Jump to content

Canute

NRG Member
  • Posts

    6,135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Canute

  1. Cap'n, let me add my "Well Done" to the heap of kudoes you're amassing. Thanks for sharing your build.
  2. If I may, I'd vote for her at her finest. Semi-dismantled ships are lost on the average joe. Just my two cents.
  3. Grant, most excellent! As you well know, follow the Doc and therapists' directions. You'll be back to normal in no time, mate. To your health.
  4. Best of luck with your operation/recovery. See you on the other side, mate.
  5. Wow, it's been a month since I updated this. Life keeps intruding with gotta do's and must do's. All I can do is keep on truckin'. I mirrored the plank bends on the starboard side with the sheer and garboard, except I had an oops. I was bending the garboard dry, just a preliminary curve to the hood end, when "snap". I busted about an inch or so off. This is basswood, so I reached for the yellow glue. Set it up and left it over night. Next time I could work it, I popped it into a pan of boiling water to "loosen" it up. Slid it up onto the frame and pop goes the glued joint. To my chagrin I grabbed the water resistant glue, not the Tight bond III water-proof stuff. Darn Hench squirrels of the"Squirrel Whisperer"! So, after a suitable drying period, I applied the correct glue. About this time , the Admiral walks in and asks me when I was gonna build a steam box or some such thing for doing planks. Wha?? I'm thinking I don't want to go thru too many more delays, cobbling up a box and steam maker. Oh, yeah, I just remembered. The Master (Chuck P) has a video on planking using heat from a blow dryer. I dutifully reviewed the video and said " I can do that". So, I clamped the garboard into place, turned the hair dryer to full hot and played it over the end for 3-5 minutes. Had to anchor everything down on the bench; the little huffer puts out quite a volume of hot air. Could have launched a flying squirrel. Plank end looked OK, so I went and did some other things. {Cut sticks to build up a telegraph office for my club's garden railroad}. Came back after a cooling off period and Viola! a bent garboard. Hope to get this all glued up so I can proceed with planking the hull, but we have company coming for Easter. I doubt the Admiral will let me play in the shop. Maybe Monday, after my trip to the doc for my annual exam. Happy Easter and Passover to all who observe.
  6. Hornet, great little mod to hang the serving rope on. I'll have to make one for my machine.
  7. Cap'n, how about using a toothpaste or similar tube. Or smooth surfaced paper napkins. They can look like canvas. Make some lumpy, paint in a linen color. Or aluminum foil.
  8. Matt, yea, sort of like what was on a lot of American Civil War ships, on both sides. If you look at the bows of USS Choctaw or CSS Virginia, you'll see what I mean. The Rebs used them more than the Union, but most Brown Water Union ships had rams. Rams prior to steam were kind of big, thinking way back to the Greeks & Romans. Although, the Mediterranean galleys had rams. I just don't know what their configuration was. Ramming, to my mind, is a way to prevent the other ship from moving; but you then have to patch a hole to take it back to your "lair" and remove the cargo. Would a pirate strip a ship on the high seas and then sink the hulk? I don't know; guess I'm applying too much of my tactical training and over-thinking a fun project.
  9. You'll have to find out if the little blighters are adding sweep ports, if they are adding a ram. Tough to back up once you ram another ship, if all you have are sails..
  10. Lookin' good, Cap'n! "Mo betta" with billowing sails. Alas, now you need to get cracking to populate the launch.
  11. May I smite it with my Enfield .58 cal. Then apply cold steel for insurance purposes.
  12. Tasmanian, white glue will give you more working time with the PE. Even the thickest cyano will invariably set up before you get the PE in position. Use a micro-brush to carefully apply some white glue where you intend to apply the PE part, let the glue thicken/set up and then attach the PE part. Put the micro-brush in water when you aren't using it to apply glue. After you have attached your PE parts, go back and put a dot of cyano at the attachment point with a pin or unraveled paperclip. Better control of the glue. Kind of a belt and suspenders approach, but it works well. Another glue you might look for is called Canopy glue. The RC airplane crowd use it to glue canopies on . It looks to me like a thickened white glue.
  13. Once you seal the wood, the stains, etc., don't work. It will be blotchy. You may want to redo you test with sealed wood.
  14. maybe try heating the juice up to enhance the reaction? Might want to do it in a double boiler setup to control the speed of heating, since you are first just heating up water. Application of heat usually speeds up reactions like these. You're just cooking the steel shot in lemon juice
  15. Hope the boiler folks gave you a good start time. We get companies that give you an 8 hour window for their work. Look at it as Unintended consequences, you're getting work done on Convulsion.
  16. Looks like you have some space amidships for those carronades. And your stern extension is looking good, too.
  17. Those two Nutz brothers are short-fused! And bad tempered. Makes for good P-rates I guess. Careful over gunning that beauty, making it top heavy. Swivels for anti-personnel are probably OK. More carronades, while cool looking, may be pushing it. Put a couple midships, maybe make 'em pivot to either side? Ship's for taking booty, not blastin' boats out of the water, eh?
  18. Al, good to see you back. I, too, am building a Bounty Launch, though I'm only at the start of planking.. So, I've been reading all the MSW build logs. All have useful techniques. Thanks for sharing.
  19. Very nice work, Ken. I too will be following along with your build. Thanks for sharing.
×
×
  • Create New...