ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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The model? Or the full-size boat? The full-size one can really move, and it would be a great project for anyone who lives near a large body of water, like the Delaware River. -
Eberhard, I saw that your wonderful build log had never been tagged as finished! I have belatedly rectified that oversight.
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Sound advice! I had more or less the same experience with spiling
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Well done!
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We used to have more detailed instructions, including directions on how to append the medium (wood is the default medium) to the end of the title, but it made little or no difference in the number of titles that we ended up tidying. I'm happy if new members get their titles 75% 'correct'. As you pointed out, looking at existing log titles is the best way to see how it's done.
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I have to admit that I'm a little envious about the full-time narrowboat plan. I told my wife that we have enough equity in our home to sell it and pay cash for a narrowboat, but she wasn't keen on the idea -- my loss!
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Engine mounted. I wasn't happy with the placement of the machine guns. Since they're made of paper, removing them understandably made a hash of them, so I ended up replacing them with styrene rod. And cowling on. I can't believe I've only been working on the engine and cowl for thirteen days -- it feels like ages. The next task will be to sort out the exhaust stubs.
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I'm a fan of the transitional sail-to-steam period, too. I have always thought that USS Petrel (PG-2) would make a very interesting model.
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Welcome aboard! At the risk of ruining any future good name you might have acquired among this august company, might I suggest you take a look at card models? They do not require lots of time, space, tools, or capital outlay (a big plus for starving students). You can check some out by clicking here. Cheers!
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The saga continues -- probably would have been easier to just build the card engine! First we had to carefully remove the original engine mount and rebuild it to the desired thickness. Next we wired the cylinders. I only added half of the spark plug wires -- I'm just hinting at their existence, not replicating them in all of their glorious detail. After all, little of them will actually be visible. Fuselage guns added. And lastly, the oil cooler intake is added -- this will help position the cowling. I think I'm more or less ready to mount the engine now, but I need all my wits about me when I attempt the job.
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Hi, folks. Consider this a gentle reminder about our forum guidelines regarding signatures: We have some members whose signatures are getting very lengthy indeed! This is not something that our small staff wishes to spend hours ruthlessly purging, so we are counting on the members to kindly self-moderate. Thanks for your cooperation! P.S. If a member wishes to see every topic a member has created, they can easily do so by going to the member's profile page and clicking the "see my activity" button. The results can be filtered for 'posts' (i.e., all posts) or just 'topics'.
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Very handsomely done!
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Finished the surgery on the engine. I used a cutting ball with my Dremel tool for the rough work and finished it off with files. You can see that in addition to cutting the grooves for the machine gun channels and removing the rear of the block, I also had to file the top of one rear cylinder completely flat, as well as file off the tops of all of the rear cylinder valve covers. 😩 Now, if only the engine would have fit inside the cowling after all that work! It did -- but the engine, and thus the cowl along with it, still sits too far forward when test fitted to the front fuselage. Still more work to do!
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We can see now that this will be a POB design.
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These are the gaps I was referring to: In the book you can see that there are no gaps:
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Most of the cowl interior is done now. Some sloppy fitting here and there -- my fault, since much of the work could only be done while viewing with one eye, which ruins depth perception of course. I also installed the two tiny spacers inside the middle section of duct work upside down, meaning the ugly seam shows, which shouldn't be too visible on the final assembly. Next step will be the necessary modifications to the engine cylinders to get that darn thing to fit inside the cowl.
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I could be wrong about this, but I think the openings in the door panel should be just large enough to straddle the bitts. I think this is an error (i.e., openings too large) that I made on HMS Fly, but that was along time ago.
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Done! I'd like to see this thread gain some traction.
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Al, would you mind if I re-titled this topic to make it more apparent that it's a kit development thread?
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Any West Coast lumber schooner would be cool -- especially if it came from the Bendixsen yard.
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T-90 by Mikegr - FINISHED - AM - 1/72 - PLASTIC
ccoyle replied to mikegr's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Kit looks like it has a lot of detail. -
Oh, please please please say CA Thayer!!
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