ccoyle

Hi, Madison, and welcome to MSW. I'm no expert on old models, movie props or otherwise, but your post raises a few questions: How do you know this is a movie prop? From whom did you acquire the model? Did they know it was a movie prop? If so, how did they know? Without some hints about the model's provenance, I doubt there's anyone in our ranks who can fill in the missing details. Kind regards,

Outstanding!

Yeah, that's the first I've ever heard of a manufacturer doing that for a customer. Can't beat that for customer service! I wonder if Chris'd do the same thing for anyone building HMS Pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis? 🤔

Model Expo has sales coming and going all the time. Never pay MSRP for one of their kits -- it'll go on sale sooner or later. This being October, they'll probably be offering "spook-tacular savings" before long.

Handsomely done! Looks like Academy went a little overboard on the rivets, but one really only notices that on the close-up shots.

Congrats on finishing your lovely model!

Up here in Greer, most of the damage was caused by falling trees -- LOTS of falling trees! Fortunately for us, we live in a neighborhood built just five years ago, so there aren't any mature trees, except on the properties adjoining the neighborhood. A couple of those did come down and cause minor damage. Outside the neighborhood, it was a different story -- trees down everywhere, roads washed out, lots of downed power lines. There are still people without power a week after the storm. It's a mess!

I have used watercolor pens and markers for edge coloring off and on for many years. The trouble with them is they tend to bleed into cut paper edges. So, of late, I have only been using them when they are a very close color match and/or in places where the bleeding will be difficult or even impossible to see. As you know, I mostly use custom-mixed acrylic craft paints for edge coloring. They are dirt cheap, but mixing them can be hit-and-miss, and then of course they have to be applied with a brush, which is kind of a pain. Enter AK Real Colors acrylic paint markers. When I learned of the existence of these markers, I knew I had to try them. And, since they are not terribly expensive (though by no means cheap), I decided to get the 34-color boxed set. Real Colors are aimed at the plastic modeling world and thus come in a variety of specifically military colors -- not the gaudy colors that watercolor pens typically come in. The boxed set has been out of stock everywhere for months, but AK has them back in production now. I ordered directly from AK -- took three days to get here via DHL. Fast, but again, not cheap -- though the price from AK + shipping was probably about what I would have had to pay from a US supplier. Anyways, I have tried out several colors on the 109, and they are close matches, though not exact. No bleeding at all. The real test will be when I get around to doing some seams. Stay tuned!

Fantastic model, Andrew! Love the crew figures!

Mmmmm, beefy!

Welcome aboard! One of our members shared some thoughts on jumping directly into the 1st rate waters. There are lots of quality kits available these days that depict smaller men-of-war, e.g., cutters, schooners, gun brigs. Still plenty of guns and rigging, but on a scale more conducive to beginner success.

I got a lot done over the past few days. First here is a shot of the port cockpit wall . . . . . . and the starboard cockpit wall. Much of that work will be invisible once the cockpit inner skins are glued on and covered by the outer skin, like so: Work will now commence on the forward fuselage.

Welcome aboard!

Good luck with your project!

Going forward, my progress may be more than the usual intermittent. I have a large collection of family photos I've been meaning to archive for years, and the necessary supplies arrived at the house today. I have to get this done before I die, because no one else in the family knows who most of the people in the photos are. 😮

Hi, gents. I split this discussion off into its own topic.

Congratulations! That's a very handsome model!

Cockpit framing is done.

And just like that, the inner cockpit details are completed. Next I will add the remaining cockpit framing and move on to the inner cockpit skins, where all the wall-mounted goodies go.

Welcome, Tula! The rig is a double-topsail schooner. The artist appears to have had at least some knowledge of ship construction, although, at least to my eye, the hull is very crude in comparison to the rigging. This would have been a very common type of ship on both sides of the Atlantic during the time period you mention. That's about all I can add to the conversation.

Cockpit seat added. Believe it or not, some masochists actually replace the paper strap buckles with wire. I am not a masochist. 😑

Welcome aboard!

Very nice finish!

Good eye! What's really weird (other than the odd location of the part in the diagrams) is that there was a "cut out" symbol on the part that 2d gets glued to -- which in retrospect seems kind of pointless. Anyways, here's the finished pedals and duct work. This stuff will largely be invisible on the finished model. And here's why it will be largely invisible. One new option in the E-7 kit compared to the older E-4 is the option for glazed instruments, which I have included for this model.

The first bits of cockpit. Looks shockingly like an E-4 cockpit. (The reason for that is that the only significant difference between the E-4 and E-7 variants is that the latter was equipped to carry a drop tank, which roughly doubled the Emil's range.) I have no idea where part 2d goes (it doesn't go on any of the white spaces you can see in the photo). It's a filler cap of some kind. It is not indicated on any of the diagrams, and I have been unable to locate it in any online resources. As a general note to anyone considering a Halinski kit, it really pays to work slowly, study the diagrams, and think about the sequence of parts to be installed. Once some things go in, it may be difficult to install things that come after. But sometimes the numerical sequence of the parts is not always the most sensible order to follow. Usually it is, but not always.