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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Very nicely done B.E. I drilled through each carriage bed then placing the carriage centred at a gunport then drilled through into the deck. I wrote the position under each carriage Pt 1,Stbd 1 and so on to ensure the completed units went into the right place. I kicked the idea of using the copper wire stropping for the Catblocks into touch,it looked awful. Made some from brass sheet a la the drawing in Lees,much better looking,a PITA to make though. Also made the anchor buoys,having a real problem making up the rope work That's on hold for the time being. Have a nice weekend,regards. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hi Stergious,it's standing rigging. That line is one of the topmast backstays. Dave
  3. davyboy
    Hi B.E. These chainplates were a bit of a pain to make,I had to remake a couple of mine which were not up to scratch. Yours look very good indeed. Will start making my cat blocks this weekend,I have some .020" x .040" copper wire. Just about the right size for the "iron strapping",I hope. regards, Dave
  4. davyboy
    Fred,dip the end of the thread in cyano glue then cut diagonaly across the glued part. You then have a needle point,goes through evey time. Dave
  5. davyboy
    Chris,you can contact by email in English. That is what I did,made my order/transaction with no problem. (Google translate works fine ) I'm a Scot by the way,my German is not good enough for everything. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Chris, Have a look at www.massiv-holz-werkstatt.de Frank Horschigs website. Example prices for Beech,Cherry and Pear sheets 1000mm x 100mm x 1mm are €3.10,€5.00 and €7.20 respectively. Cheaper to buy sheets and mill your own strips He has a large selection of other wood and also does strips. I buy my wood from him,good quality timber. Hope this helps, Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi B.E. I too thought that about the outboard steps so I just added a fourth. The 5/8" gap to the top rail is 2'6" in reality. They must have had very long legs considering the average height then was around 5'6" I've just finished making the stocks for my anchors. Went into Laverys' Arming and Fitting to find out the bolting patterns for them. Read a bit further on and he says that the round Crown Anchor and Arms shown on my copy of Chucks plan were not around in 1806. The first of this pattern was not made until 1813 and by 1815 only 25 had been made and 14 issued,probably starting with 1st rates. I also had a look in Steel but no mention of a new pattern there. Up to you of course,just thought I'd let you know. Regards, Dave
  8. davyboy
    Hi John,nice to see another Cheerful being started. Blue Ensign has an excellent build log in the kit build log forum here on MSW. My own build is almost finished,scratched except for the windlass and guns. I will be following your build also. Dave
  9. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. That ladder detail is not on my plans which are from 2015,that is obviously a later amendment. Still,it wasn't a problem to make the ladders,milled 1/32" slots in some 1/16" sheet pear. Marked out the required angles for the stiles then sliced them off on my table saw. Glued up,job done. BTW,remember we are our own worst critics,your work is excellent 👍 Thanks for the thought about my hands. Left is now OK but right still giving me "jippo". Dave
  10. davyboy
    Hi B.E, Looking perfect as normal. I also left my cleats unpainted,looks much better than being painted would. Out of curiosity where on the plans are the ladder profiles shown ? Certainly nowhere to be seen on my plans or else I'm going blind Anyway I just made a pair to fit,look the same as yours with unpainted stiles. Haven't done anything these last few days,cold,damp and frosty weather do wonders for the rheumatics I have in both hands NOT. regards, Dave
  11. davyboy
    Hi B.E. It's looking very good. I was right when I said 2mm looked overscale as you've shown,I'll order some 1,8mm cabled rope for my anchor cables. Funny you should mention about a cathead support bracket,I thought that too. The Science Museum model hasn't got any and of the NMM models only one appears to have them fitted. regards, Dave
  12. davyboy
    Thanks for that B.E. I had purchased some 2mm dia. cable laid rope but it looked much too large. 1.8 mm dia would likely be ok but I'll wait until your post on cables. Dave
  13. davyboy
    Hi B.E. I'll post these items to you tomorrow or Wednesday.and will tape the files and drills to a piece of wood to prevent breakage in the post. Not sure about the anchor cables. I've had a look in Steele's list of necessary ropes and can find nothing about the size of anchor cables although every other rope related to anchors is given. Sods law I guess or I'm looking in the wrong place. Have you any idea of their sizes in comparison to the mainstay ? I read somewhere sometime that they were the thickest ropes on the ship,but............ Regards, Dave
  14. davyboy
    Patrick,you are making a very good model,very nice indeed. I watched a programme yesterday on English television about this ship and Drake. There were many parts of the programme taken on board the replica in London. Not a lot of headroom below decks and extremely cramped living conditions. Hard to believe that the original ship circumnavigated the world. BTW,the pivot point for the Whipstaff is called the Rowle. Dave
  15. davyboy
    Very nice job on the ordnance B.E. There are a lot of parts for each gun assembly aren't there. I've moved both my long guns to the #2 gunports and have made up 4 swivels to place in the #1 gunport areas,my choice. The rigging is nearly finished,just the lower yard braces to do then make the cat blocks and anchor buoys etc etc. BTW,if you can find a use for a couple of 1mm sq x 80mm long jewellers files #4 or 5 cut plus some .7 and 1mm drills drop me a PM with your address and I'll post them to you. All are unused courtesy of the Basel fleamarket,cost me next to nothing Regards, Dave
  16. davyboy
    Matrim, The tops should not be at right angles to their respective masts but tilted down at their fronts at the same angle as the mast is raked aft. As the tops are fitted to the trestle and cross trees Steele says :- "the foremost ends (trestle trees) are to drop as much below a square with the middle line on the mast as the mast is to rake aft in the length. That they may be level when the mast is in its place". Sorry about the somewhat archaic English. Hope this is of help. Dave
  17. davyboy
    I would say yes. The Spritsail yard would certainly have at least standing lifts and was also used as a lead (via thimbles or eyebolts) for the Jibboom and flying Jibboom guys. Has to be safe access for any repair/maintenance req'd on those whether or not a sail is bent. Just my opinion of course. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Well done with the Boom Crutches B.E. I did say they were a bit of a pain to make I like your addition of bolts in the Transom Knees,I may crib your idea and do mine,have to remove the Flag Halliard cleats first though. C'est la vie. I bit the bullet and made 4 swivels and posts for the bow area,I'm the Captain so it's my choice They also will not be added until the build end. Incidentally,I'll bet you will catch those Crutches sometime,they are a bit vulnerable there,even when pinned. Mine have been off a couple of times already,I'll glue them finally at the end of my build. regards, Dave
  19. davyboy
    An excellent start to the New Year B.E. I just carefully cut down the transom frames 'til the knees were a snug fit,those Boom crutches are a bit of a pain to shape right. I had two attempts before I was happy. I'm currently in the process of rigging the Yards which I fully dressed before hanging them,makes life a bit easier. I wish you a happy,healthy and prosperous New Year. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Andante,I use Pritt glue sticks. Available throughout Europe I believe as they have the name (glue stick) in 15 different languages on the container. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Very nice BE, may I suggest not hanging the rudder until later in your build. It is quite vulnerable,don't ask me how I know. I've made my "waste product pipes" and their location holes in the planking. Drilled a small hole then filed them out as I didn't wish to risk any splintering. Best wishes for the festive season, Dave
  22. davyboy
    Good evening BE, One interesting point re the "facilities" comes to mind. There are no discharge pipes/chutes for them shown on the plan as I'm sure there must have been. I missed this earlier so I will now run a small drill down the "hole" and through the lower counter planking. Can then open it out to a suitable size for a piece of tubing. I would imagine that the area below each "facility" compartment must have been lead lined to prevent rotting of the lower counter planks. Not that we need to bother about that though. On the other hand,maybe only buckets were there and "naughty" sailors were given "latrine detail" instead of the cat Sorry,couldn't resist saying that. Regards,and keep up your excellent work. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Good evening Scott, The following sail rigging shown on period ship models is normally left on with the upper yards lowered to the caps. Sheets and Clewlines,they help to hold the yards down. Buntlines,Leechlines and Reefing tackles if fitted,an overhand knot is tied at the rope ends and the lines pulled up to their respective leading blocks on the yard. Bowlines are not always shown but if so,they are hitched to their respective yards. Hope this is of some help. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Good evening timboat, Telescopes/spyglasses first appeared in the early 17th century. I would think that at least a ships captain Naval or Merchant would possess one in the early 18th century. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi BE,that's an excellent job you have made of your deck planking. Very nice indeed Dave

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