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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Lou, in your mind's eye, you gotta make believe it's 1965 and you're on a date. Otherwise, yeah, it's like kissing yer sister. (Guess you lost some spark with the wife, eh?)
  2. Ditto. Gave it up as my eyes have deteriorated, but that should be fixed, come March. Hopefully. Love the range of ships, but super-detailing them is a distant dream.
  3. Lou, you'd have liked the Tilt-a-whirl or Wild Mouse rides. I love coasters and similar rides. Back when amusement parks were relatively close to cities, we had Palisades Amusement Park, on top of the palisade ridge on the Jersey side of the North (Hudson) River. It had rides, a fun house and even a large pool with a wave-making machine. Great way to spend time. Had a wooden roller coaster that I always went on and and the already mentioned Wild Mouse. This thing had you whipping around and at one point you are looking at the Upper West Side of Manhattan, with nothing else around. Then, you got whipped a very hard 90 degree left and continued the ride. Eye-watering fun. Many folks don't like feeling their inner ear balance center opposing what their bodies are telling them. Part of our training as aviators was to overcome that fear and trust our eyes looking at our instruments. I've had it happen to me on a clear night, flying at low altitude over the Everglades. We both thought the Keys were the horizon, but couldn't understand why we were turning right. Check all the gauges and believe what you're seeing, not what you are feeling.
  4. Structures are like other kits. Being a laser cut one, makes the basic construction pretty straight forward. Ho you finish can make it pop. You've got the skills; you've already done weathering and have diorama making experience. Visualize the structure in your mind and compare it with what you observe in your village or town. Take pictures of details you want to replicate in La Haye Sainte. Like I tell many model railroaders, work from pictures of the real thing.
  5. I'd second all of Mike's suggestions. The Tamiya tools are good working with the smaller parts.
  6. I would think if you perused some model railroad sites, you'd see paper shingles of those styles of cuts. I've seen them for structures over here. Having a little 3 dimensional effect would bring the scene up a notch.
  7. I'd love to see a 50s era "hook and Ladder" truck. My uncle took me on a few rides on the tiller when I was a little guy. Needed them for all the mills and factories in town.
  8. Yep, there was. Those leg straps went away with the F-15 and later jets, I believe. Maybe leg flailing was no longer an issue. We had straps just above the knee and down by the ankle. They were usually laying on the floor of the cockpit, when we strapped in. I think the Thud had similar; they had to put their straps on under the g-suit and they had big D rings on the insides of their legs. I know the F-104 had strap on "spurs" near the ankle, for clipping their feet into the base of the seat. I did some practice "ejections" in pilot training. Strapped into T-33 seat attached to some almost vertical rails. The ground-crew popped a 37mm charge into the seat bottom and we were told to raise arm rests and fire the seat. Heck of a bang and we went 30 or so feet up the rails. Yahoo, a red ticket ride!
  9. Very cool, even has the stucco breaking up. Will you have to shingle/tile the roof portions or just paint? Medium density fiberboard, I take it?
  10. Kurt, thanks. I've been an enamel/lacquer sprayer and wanted to use all these acrylics. These couple of videos and one on another site on Mission Model paint have me interested in them. These 2 that Ron brought in are the first I'd seen discussing the nozzle. My old Badger 360 is in need of a major overhaul, when I saw I had a bent tip.
  11. Nicely done. You'd think it was a Snap-Tite kit. Fits right into your scene.
  12. Ron, That first video was extremely helpful with covering those 6 different acrylics. Thanks
  13. Ejecting at high speeds will do things like that. Wind blast, arm flail, spinal compression fractures. Not a pretty picture. Flying is a dangerous game, folks. Most newer jets have 2 sets of handles to initiate ejection sequencing. In the F-4, sitting in the trunk, I planned on ejecting using the overhead loops around takeoffs, since the stick was almost in my lap when we rotated the nose up and blocked the loop on the seat kit, between my legs. Lower handle was better at controlled bailout at our normal cruising speeds. It kept one's arms tucked in toward the legs, reducing the risk of arm flail injuries. At high speed, I'd go back to the overhead loops, because it also allowed me to pull a face screen over my helmet to kind of keep my head centered in the seat back parachute container. And I'd start saying my prayers,...
  14. On metals and resins, a swipe with acetone or denatured alcohol should clean most of that. I've washed resin boxcar kits in Dawn and warm water (not sealed up though) to remove mold release, plastic/resin dust and finger prints. Dry the kit, but don't touch it with bare hands after that. Rubber gloves are fine. Sometimes you may need to etch brass. Usually some kind of mild acid, such as white vinegar, does the trick. A short bath should do (5 min). Again, don't touch with your bare hands after you've cleaned it.
  15. Guys who used the "silk let down" say it hurt for several days. Neck, butt, some times arms. Like Denis says, assume the proper position.
  16. That's a good primer and light gray should work. It's the translucent yellow. Strip and redo or try a second coat? I'd try a second coat. If its still like that, do-over time.
  17. Yes, yellows are translucent, like the tube label says (as are reds) and the primer is critical. Add another coat of yellow, taking some of the sheen off to get the next coat to stick.
  18. Yeah, you could get hurt, but that was/is true of many of those seats. All depends on body position when you fire the seat.
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