your money,you can buy much better and very probably cheaper. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hello Don, Your gun carriages are correct for the 17th century. The design of the carriages you have made was not changed until around the 1730's. To quote Laverys' Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815. "Around 1725 it was discovered that the bed of the carriage was not really necessary. The brackets were extended lower down,the axles were fixed by a more complex joint to give greater strength and a separate surface known as the stool bed was provided for the sole purpose of supporting the wedge or quoin used for elevation. The bed was dispensed with and the carriage made slightly lighter". Also,English gun carriages never had holes for the breeching rope bored through the carriage sides as Dan has suggested. I shall enjoy following your build,keep up the good work. Dave
  3. davyboy
    Hello Geoff, Have you considered using Privet. I recall reading on the forum a couple of Australian members recommending this. Apparently it's readily available as it's considered a weed there and grows into a small tree. Sorry but I can't remember who they were,perhaps if you PM Jim Lad he may know. Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi Stergios,you are welcome. I'm happy to have been of help to you. Kind regards, Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi drtrap, They are the Topmast backstays,respectively from fore to aft. The first is the Shifting Backstay. The second is the Breast Backstay. The third is the Standing Backstay which is set up with deadeyes. I have checked Steels' dimensions of Standing and Running rigging,he quotes for a 6th rate ship such as HMS Snake :- 4 1/2" rope for the Standing Topmast Backstay and the Shifting Backstay and 3" rope for the Breast Backstay hence the two different sizes quoted on your plan for A and B. They have nothing to do with yards or running rigging. I have just noticed that there is an almost identical arrangement on the Foremast except the Breast Backstay is further aft. I hope this helps with your problem. Kind regards, Dave
  6. davyboy
    Hi drtrap. As GrandpaPhil says these are two of the Topmast backstays they are called running breast backstays according to Lees. Dave
  7. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. An excellent job of planking,I'm sure it will be as good as any planking to be seen on the forum when sanded and a finish applied. Best of luck with treenailing,I elected not to do this at the time due to poor eyesight. I'm currently making up all my rigging and bagging the finished articles then it's just a case of fitting it when I put the mast and spars in. The end of the tunnel is in sight after 3 years. Keep up the good work, Dave
  8. davyboy
    Pretty sure it's a design fault I have had this Saw for several years,and also have two fences. I've set a gap with feeler gauges,tightened down on either fence and couldn't remove the feeler gauges without difficulty. It's obviously "toeing in"and this causes binding and burning sometimes when cutting pear or box. Solved my problem,bought it's big brother Dave
  9. davyboy
    Rob 206, The Restoration Warship by Richard Endsor. The Warship Anne by Richard Endsor. Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns by L.G. Carr Laughton. First Rate by Rif Winfield. Two other books which may be of interest to you. The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models 1st and 2nd rates by Grant H. Walker. 17th and +18th Century Ship Models from the Kriegstein Collection by Arnold and Henry Kriegstein. These books are published by Seawatch Books who advertise on this forum main page. The Endsor titles are both available on Abe Books,didn't check the other two but they probably are too. These should hopefully cover some of your 17th century interests. Dave
  10. davyboy
    Your planking is looking very good B.E. Top job if I may say so. I reached a milestone yesterday,all deck fittings,guns,cleats et al are now fitted on my Cheerful. I am now debating whether or not to make 4 dozen 1/8" hooked blocks for the training tackles. Masts,spars and sheaved blocks are already made so will have to decide soon methinks before starting masting and rigging. Enjoy your holiday in North Yorkshire,some lovely scenery there. Good ale too BTW,have you any idea whether or not there should be cut-outs in either the main or forward grating to pass the anchor cables below. Nothing shown on the plans. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Hi Julie Mo,that is an impressive block. Your lower block does require a Becket at both ends. A suitable length of rope had the ends spliced together forming a ring with an iron thimble lashed in at each end of the block. One for the hook the other for the falls. Hope your good at splicing . Also,these rings were served overall. FWIW,the largest vang blocks fitted were a 9" double and a 9" single. This on 1st,2nd and 3rd rate English ships,can't speak for other lands. Looking forward to seeing the final result,I know you will make an excellent job of it. Dave
  12. davyboy
    Hi Clare, It's nice to see a build of another unusual subject. A bit of a pain when you have problems trying to obtain information. One of our MSW members in Japan is Mitsuaki Kubota aka fake johnbull. Perhaps he might be able to help you out,may be worth sending him a PM. Just a thought,you could be lucky. Dave
  13. davyboy
    Antony,a fun build it may be but it's also a build of an unusual vessel. Watching the video brought back memories of when the Wife and I lived in Thailand. Used to see these Long Tail Boats regularly on both the Mekong and Chao Phraya rivers. They are a common design in S.E. Asia I believe,will be following this build. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Hi BE, Nice to see you back working on Cheerful,thought you had gone AWOL I cheated slightly when planking the square tuck,made the planks 7/32" wide which gave a nice 5 plank fit. When you come to fit the sternpost,to avoid trying to match it to the counter (ruddy nightmare,I couldn't do it to my satisfaction) you could do what I did. You have to cut a hole anyway for the rudderhead so why not carefully extend it fwd and make a full length sternpost. It's shown on the plan anyway next to the 2 part one,pretty sure there should be a big enough piece left from the lasered out part sheet to do this. Anyway,you're the shipwright so up to you,just saying how I did it. As usual,keep up the good work. Dave
  15. davyboy
    I,m seriously thinking of buying this book now that I know the plans are 1:48. My Cheerful build should be finished by late autumn and I fancy doing a second scratch build of a small ship, Guess I'll just have to suck up the ludicrously expensive postage of 30$ US (over 40% of the book price) Dave
  16. davyboy
    HI Sandor, Having enlarged the pic I notice that the two broadside cannon are not on gun carriages but on what appears to be pivoting slide carriages. Not much scope to stow these for transport as they are fixed to the deck pivot at the front. The stern chase guns could be stowed and lashed against the stern bulwarks I guess. You don't show a pic of the fwd cannon which I expect is a slide mounted or swiveling large bore cannon as this is a gunboat. No idea what would be done there i'm afraid. Dave
  17. davyboy
    Hi Patrick, The Golden Hind would not have had Boomkins, they didn't appear on English ships until circa 1710. (Lees Masting and Rigging states the Foretacks were led through holes in the stem) Her Foretacks would have been led almost identically as shown in your last pic with the red pointing arrow,also as in the pic's Christian previously posted. The 1637 engraving of the Sovereign of the Seas also shows the same lead for the Foretacks. Regards, Dave
  18. davyboy
    Hi Patrick, In Brian Laverys Book the Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War he writes this on page 37. According to Sir Walter Raleigh,the Capstan was first used for weighing anchor in the reign of Queen Elizabeth 1st in the second half of the 16th Century. Though there is evidence it was in use by 1546. No mention of double Capstans in English Ships until the latter part of the 17th Century. Hope this is of some help to you. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Jack,this is a really interesting build of an unusual subject and a good job you are making of it too. Hope you can easily repair the boom attachment,Murphy's Law strikes again I imagine it's a pretty exhilarating experience sailing a full sized Ice Yacht at 40 - 50 MPH with your rump about a foot above the ice. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Does the photo show the platform grating fitted as to what I think is upside down ? I've never ever seen a grating fitted that way on any ship or model. A real stumbling block to say the least. That's just my opinion of course. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi BE,there's nowt wrong with your planking,much better than some I've seen With regard to the square tuck it's pretty straight forward really,I just took the outer shapes from the plans and went from there. I had to have a couple of goes making the tiny outer planks however,fiddly little things. As you bought the kit likely the shapes are provided. I have made and am still making everything on my model excluding the windlass,didn't have a mill or table saw when I ordered the plans and it 3 years ago. Have fun, Dave
  22. davyboy
    Hello Ed,absolutely superb work. I can well imagine that the air was blue when belaying in such a confined area. I had a similar problem belaying,what I did was pass the line through the pinhole then placed the pin in. This let me adjust the tension as necessary then leaving the line in place pushed the pin tight,belaying the line on the pin as normal. When the rope coil is hung on the pin this can't be seen. A fiddle of course but it saves a lot of cursing etc etc. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Hi BE,have you considered using Birch for your deck planking? It is also a light coloured wood but not as white as Holly,I used it on my model and am happy with the result. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Excellent work BE. You really can't go wrong following Chucks' instructions. One question,are you going to stain the hull a darker colour ? Personally I find that South American "boxwood" far too pale for my taste. The hull of my model is mainly built with dark pear,much closer to the colour of oak but that's just my preference. As usual,keep up the good work. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi Siggi, I have 2 photographs of a contemporary model of the 60 gun ship HMS Achilles of 1757. I took these in the Science Museum in London 11 years ago,there are no Fish or Horseshoe plates shown on this model. It postdates HMS Tiger by a decade so it may be ok to assume they were not fitted on your ship. However,it could be that they were just omitted on this HMS Achilles model,who knows. Yet,all other hull fittings are shown as fitted. Hope this is of help to you. Perhaps one of the very knowledgeable forum members hopefully may be able to answer your question. Kind regards, Dave

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