ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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It's one of the kits that has parts printed on the inside back cover. P.S. I don't build card armor kits. Never have, never will. One word: tracks. 😑- 126 replies
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Parts identification in Soleil Royal kit
ccoyle replied to Late to Soleil's topic in Plastic model kits
I can't answer your question, but I've moved your topic on the assumption that this is a plastic kit you're asking about. I've also edited your title to try and get you more readers. -
Welcome aboard!
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Welcome aboard!
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Any stage of progress is fine.
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Welcome aboard! I have a soft spot for Tanzania -- I used to keep African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika.
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Moin, moin, Kai! I look forward to seeing your work.
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Sometimes. Depends on how much manhandling I think the part might get. I usually wick in some thin CA. Of course, my current bottle of thin CA is now more like thick CA, so if I need any, I'm gonna hafta run to Hobby Lobby.
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Phantom of the Opera by MisterMeester - Atlantis - 1/8
ccoyle replied to MisterMeester's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Can't remember if I ever built any of the monster models, but I knocked out my share of dinosaurs. I think most of us of a certain age have probably built a few novelty kits. -
No problem! 😉 Just remember that all of the framing in a card kit is essentially made out of beer coasters. The parts are regrettably intolerant of any sort of rough handling.
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Did you pre-soak the bulwarks? Best thing to do is to soak the plywood until it can easily be bent, then temporarily pin the piece to the hull (no glue) and allow it to dry. The shaped piece is then much easier to glue in place.
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SMS Karlsruhe by Wreck1919 - 1/100
ccoyle replied to Wreck1919's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I think I got motion sickness just from looking at the pictures. 🤢 -
And there, my friend, is where you'd run into all kinds of trouble. Internal cockpit framing invariably needs some sanding to get the skins to fit properly, otherwise one runs into the problems alluded to in Ab's earlier post. The whole reason for leaving the X-marked portion in is to give that part some rigidity for shaping; remove it too early, and you'll have two very weak pieces of cockpit framing essentially dangling helplessly in space, just begging to be damaged. But no worries -- I'll get it all sorted.
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A few small steps forward . . . In this first image, you can see what I meant earlier about the confusing diagrams. Compare the actual fuselage assembly with what is depicted in the diagram. That second-from-left-bulkhead is much closer to the aft-most bulkhead in real life than it is in the drawing. And you can also see a pair of locator slots on the finished structure that are not shown in the diagram -- those slots turned out to be necessary for the part that glues in from the other side. These two discrepancies were very confusing for awhile. And next up we have something I have never seen in a kit before, not even a Halisnski kit. The part marked A8 (a deck behind the pilot's seat) has a section, marked with an X in the image, that is supposed to be cut out and then temporarily reattached before gluing the deck in. But even before that, the cockpit floor piece is supposed to be glued in first -- except that if one does that, one can't add the A8 part afterwards. 🫤 I'm gonna have to think about this one a bit. Sometimes, assembling a card model is a lot like rigging a wooden ship model -- you have to have an assembly sequence worked out in advance in your mind before you start gluing bits in. Cheers!
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Looking more impressive with each update!
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That lesson was painfully seared into my memory by my second Halinski build, the Brewster B-239, which now sits on the Shelf of Shame.
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Wow, looks great! Congratulations!
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If you know your Old Testament, it's kinda one of those "Aaron and the golden calf" things -- I threw in some wood and metal and out came those shelves. 🫢
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Welcome aboard! Your Titanic looks very nice from here.
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Here's the new shelves that mysteriously appeared while my wife was away in California.
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