davyboy

I welcome everyone!
  The painting process took some time.
The photo shows the hull of the model after covering it with primer.

@Thukydides
Thank you for your nice comment, and everyone else for the many LIKES.
 
 
Equipment of the main royal yard – Vergue de grand cacatois
The royal yards are on the 4th floor of the rigging. Since these yards on the La Créole were obviously equipped with lifts and braces, it can be assumed that they were already an integral part of the ship's rigging. In contrast, until the end of the 18th century, the royal sails were often hoisted together with the yards and flown as fair-weather sails only when necessary, i.e. without braces and lifts.
To carry out the tyes for the royal yards of La Créole, I have photos of the original model at my disposal, which a restorer from the Musée de la Marine in Paris kindly photographed in the depot especially for me.
You can't see much in the following picture of a royal yard of the Paris model, except that the tye is somehow knotted and doesn't have a hook like that of the togallant yards.
 

Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris – La Créole
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

In conjunction with the depiction of a royal yard from the Atlas du Génie Maritime and various other examples, the tyes may have looked like this.
 

 
My model implementation or interpretation of the tye ø 17 mm (ø 0.35 mm in model scale) for the main royal yard looks like this:


Next I made the parral. The royal yards receive a slightly simpler version of a parral, only served with ropes, without leather covering.


This was followed by the production of the single blocks for the royal yards. These were used to guide the clew lines - The clew lines for the main royal sail had a diameter of 11 mm (in the model scale ø 0.23 mm), accordingly the blocks were around 13.5 cm long (in the model scale approx. 2.8 mm) according to the table in the monograph .



After attaching the grommets as abrasion protection, the equipment of the main royal yard was completed by attaching the braces and lifts.

We then continue with the fore royal yard.
Sequel follows …

Some inner sanding was done for few frames using oscillating sander and paper burr was removed with a small piece of sander paper. Result is very nice and acceptable. This is rough sanding, still leaving some meat close to the line for final sanding..
 



Happy modelling..

Here are 13 hulls, awnings and 'verandahs' (promenade decks?). And the thing with all the clamps on it is the promenade deck for the big model - I'm gradually adding planks; one or two each day.

Plus the deck fittings for the wheel and what I think is storage. And the wheel itself under construction. I cheated with this. I asked a fellow Men's Shedder to turn it on the lathe because I don't have the skills. You can see the little holes in the sides for the handles. Once they're in place I'll slice it off its substructure and we should have a wheel instead of a cylinder.


Steven

Not my best bit of photography 
I have taken the template for the fore deck and adjusted the port side by adding strips of wood. I will then use the dimensions for the port to reduce the starboard side to match. 
 
This means I had to add to the first couple of frames, still a bit of shaping to do there. 

Bit to wet outside this evening due to the persistent rain this evening. 
 
Simon

I think it better for ventilation and drainage open.
A model of the Bellona has it open.

Hull Planking, cont. .
It seems like forever since my last post. I had some personal matters to attend to amongst a few other things. Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting things back up to speed.
 
I'm working on a tricky part of the hull planking, those cutouts around the gun ports and sweep port lids. I really had to take my time here in order to avoid re-dos. The reveal around the gun ports is somewhere between 1/64"-1/32". A pillar file comes in really handy. It only cuts on one edge thus allowing for clean corner cuts. https://contenti.com/grobet-extra-narrow-pillar-files I use either a "0" and "2" cut.
 
I haven't done any sanding on the planking and as you can see it's a bit of a mess. The red color is Winsor & Newton "Crimson". In the past I would add a bit of Burnt Umber in order to darken the color. The two colors would often separate which I found to be a pain, so I decided to keep it simple this time around.

Mike

The belfry: technical implementation tests:
 



 
Final version in ebony wood:

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch.
 
Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions.
It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages.
 
A look in the package

4748
This is what you get.

4743
Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps.
The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence.
 
My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor  planking.

4741
The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin.

4742
I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint.
 
The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches.

4745
The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx.

4746
The remaining Resin fitting is the davit.
 
I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in.
The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort.
 
The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔
 
Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass.
 
I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra?
 
 On with the assembly.
 
B.E.
21/05/2024
 

I suppose that might have originated when wenches aboard would lean over the 'railing' to display their wares.

Good Evening Masa;
 
In the Eighteenth century most ships of any size were built or repaired in a dry dock. An existing ship would be floated in on a high tide, and as the water receded, the hull would be propped up with a large number of shores, whilst her keel would settle on a line of timber blocks. The base of the dock sloped towards the river, both to allow the water to drain away thoroughly, and to facilitate launching on a slipway. Once the dock was empty, a pair of gates would be shut across the entrance to keep the water out. In earlier periods, the dock would be closed with a bank of clay and stones. 
 
The floor of the dock was made of stout timbers, called the 'ways' which were set in like railway sleepers. The blocks to support the keel, and the shores, would be nailed to these ways to prevent them moving.
 
A new built ship could be launched by opening the gates and allowing the dock to fill with water; this was best done with extra high tides. On the other hand, if there was no high tide soon, the ship could be launched  down the ways; this was done by setting down timbers like a railway track, called a slipway, running into the water. The ship was fitted with launching cradles at the bow and stern, which sat on the slipway, and the blocks under the keel were knocked away. The ways were well-greased. Sometimes the ship would slide down the ways easily, other times she needed a good pull to get her moving. 
 
The book 'Building the Wooden Fighting Ship', by James Dodds and James Moore, describes the build process in detail, with a large number of hand-drawn, good quality illustrations, and also covers the launch. There are several models of ship on the ways ready to launch, including the well-known model of the Bellona, and the Victory of 1765. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

 
 

It’s important to distinguish the difference between a build ways and a drydock. A build way is typically sloped to the water’s edge, and while the ship is built, it doesn’t actually rest on the slipway until just before launching.
 
A drydock is constructed below the level of the water, and does have a flat bottom. It might have some sloped drainage towards the centerline, or to wherever the drain valves are located. Where pumps are not available, drydocks can make use of natural topography to fill and empty. For example, by locating the dock some ways up a river, after closing the gate, the water can be drained to sea level (helps also to do the draining when the sea is at low tide). There is a drydock in Port Weller, Ontario, that is located above the first lock in the Welland canal. It doesn’t use pumps at all. The water is allowed to drain down the 40’ drop into Lake Ontario. 
 
Things haven’t changed too drastically over time so some pre-modern ship launching techniques are similar. Prior to  launching, the slipways (usually a pair of flat beams laid astride the keel (you can see these in the picture of the shipyard model you posted), are well greased with tallow or other lubricants. A pair of special launch cradles are constructed fore and aft. These cradles will bear the weight and balance of the ship when it comes time for the launching. These will slide down the slipway, but are held static by a series of chocks and braces. Once the launch cradles are built and braced in position, the ship is then slowly lowered from its build staging (usually by knocking out the keel blocks) onto to the launch cradles. Any remaining staging is removed, and when the time comes for launching, the chocks are knocked out and the cradles (with the ship) slide down the ways into the water. Typically hawsers or anchor cables are used to arrest the movement of the ship once waterborne.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Andy

I have about 12 frames made, decided it was time to try and see how they looked on the keel.

With that frame Aa doesn't extend all the way to the line on the plans.  Actually none of them do.  They do all line up with each other.

Did I do something incorrect?  I don't believe this is expected.

Shawn

Ok I have had an amazing day! For my 60th birthday my wife and kids gave me the Caldercraft HMS Victory!! This will be my third Victory build. My sister also painted me a picture of the Victory, my favourite ship. What an amazing job she did!! She is so talented. It was a 100% surprise and just blew me away. 
 
Cheers Grant 

Planking the bow.
Purely speculative. As mentioned earlier, the planking here is horizontal, on many carracks it is curved vertical, but at the time of the sinking of Mary Rose this seems to have become somewhat old-fashioned. most drawings then show horizontal planking.
 
First, a clean up on the inside

Then the bow is built up step by step.

The bow is planked. Not clearly visible in the photos, but there are still depths and heights in the shape here and there. But the planks are thick enough to sand away these imperfections.
 
And. Not happy with the errors on the right, but we don't see anything about this later. Needs further sanding (left)

With the cardboard fore castle. In this setup the height is already 1.5cm lower.
Next, sanding, applying treenails, etc. to be done.

Thanks for following

Model is finally finished, a friend photographer made real good pictures so when I got them I will post.
 
 

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Thanks for the replies. A bit more progress. Up to step 126. the false deck had its problems but seems to be glued down ok. A few minor issues with the stern, in particular the door frames to the galleys. When putting on the temporary beams, the slots for the pegs were quite tight but manageable. So, most of the hull is complete and now on to the inner bulwarks. No major obstacles so far😊.
 
Till next time.
 
Some pictures:
 
 

Yesterday, I tackled the upper/lower apron. I had glued the wedge halves together a few days ago and had them lined up in the proper order on my workbench. However, I noticed that 8/9 wedge was missing! What the heck! Over an hour of searching produced negative results, swear jar was very happy. Only thing I could think of was the family cat took it as she likes to spend time with me. So, do I get a hold of Chuck and wait for replacement, or forge ahead. I really didn’t want to contact Chuck as he’s headed out for some R&R. I decided to make a replacement. I first tried the make the wedge by hand, I mean it’s all straight lines, right? Well I forgot that I can’t draw a straight line using a ruler. The results were very pathetic and not worthy. Well I forgot that I have a Proxxon mill, perfect! After about 1/2 hour of milling I dropped the part into the appropriate hole in the billet and it was a perfect fit. Yea! Sorry, but in my haste to move on, I forgot to take pictures. As you can see, the replacement really stands out on the apron. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

John - It is quite difficult to see the extent of damage but my inclination would be to use a round file to make the holes circular then plug with a matching wood and sand back flat to the deck before drawing on the caulking. I'm a bit adverse to filler.🙁

The broken tabs are not proving to be a problem, as you can see, I have managed to create templates for the main, fore and aft decks. I have erred on the side of caution and they are all slightly over sized so I can sand the actual decks once they are cut out. The main deck was made in three parts and after getting them lined up, I have glued strips over the joins. This is shoebox card so it's quite sturdy. 
Frustratingly, she is not symmetrical, some of which can be rectified by building up or filing down excess but there will be a case of "so be it". I will know it but I doubt any casual observer will. 
One of those annoying things is the bow, the ply has warped, I am taking steps to correct this but there may still be a slight twist to port in the end. I suspect once the decks are fixed in place and the hull planed, most of this will be sorted. 
 
 
Simon

I have added hatch covers and deck beams for half deck and forecastle

a start is made on the panelling and cabins of the officers. Port side only.

Dick

Thank you guys...we leave tomorrow.
 
Yes I am headed out to the north and south fork of Long Island.   Gonna check out some maritime stuff including some museums that have small boat collections.  Still researching that block island Cowhorn.  There is supposed to be a nice one in the museum there.  I will be online using my phone though....me always needs some MSW time....lol.
 
Planking has started...today.
 
The facstle is completed.  Nothing to really add except that I followed the planking scheme provided on the plans.   You can see that here.  You guys may of course change it.  I cut these from a 3/64" sheet following the plans rather than use strips.  There is quite a pronounced curve to these and they are small enough so it wasnt a chore.  I basically traced the plan sheet.  Tweaked and sanded to suit.  I used a #4H pencil to simulate the caulking between the planks.
 
Progress below.  One plank at a time.  The outermost planks are the hardest but not terrible.