ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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P-51D Mustang by CDW - FINISHED - Dragon - 1:32 Scale
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hmm . . . card publishers and plastic kit manufacturers seem to have an affinity for the same subjects.
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That's actually quite common in kits these days. The big problem, though, for this particular aircraft is the feathered edges between the brown and green areas of camouflage. Such edges are difficult to replicate neatly. But for this particular seam (and whatever others may result from my misalignment mishap), I'm determined to put it out of mind until I'm ready to attach the forward fuselage. No sense fretting about it before I get there.
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Some progress on the forward fuselage, starting with the skins, joiner strips, and joiner tabs cut out and edge colored, then glued together to make the four fuselage sections. Then the skins are shaped and glued into tubes, here shown with their bulkheads. After some sanding to assure that the fits weren't too tight, the bulkheads were then glued in and allowed to dry. Here's the first two sections glued together and test-fitted to the cockpit section. You can see where one of the "hideous seams" I described earlier will occur, though it is not as bad as I feared it might be. And that's it for today.
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What? Create extra work?? 😧
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Which is why I double-checked the fit before gluing and got bit anyway. But, happily, seams can be fixed -- they can be papered over, one might say.
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Albatros by Dulrakk - OcCre - 1:100
ccoyle replied to Dulrakk's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
A 10 km spool? 😯 -
That's what sets the masters apart from the rest of us.
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A semi-disastrous day today. After test-fitting the wrap-around outer cockpit skin TWICE, during which tests it seemed to fit loosely, I glued one side on, only to discover that the other side was too short! I managed to get the glued side off before it had completely set, but not without some minor damage to the paper, resulting in some faint crinkling. Then, onward with Try #2. First side went on fine, but the other side wound up slightly crooked -- which I noticed only AFTER it was too late to do anything about it. As a result, I will eventually have at least one, probably two, somewhat hideous seams to repair. Fun. 🙄 Construction now moves on to the forward fuselage. Unlike later Halinski designs, the nose section of this kit has no longitudinal frame, only transverse bulkheads -- I suspect this will yield a somewhat delicate structure.
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Welcome aboard!
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Rudder yoke and instrument panel installed. The kit doesn't supply extra parts for adding depth to the panel. It could be done by photocopying the panel to create an extra layer, but I was too lazy. Hey, at least I'm honest! I should add that I do have the Hurricane Mk. IIc kit from Kartonowa Kolekcja, and that kit does have parts for doubling the instrument panel.
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Welcome, Christian! You did a fabulous job on your Endeavour!
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Yes, but he's talking about recent activity. That I can't vouch for, but perhaps some of our European connections, such as @0Seahorse, can shed more light.
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They're like Lay's potato chips -- no one can build just one!
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- card
- Revenue Cutter
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QUICK-FIND INDEXES to BUILD LOGS FOR KITS
ccoyle replied to Dan Vadas's topic in - Index of all kits by brand and subject
I already moved it once this morning, so I don't know why it still showed up in Nautical General Discussion. Anyhoo, I have moved it again. Hopefully it sticks this time. -
Just like a plastic or wood kit, a card kit can be modified and/or detailed to the modeler's content. Some highly skilled card modelers will even cut out exterior panels on planes and add internal details like engines and gun bays that were not included in the original kit. It's also possible to use 1/32nd scale after-market parts for 1/33rd scale card kits, but the cost of those details usually defeats the most significant advantage of card models, namely their affordability compared to other media. Same goes for using 3D-printed resin parts for ship models; in the case of my USS England build, I deemed the extra cost of those parts (and they weren't cheap) to be justifiable in light of the results they produced. The pre-cut frames are just a convenience -- saves a lot of time spent cutting out thicker parts, which is hard on craft knife blades. The cost of laser-cut frames is well worth the marginal extra cost, IMO. Same goes for wheels -- I have made many sets of wheels from laminated disks sanded down to the proper shape, but the resin wheels save a lot of work and look much better. Cheers!
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That would be Brian Lavery. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=books+by+brian+lavery
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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I couldn't resist attempting to add some extra detail to the control column, though there is much more that could have been added. There's actually a nightmarish web of tubing, rods, and wiring in the floor of a real Hurricane, but I have my limits.
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I have some Dutch in my family tree, too, although my Dutch ancestors emigrated to what was then known as "New Amsterdam" around 1650.
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Those are credible boats.
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Surely there must be at least a little trepidation about cutting apart a hull like that, even if it is a necessary part of the process.
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I started this kit many years ago, but only got as far as the decking before I decided I wasn't happy with my work up to that point, plus I also kinda fell out of love with solid hulls. Nevertheless, the kit makes a beautiful model for those who finish it, and I'll be wishing you well as I follow along on your project. Cheers!
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Well done! Congratulations on reaching the finish line!
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