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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Hi Mark P, Thank you for that info,much obliged. It means I don't have to blacken the brass set I've made for my current build. Kind regards, Dave
  2. davyboy
    What metal were pintles and gudgeons manufactured from in English 17th and 18th century warships. Bronze or Iron ? Lavery does not mention which in his Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War. I would assume Bronze as Iron and Saltwater don't mix too well Thanks, Dave
  3. davyboy
    Hi Christos, That is called a knight. It was used for raising or lowering the lower fore,main and mizzen lateen yards in conjunction with a rams head block. The tie started near the yard centre went over a groove or sometimes a sheave in the cap down through a hole in the rams head block then back up through the sheave or over the groove on the other side of the cap and down to the yard on that side. This should be shown on your rigging plans of which I assume is of a French ship. That is how they did it. Can't see from your pic but I'm pretty sure there will be one abaft your main and mizzen masts also. Hope this helps. Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi Michael, That is almost certainly a Chinese knock off of the Proxxon KT 70. Looks almost identical even down to the colour,doubtful if it's anywhere near the same quality. Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi, I can't say for certain but I believe that with the introduction of the long driver boom the stern ensign staff was not fitted when the ship was at sea,only in port. As was I believe the jackstaff on the bowsprit. The photo's show apart from the sloop a loose footed gaff sail on all the others,some still having a Lateen yard fitted. No problem with a stern ensign staff then. I suspect by looking at the angle of the pic that the sloops' driver boom was short enough to pass inside the ensign staff. Of course,it would be easy to transfer the gaff ensign halliard to the opposite side if or when required. Unfortunately I'm not at home just now so can't check in my Books. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Mike. Middling means if 50ft of brail rope is req'd on one side you use a 100ft rope fold it in two and sieze it to the cringle at the fold. Yes there is a block on each side of the yard and both sides would be hauled on simultaneously. Methinks the eyelets are a kit invention,nothing about eyelets for brails in any of the books I have. Boltropes and cringles are much stronger than sail canvas. Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi Jeremy, If you're looking for wood you could try the following German wood suppliers :- www.massiv-holz-werkstatt.de www.arkowood.de I've bought wood from the top one,excellent range,quality wood and service. A bit closer than the U.S. to Cape Town. No connection to that business BTW. Regards, Dave P.S. forgot to mention both supply strips and planks
  8. davyboy
    Hello KAT, Ulises Victoria a Mexican member lives in Monterey. Perhaps if you contact him by PM he could help you with information on suitable wood available in Mexico. He has a build log of the Royal Louis on page 7 of the Kit Build section of the forum. Kind regards, Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi Christian and Sjors, The purpose of the Crowsfeet was to prevent the foot of the Topsail chafing on the rim of the top. Dave
  10. davyboy
    Hi Folded Frog, Jackstays would not have been in use on the HMS Agamemnon 1781. They were not introduced on English warships until post 1810 according to Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War. You'll have to bend the sails to the yards. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Pete, I agree with both John and JCF's posts. Additionally to Lees,R.C. Anderson in both his books also gives a Parrel as having 2 rows of trucks. What is shown in your photo looks like a bit of modellers "inaccurate fancy work"to me. BTW,the HMS Royal William was a 1692 rebuild of the HMS Prince of 1670. There were only 2 ships given this name,the second being launched in 1833. Regards, Dave
  12. davyboy
    Hi Terry,I'm pretty sure there is not a model kit of this ship. She was a Leda class 38 gun Frigate launched in Bombay in 1817. I would imagine her plans are available from the N.M.M / Royal Museum Greenwich. I guess you were watching "Flog it" on BBC 2 earlier today Dave
  13. davyboy
    Charlie,the "strange ring" would normally be for the gun breeching rope. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Hi Mike, That is a beautiful Jewelry box. I bet your Admiral is very happy,lots of "brownie points" there for certain Dave
  15. davyboy
    Hi fmartins, The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin. If you're interested there are 14 copies on offer at the moment by Abe Books starting at just under $50 US. Covers English Warships. Dave
  16. davyboy
    Hi Timboat, Andersons' 17th Century Rigging is IMO somewhat better than his Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast. Larger line drawings and a foldout rigging plan of the St George 96 guns of 1701. Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War has a belaying plan for a 20 gun ship of circa 1719 in section 4. Also has 2 pages of text appertaining to this plan. May be of some help to you. Dave
  17. davyboy
    FWIW,what I do is cheat by passing the line through the hole for the belaying pin then push the pin in. This allows you to adjust any later line slackness by removing the pin,retensioning the line,replacing the pin then belaying after finishing work in that area. No one can see this as it will be covered by the rope hank anyway. Just my tuppence worth. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Hi Stergios, No idea really but I would definitely use 1mm brass wire,1,5mm is much too large in my opinion. I used the 1mm on my Cruiser,looks ok. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Is there any reason why the chase guns could not be reloaded by the guncrew standing on the deck ? The bulwark is only about 3'9" high,shortened breeching allowing perhaps 6" to 9" recoil would suffice as the muzzle is only around 15" from the hull when fully run out anyway. No H & S 200 years ago This is just a thought but I have seen a drawing by I think Van de Veldt of similar being done on a much larger ship. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Dave, It looks like you are having an "interesting" time with the standing rigging of your S o S model. Looking very good,must have been a bosuns' nightmare then. If you plan on fitting sails with their running rigging,just wait 'til you get to the Fore and Mainsail Martnets It would pay dividends if you get hold of a copy of R.C. Anderson's book The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast. There are plenty for sale on Abe Books and this book has much info therein,some pertaining to the Sovereign. There is another book by him,17th Century Rigging which is even better IMO. Not listed on Abe Books just now but should be available elsewhere. Happy rigging Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Stergios, The item you have indicated with the yellow line should be on the photoetch supplied with the kit. If they are the same (which is likely) as in the C.C. Cruiser kit the rounded portion is too large and the flat portion too wide,easily fixed with a small file. I had to reduce mine by about 1mm to fit with the yardarm end dimension given on the Cruiser plans and approximately halved the width of the straps as they looked very out of scale. The trucks are for the Topsail Yard ties which should be led through them. They are lashed to the aft Topmast Backstays,their position should be shown on the rigging plans. Dave
  22. davyboy
    Hi Chuck, 1st pic lower right cadmium red light + burnt sienna. The lower colour is very close to the W&N red ochre which I bought,mine looks to me just a tiny shade darker. TBH, I imagine if you bought a specific colour from several different manufacturers there could be a slight difference between them anyway due to the ingredients therein. Probably best if people use the shade of red they like,we don't have time travel so who can say they're wrong Dave P.S. managed to paint the gunport recessed liners ok with a #1 brush.
  23. davyboy
    I decided to "bite the bullet" so to speak,I purchased a tube of Windsor & Newton red ochre from their Galeria acrylic range. It is slightly redder (in my sight) than the bottom row 4th from left in post 13. I have duly painted the bulwarks of my Cheerful build covering the red I had started to use,I'm the Captain and I like it As has been said already paint was mixed on site so there would have been many variations in shade. Just one slight problem,I now have to repaint the outside of the recessed gunport liners (about .040" wide) to match the interior without making a mess on the outer planking :D This has been an interesting thread to say the least. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Hi rob,may I suggest you buy a Proxxon instead of a Dremel. I've a Dremel 398 which I bought 7 years ago,sounded like a bag of nails from the start,and it vibrated as well. I doubt if it's had an hours use since. I've a Proxxon IB/E and 50/E plus other Proxxon tools,cant fault them and they are very quiet running to boot. J.M.O of course. Good luck with your build when you start it. Dave P.S. If you do go for a Proxxon try here :- www.tbs-aachen.de or www.satberlin.de and save yourself a few quid. A fair bit cheaper than UK prices even counting postage. No connection to these companies,just a satisfied customer.
  25. davyboy
    Hi Johann, Your workmanship is impeccable. It doesn't really matter how long it takes until completion,it is the pleasure of the journey which counts. Not the time taken for it. Regards, Dave

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