Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Looks good, Eric. Glad to read you're feeling better. Joint recovery can be tedious.- 599 replies
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- 3
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Chief, well done. This airedale gives you 2 thumbs up. 👍👍
- 31 replies
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- 3
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- ethan allen
- submarine
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I've had some model RR laser kits that use something called "laserboard". It's pretty thin stuff, with no grain, since it's a paper product. Used to build up steel framing for air vents with prototypical flimsy appearance. The Chief's fins look like they are a similar material.
- 31 replies
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- 3
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- ethan allen
- submarine
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Great news on the family front, Frank. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.
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Robert, that build is on hiatus. Maybe another Ken? I'm currently thrashing on SMS Seydlitz with COG and RGL.
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Scott, try applying the tape to your jeans to take a little stickum off the tape. And maybe blend the two painted areas with a piece of a brown paper sack. Its like a very fine sandpaper. Start slowly and don't press too hard; you're blending the painted surfaces.
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That Western Approaches camouflage is tame compared to the design Dan P is putting on his USS Leviathan. And check out the Measure 3X series of US Navy camo: http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measures.htm
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Nicely done, Alan. Looks ready to go.
- 125 replies
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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After ripping through half a pack of carbide drills, I'm back to high speed steel bits. But buy in bulk, we'll go thru a bunch with all the drilling. I've got a slow running electric hand drill for all these holes. Can't set up in a drill press and pin vises will take forever.
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The Trucolor paints are acetone based, so mask up and glove up. They do have a slew of colors. This is the rejuvenated Accu-paint line of many years ago. Model building experts amongst the model RR fraternity recommend priming under this paint. It doesn't adhere to resins and some plastics. So I'd recommend a priming taping test on the plastic. Spray your primer on one half of your test piece, let dry, lay some masking tape across the primer and the bare plastic. Spray or brush your color and let dry. Remove the tape and see what gets pulled off.
- 140 replies
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- 4
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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Ron, you might want to use 4 ought steel wool. It's go into solution faster than the nails. I use it as a wood stain on my models.
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Denis, check the bottom of page 2. That box is chock full of resin, wood, brass and stainless steel.
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The USN is pretty good at turning acronyms into words, too. CNTRA is Sinatra? But yeah, we do like those acronyms.
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Carl, get a good fitting breathing mask with chemical filters to reduce the CA fumes effects. Those inexpensive dust masks won't do much, but I use a 3M one and it helps with the CA, acetone and MEK fumes. You do have to replace filters occasionally. And maybe an exhaust fan, to reduce stress from the odors, with the rest of your household.
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Western NC was a balmy 50F or so, with rain showers. Sawdust is good, too. Glues are usually easier to work with especially not using much photo etch. But, it's all fun! Nice shell hole in that last photo there. The deploying/furling of these nets must have been a real drill. I can't imagine trying to move the ship with those deployed, but I guess they did it.
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And I even looked it up, Jack! Badly trained fingers. Yes, bending PE will be a new skill. All my previous work was simple bends.This will be a big step up.
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Denis, I do. Just waited for the "bling" to show up. Now the fun begins. Making holes in the hull for various and sundry purposes. Hobbyboss didn't get every nuance of this battlecruiser. Some will be up to our interpretation of available photos. Greg has been a hero digging up shots. Art, Carl enjoys spreading his "talents" around, whether it's an Aussie or a Yank. We're all targets. You could join Jack12377 with a build of a Fletcher class DD. Or try a sub. The boat is usually pretty basic, but you will learn some new painting skills.
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