Jump to content

davyboy

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    710

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Congratulations Nenad, I too had Cataract surgery done today on my left eye,I had the right eye operation done in January. The increase in vision in that eye was spectacular (40% to 100%) within a few days. I hope it is the same for you. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hi Doris, How nice to see you are back with your model of the Royal Katherine. Sorry I can't help with the book in Swedish but the following book may be of help to you. 17th and 18th Century Ship Models from the Kriegstein Collection. Second revised and expanded edition. It was published by Seawatch Books ISBN 978-0-9820579-7-1 but unfortunately it does not appear now on their current list. Perhaps your local library could obtain a copy for you. Some of the models are of ships of around this period with very good colour photographs nearly all showing the ornamentation,these are:- The Royal James 1671 1st Rate. A Charles the second 4th Rate ca 1680. The Coronation 1685 2nd Rate. I have this book and it's a treasure. I just checked and see there are copies of the first edition for sale on Abe books but am not sure how much difference there is from my edition. Probably not a great lot I would think. Kind regards, Dave
  3. davyboy
    I like your shade of red B.E. very nice indeed. Kurt,I made my wales at the full thickness,easy enough to bend with no worries about a second layer being feathered down to nothing at the rebate. Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi BE,if you are interested have a look at this website. www.massiv-holz-werkstatt.de He has a large selection of timbers at good prices, eg a 1000mm x 200mm x 1.5 mm plank of Linde (Limewood) would cost €7.30 +p&p. I bought all the Pearwood for my Cheerful build from him,excellent quality it is too. He says he will cut wood to any size you wish,so I guess he would do Imperial sizes if you asked. He does speak English,however his website is in German. I did my order by email and bank transfer. On his homepage click on Produkte,then scroll down to Brettchen (planks) all are from .5mm to 50mm thick x 1000 x 100 mm. I've no connection to his company just a happy customer. My order arrived within a few days of payment. Kind regards and thank you for your good wishes, Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi BE,your Cheerful is coming along nicely. Have you considered using 1.5 mm ply for the false deck it's only 5 thou thinner and you can cut it in one piece out of a sheet. I did for mine it worked a treat,just epoxied it down. I had the same problem as you with the bow fillers just added a thin piece on top. Thought I'd made a booboo as I'm scratch building mine except for the windlass. Building is on hold just now until I have the cataract op on my left eye next month. My vision just now with one good and one bad eye leaves much to be desired as my specs are now useless. Regards and keep up the good work. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Hi bluenose2, I believe the original Endeavour didn't have bumpkins fitted. For certain the replica has the foretacks led to a block on top of the catheads. I'm sure that they would have got this right. I think that where boomkins would have been fitted the foretack fouled on the catheads due to their position. Google HMS Endeavour and you will find many pix,some showing this lead of the foretack. The ones shot from just aft of the windlass show this best. That I'm sure is why there is nothing on the plans about them. There was a short discussion about this a couple of years ago,in one of the build logs as I recall. Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi again Tom, Sailmaking section :- page 153,left hand column last sentence, page 154 left hand column first sentence. Regards, Dave
  8. davyboy
    Hi Tom,here's two bits from Lees,hope they are of help. 1:- "After 1730 and up to 1745 on small ships and 1780 on large ships,the fore part of the sail was cut off and the luff laced to the mizzen mast". 2.- "When gaffs were fitted,which was from 1745 on small ships and 1780 on large ships the mizzen sail was cut exactly as just described". He also states that "the mizzen sail was always loose footed,that is,no boom was ever fitted; it was only when the permanent driver replaced the mizzen that the boom became a permanent feature". If it was my frigate model I'd fit the gaff. Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi Tom,the mizzen jeer did hang abaft the mast. As I understand it this allowed the mizzen yard to be moved to the other side of the mast when changing tack to prevent the mizzen sail wearing on the mast. The parrel/truss was slackened off,the mizzen yard bowlines disconnected and the yard physically hauled aft then passed to the other side. Must have been a real PITA for the crew as the jeer,brails,sheet and likely the lift would also need some slackening off. Still,Navy ships had large crews so manpower wouldn't have been a problem. I would imagine the sail would have had to be furled to do this but I'm no sailor,a large kite comes to mind Dave
  10. davyboy
    Thanks Kevin, Thought that might be the case,poor design in my eyes. The Chilean Navy had the right idea. I worked offshore in the late 70's with a Sikorsky S 58t,similar to the Wessex but powered by a P&W PT6 T6 twinpac. Had to get a "dead one" cleared off the helideck to one side. It took a dozen of the rig workers to manhandle it over the helideck netting. That was on a production platform which didn't pitch and roll like a ship. Regards, Dave
  11. davyboy
    Hi Kevin,I too follow your build and a sterling job you are making of it too. One question if I may,was the Wessex kept out tied down and bagged on the helideck most of the time. If not,it must have been a real pain to get it in and out of that sideways hangar on a regular basis. Blade folding for sure and probably also the pylon. Keep up the good work Dave
  12. davyboy
    Doug,that is how it was done. Stbd 1&2,Port 1&2 then Stbd 3&4,Port 3&4 and so on. A good dodge for single shrouds is,if the ship had 2 Burton pendants (masthead tackles) to incorporate these with the single forward shroud. Alternatively a false cut splice can be made joining the 2 single shrouds,the serving will hide this. Just for info,the forward shroud on square rigged RN ships was always wormed and served for it's full length. Prevented the sails chafing on the fwd shrouds when close hauled Think this was standard in all navies. I believe on fore and aft rig the rearmost shroud has this done. Dave
  13. davyboy
    An interesting idea but...What are the chances of not pulling the ratlines out of line when,after turning in the deadeyes reeving the lanyards then tensioning the shrouds? It's almost a guarantee you will pull them out of line,thread/rope can/will stretch after all. Could end up looking dreadful if you've glued the clove hitches. Just a thought Also,I can't imagine the hastle of getting 4 or 5 pairs of shrouds linked together by ratlines over the masthead in sequence stbd 1&2 then port 1&2 etc. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Hi Maury,when I have to rig very small blocks I dip the end of the thread in cyano glue and cut diagonally through it. As sharp as a needle and goes through no problem,I do this for larger blocks too. No need for a needle threader at all. regards, Dave
  15. davyboy
    Hi Seren,can't help you with drawings but if you google HMS Victory the second item is 100's of photographs of her. You should be able to get a good idea of where the wale positions are from them. Surprised there's no info on the plan,nor any material provided for them. Hope this may be of some help to you. Dave
  16. davyboy
    Always cut outside the line,you can then sand/file the parts to obtain a good fit. Dave
  17. davyboy
    I've been using Swann-Morton #26 unsterilised blades for donkeys years,also use the #21 and #25's occasionally. Much prefer the larger size of these blades to small blades. Incidentally,I just use my fingers to change these blades and have never cut myself doing so. To remove,I hook a thumbnail under the end,lift then push forward a bit and slide blade off the handle by gripping the back. To replace,grip the back then slide new blade on 'til it clicks in place. That's how I've always done it without injury. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Hi Capn Morgan, The tackle R11 is called the Lateen Mizzen Yard Bowline they were rigged on both Port and Stbd sides. The tackle at the aft end of the yard is called a vang,they were also rigged in pairs Pt and Stbd. A rope was clove hitched around the yard peak,a long tackle (fiddle) block was spliced in each end and connected to a single block hooked into an eyebolt in the quarter piece each side. Have to say this,that rigging plan is rubbish. Get the book JCF mentioned or get Andersons' 17th Century Rigging IMO a better book,with better line drawings etc. Also usually easily found on online booksellers lists. Rigging really is fun,honest Dave
  19. davyboy
    Hi Ed,I just want to say how much I am enjoying following this build. Absolutely wonderful workmanship. I noticed in your close-up pic the futtock shroud hooks appear to be opened out somewhat. I had this problem using copper for hooks,I found that giving the hook a bit of a squeeze with a pair of smooth jawed pliers work hardened the copper somewhat. They then had less tendency to straighten. I can't remember where or when I read this but it worked for me even on 0.5 mm copper wire. Regards, Dave
  20. davyboy
    Daniel,Jason, That item is called the Cap Shore. It was fitted to take the strain of the weight of the forward overhang of the Cap from the shoulders of the Mast Tenon. It was tenoned into both the Cap and the Top and was usually only fitted on 1st and 2nd rate ships. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Ron, If you decide to order wood from Deutschland check out www.massiv-holtz-werkstatt.de also. Frank Horschig has no problem with orders in English. He has a very good selection of timber and is not expensive. I do all my ordering by email and pay by bank transfer. No connection with him,just a very satisfied customer. Dave
  22. davyboy
    Hi Cal, The Caldercraft Victory is 1/72 scale and they also manufacture Cannon in that scale and probably also gun carriages. I've just looked at Cornwall Model Boats website and they list Caldercraft Cannon at this scale. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Hi Chris, Here is what Lees writes verbatim "usually the boomkins butted against the beakhead though sometimes they butted or were bolted against knightheads on either side of the bowsprit,this latter method being used mainly after 1800". He does not mention anything as to how high they would have been mounted. Unless some other forum member can give you better info,I guess "its up to you *. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Hi Haliburton, Sorry but I don't have any pics. So far I've made the gratings,gun carriages,pump bodies and milled mast/yard sheave slots for my Cheerful build. I intend to make all my own blocks and will fit sheaves in all but the smallest. I also made my mast coat using the mill. I've really enjoyed doing this plus it saves one money. My next buy (when I can afford it) will be a lathe. I could kick myself for selling my Unimat SL back in the 80's when I stopped modelling. Regards, Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi there Haliburton,you should definitely buy the MF 70 mill. I bought one earlier this year and wouldn't be without it. There are only 2 extra accessories made for this tool AFAIK,a rotary table #24264 and a machinists vice #24260 and they're not very expensive. Dave

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...