davyboy
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Everything posted by davyboy
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Crackers,the flag pic you have posted is incorrect for the period. Before 1805 there was no red diagonal stripe on the Ensign. Not sure but I believe White or Red depended on which command or theatre of operations the ship was in. Dave
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Yes it does as Amateur has written. In reality single shrouds were often joined together by a cut splice on either side of the masthead. Dave
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If you are fitting Burton tackles a good dodge is to incorporate the tackle pendant with the single shroud. Then you don't have to try and splice/sieze the single shrouds together. Most ships had these tackles (sometimes named masthead tackles) fitted,often not shown on kit plans. I use the forward shroud when I do this,BTW,shrouds were fitted Stbd pair first then Port and so on. Dave
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Daniel,definitely a companionway and probably a Binnacle. Dave
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I still bear the scar from a very sharp Exacto knife from 60 years ago. I was shaping one of the wings (hardwood) of a 1/72nd scale B 17g flying fortress from a kit when the knife slipped cutting me to the bone from the thumb lower joint 2/3 of the way to my wrist Fortunately no tendon damage `MORAL',never cut towards yourself. When I was working in Aviation on the repair and manufacture of Carbon fibre, GRP,Kevlar and plastic components one of my colleagues brought in a pair of "Butchers gloves"for us to use in the workshop. These were made from very finely woven stainless steel mesh,very similar to chain mail. Light weight and very useful protection when working with pneumatic power saws,grinders,cutters and very sharp blades. Dave
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Jeff, Chuck Passaros Syren Ship Model Company have black plastic hooks in sizes 3mm upwards. RHS home page among the advertisers. They look authentic,a lot easier than bending bits of wire which usually look crappy Dave
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Jim, I made my cleats from pieces of the thinner plywood leftovers from the kit. Painted the centres of the yards black so you couldn't see they were made from ply anyway I do the same as you,cut a shallow slot to glue the cleat in. For Yardarm cleats I cut a narrow slot all the way through,glue a suitable piece of wood in then cut it down to form the cleat. Much easier than trying to glue tiny wedges of wood on Dave
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Hi Apollo, In larger ships the Cable was stowed in the Cable Tier which was on the Orlop Deck. When the Cable came off the Capstan it would be led forward by crew members,passed down the hatch and stowed in the Cable Tier. It was I believe not coiled up but laid out in lines to facilitate drainage. You mention about the Jeer Capstan being used,it was in larger ships but in conjunction with the Viol and would have likely been a double Capstan. The Viol cable was similar to the messenger cable but was led aft to a very large snatch block called the Viol Block which was lashed to the foot of the Mainmast then forward,turned around the Jeer Capstan several times forward again then nipped to the Anchor cable. This was to allow proper fitting of the nippers to the Cable due to the Jeer Capstan being too close to the Hawse holes and Bitts. (Hope this makes sense ) I can recommend this book :- The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery, a mine of information. Out of print but available from online 2nd hand book dealers,several copies at the moment starting at $60 US on Abe books. No doubt can also be found on other sellers websites,maybe cheaper Kind regards, Dave
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Hi Apollo, At the time of the Revenge the anchor cable was led directly to the main capstan. The Messenger did not appear until around the 1730's replacing the Viol which had been in use for several decades. Kind regards, Dave
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Interesting article,I may well be wrong but it seems the gun barrel attached with a whacking big bolt to the sliding carriage and elevating screw are in effect a single unit. On discharge of the gun everything moves rearwards simultaneously. Cant see the elevating screw being bent bent by this although there may be a slight downward force caused by the muzzle tending to rise on firing. Of course a wedge if inserted before firing would alleviate this. Funnily enough Lavery mentions in his `Arming and Fitting' that the screw thread through the button allowed elevation/depression without the use of quoins and wedges. This happened when trunnions were superceded on carronades by the loop under the barrel. Can't see them using both. We really need a time machine Dave
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Hi Karl. In English Ships these were called Masthead or Burton tackles and pendants and were fitted on both Fore and Mainmasts They were used for moving/lifting heavy objects on/off the deck and also were used to tension the shroud lanyards. They also gave some additional support to the lower masts. I would imagine this was also the same purpose in French Ships. The pendant would have a large thimble spliced in the end which the Tackle hooked into. These were (in English Ships) rigged on the mast before the shrouds were rigged. Sorry,can't speak for French ships but they look to be underneath the shrouds on your plan I noticed on your rigging plan that there is a number 7 and 27. That appears (to me) to be another masthead tackle with a long tackle block hooked into the pendant thimble. Sorry I can only quote about English practice but hope it is of some help to you. Kind regards, Dave
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Keith,have you seen the build log of Doris for this ship in the Scratchbuild section. Her work and photography is outstanding,you may well find some useful information there. Dave
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Hi Gregor, That is a beautiful model,love your depiction of the anchor Fish Tackle. For info,The Fish Davit Beam length should be 3/10th of the ships extreme breadth according to Goodwins' Sailing Man of War. It fitted into a shoe located between the 1st and 2nd deadeyes. Regards, Dave
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Malc, The lower yards were held close to their masts with either a Truss or a Parrel,not sure which one would have been used on the Bounty. With the yard sling fitted you should have no problem with rigging the jeers as the yard will stay in place. Dave
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types of ships that sailed to Tampa and the gulf before USA
davyboy replied to figuerres's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Hi figuerres, Have a look here www.enchantedlearning.com/explorers/namerica.shtml Many names of early explorers,French,Spanish et al over a period of 200 years or so. May be of some use to you in your quest as some were in your locale. Dave -
Hi Wayne, I had both copies (one of which I sold to a forum member) which had the same content as far as I could see. Check out Abe Books using both titles,Sailing MoW is described by all booksellers therein as published by Conway. Conversely English MoW is described as PUBLISHED not distributed by Naval Institute Press. Just sayin'. Kind regards and best wishes for 2015. Dave
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Richard,The Sailing Man of War was published by Conway Maritime Press in the UK. The English Man of War was published by the Naval Institute Press in America. I rather think that was only a decision by the U.S. publisher to alter the title slightly,the contents are the same. Dave
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Hi Alan, No,they stop at the futtock stave and continue upwards only on the futtock shrouds. Dave
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Hi J.C. Frankie, I have the Conway 1985 edition Bellona and the 1987 edition Diana books. Neither has a fold out plan unfortunately. Dave
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I have heard of Tobacco Pipe cleaners being used to simulate Baggywrinkles by wrapping them around the Stays,Shrouds etc where required. Dave
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When I was working making and repairing aircraft composite components we had a pair of "butchers gloves" in our workshop. They were made from Stainless Steel link chain just like the old Medieval Armour but much finer. Lightweight,comfortable to wear and both blade and saw proof. Wish I still had a pair as I have had a few scars since Dave
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Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go. Regards, Dave
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Brian C and Jaager, Thank you for your replies gentlemen. I cut up a couple of pieces today after setting up the saw and am quite happy with the result but will try to obtain a blade with a finer tooth count. I do have the small Proxxon table saw which is adequate for my purpose. A Byrnes saw and thicknesser are outside my finances unfortunately. Kind regards, Dave
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I recently obtained a quantity of Boxwood. I actually rescued it from a container of "firewood",the average length of the pieces is around 9" with a diam ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/4". It still has the bark on. I bought a bandsaw today so what would be the best way to cut it for modelling purposes ? I was thinking of just cutting it into slices or is it better to leave well alone until required ? The tree was cut down around 18 months ago so I reckon it should be ok to use. Thank you, Dave Mods,if this in the wrong thread please move it.
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