ccoyle

V108 will be built on a skeleton consisting of a set of frames, much like any wood kit. These frames will be made by laminating the printed parts onto a piece of 1 mm card. All the parts that need laminating on each sheet are indicated with an asterisk. Different types of thick card are available. The piece you see in the photo is chipboard, used for backing glued-up pads of paper. It is also possible to laminate multiple sheets of regular card stock until the desired thickness is achieved. The latter option is easier on #11 blades. It doesn't hurt to check that the printed parts are, in fact, supposed to be 1 mm thick. In this photo, I've checked the locator lines on the hull base plate to verify that the longitudinal profile frame should be 1 mm thick. And here I've checked the thickness of the parts sheet and chipboard together. The combined thickness is slightly less than 1 mm, which is good. The spray adhesive itself adds some thickness. Next, give all four parts sheets a couple of light coats of matte clear spray varnish. This gives the parts sheets a little bit of added stiffness and some protection against accidental spills. When the sheets have dried thoroughly, we can laminate the parts that need to be 1 mm thick. You'll have to separate the 1 mm parts from the other parts on the sheets. Follow the directions on the can of 3M 77 spray adhesive and glue the parts to the chipboard or other card stock. You may find that the glued-up sheets want to curl a bit. You can offset this by stacking some heavy books on the flat sheets while allowing them to dry overnight. By now you may have noticed that the parts sheets include the necessary pieces for building the hull below the waterline. I'll be building the model as a waterline model. Card model hulls below the waterline are very difficult to get 'right'. Since this may be a first model for you, I'm opting to eliminate the hassle. Next it will be time for cutting and gluing! Back to Part IV: Tools & Other Supplies

UPDATED DECEMBER 2024 And now the part you've been waiting for: What are we going to build? Answer: We will build the 1/200 scale V108 torpedo boat from Digital Navy. Here are some reasons why I chose this model: I have it already. Having never built it before, I'll have more motivation to build it. You and I will encounter the inherent construction problems together at the same time. All card models, regardless of quality, present some problems during construction; overcoming those problems is a necessary acquired skill. It is a reasonably-sized model -- neither too big nor too small. It is not overly difficult based on its low parts count. It is a torpedo boat, and torpedo boats are cool. You will first need to print the model. Roman at Digital Navy has kindly allowed MSW to host the files here. Be sure to visit his web site and perhaps send a note of thanks -- maybe even spend a few dollars! Each of the four pages is a separate PDF. Download the files to your computer: Page one is a cover sheet. V108 diag1.pdf Page two contains construction diagrams. Construction diagrams are very important for card models. Many, if not most, card models are produced in non-English-speaking countries. Translated instructions, if provided at all, can be confusing -- like the infamous Italian-to-English instructions in some wood kits. Diagrams are therefore the chief construction guide for most card models. The number, completeness, and clarity of them can make or break a build. V108 diag2.pdf Pages three and four are parts sheets. Two pages of parts is a small number for a card model. V108 sheet1.pdf V108 sheet2.pdf Depending on your printer's capabilities, you can print the model at normal resolution or at 'best quality' for better color density. You may also need to tell your printer that you are printing on card stock. You can print the first two pages (cover sheet and diagrams) on 20 lb bond paper, i.e., regular printer paper. The pages are formatted in 26 cm x 19 cm, so they should fit on either 8.5 x 11 or A4. You'll want to print the parts pages on 20 lb bond as well. Sometimes it is easier to form parts from the thinner bond paper. Obviously, the parts sheets also need to be printed on card stock. After all, it's a card model. Finding card stock can be intimidating, because it comes in different thicknesses and its weight is measured differently depending on which country you reside in. The easiest way to get some is to go to your local stationery store and simply ask for "card stock" - chances are, whatever they direct you to will work. Once you have the model printed, it will be time to prep the parts.

First of all, never download a model from a third party file sharing site. Always download models from the designer's own web site or a site authorized to host them. Second, never buy CD's claiming to have "hundreds of models" from auction sites like eBay -- these are inevitably scans of commercial kits. If you shop at eBay or somewhere similar on-line, make sure the seller displays a photo of the printed kit booklet; it should have an artwork cover with the publisher's name plainly visible.

UPDATED JULY 2024 Only a few tools are needed to get started in card modeling. At the very least, you need a cutting tool and some glue. Everything else is optional. Here are some basic tools: You'll need a self-healing cutting mat, available from most office supply or crafts stores. Next, you need something to cut with. Most card modelers do not use scissors. A garden-variety craft knife does the job nicely and with more precision. Some card modelers use scalpels. Get a good supply of #11 blades -- card can be surprisingly hard on them. A steel rule is a must, not just for measuring, but more importantly for cutting straight lines. Glue is, of course, essential. A variety of glues will work. Each has its own merits and drawbacks. PVA glue, either white (e.g., Elmer's) or yellow (wood glue) are good general purpose glues. Lately I have grown fond of Evergreen's Canopy Glue, which is a PVA-type glue that grabs quickly and dries fast. Bear in mind that PVA glues are water-based, and card can absorb the glue and deform. PVA is therefore not a good choice for gluing large surfaces together. Cyanoacrylate glue, or CA ('Super Glue'), has its uses. Fast-cure CA can be wicked into card stock to stiffen it. Medium-cure CA is useful for gluing parts made of different media together, as well as for paper-to-paper bonds. Contact cement (not to be confused with rubber cement) is a non-water-based glue and thus good for gluing large surfaces together. Contact cement sets rapidly, so repositioning of parts once they come in contact with each other is not possible. Now, on to some optional items. From left to right: blackened, annealed wire - an assortment of diameters is useful for making gun barrels, railings, etc. styrene rod - card can be rolled into tubes, but styrene is often a better choice assorted paint brushes - for painting and as aids for rolling tubes tweezers paint, marking pens, or other media for coloring cut edges (more on this later) calipers - for measuring card stock thickness, especially when laminating sheets together hobby pliers (not pictured) - for cutting and forming wire (end nippers, needle nose, round nose) Some other useful items to have are thin, flexible, clear acetate sheets (for glazing windows), matte clear spray varnish (for prepping parts sheets), and 3M spray adhesive (for laminating card and/or paper sheets together). 3M costs more than other brands, but take my advice, it's worth the money. Cheaper brands don't coat as evenly and produce clumpier spray patterns. Trust me -- I learned this the hard way. I'll add other items if I remember them. Now, go get your supplies and let's build a model! Back to Part III: Shopping for Card Models On to Part V: Building V108 - The Hull

UPDATED 7/2024 This tutorial is based on a free kit. But supposing you wished to buy a paper model kit, where could you get one? Let's start with The Big Question on everyone's mind: Who makes the 'best' kits? The first thing you must do is separate in your mind the concepts of best kit and best kit designer. They are not the same thing. Some designers publish their own models, but many don't. Their kits are printed by various publishing houses -- often more than one. This fact makes it difficult to generalize about this publisher versus that publisher. Your favorite designer might have his designs printed by multiple publishers. The lesson here is that it pays to take note of who designed a particular kit you like. Then you look for that designer's work at various publishing houses. Another thing to make note of is a kit's date of publication. CAD designing did not become commonplace until about the turn of the new century. Prior to that, kits were hand drawn. Thus, the older a kit is, the more likely it is to be hand-drawn. This doesn't mean that hand-drawn kits are necessarily bad. It just means that an older kit may not live up to the current standards detail, fit, and artwork. With all that in mind, let's take a look at some of the major publishing firms. This is by no means an exhaustive list. It's just to give you a sample of what's available. You can follow the embedded links to each publisher's website. WAK: This is currently my favorite Polish publisher and shop, as they have the best shipping rates to the US. GPM: GPM are one of the largest card model publishers in Poland. They have a large selection of ship models in many scales, both in their own line and from many other publishers as well. They also have an extensive inventory of after-market accessories. Modelik: Modelik carries only their own line of models, but as discussed previously, these are not all the work of one designer. Modelik kits are generally well-regarded in the hobby. JSC: JSC have an extensive line of ship models. They are one of the few Polish publishers to offer a large selection of models in scales other than the usual 1/200 favored in that country. JSC kits are normally either 1/250 or 1/400. Many of JSC's kits are older, hand-drawn designs. Kartonowy Arsenal (KA): Better known as Halinski, KA offer highly detailed models. KA kits are best suited for advanced modelers. Orel: This Ukrainian publisher is prolific. They offer a large selection of Czarist-era warships, sailing vessels, and Civil War ironclads, mostly in 1/200 scale. HMV: The Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag is probably the premier German ship model source. Their kits are published in 1/250 scale, the scale preferred in Germany. They have a wide selection of warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen. They also offer an extensive line of after-market detail sets. Moewe Verlag: Also known as Wilhelmshavener, this publisher has an extensive line of warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen in 1/250. Ordering from them can be kind of tricky, since many of their kits are older hand-drawn models, and this isn’t indicated in the product description. MV kits tend to be less detailed than HMV kits, but they have a broader selection and somewhat lower prices. They don’t offer after-market detail sets. J F Schreiber: Schreiber are the third major German publisher. Their kits are, as a rule, less detailed than either HMV or Moewe, but they offer more kits of simpler subjects suited to beginning modelers. They also offer more kits in 1/100 scale than other publishers. Schreiber operates an on-line store. Paper Shipwright: Designer David Hathaway’s line of kits is unique in its extensive offering of monitors. David also designs small passenger craft and working vessels. These are generally very good kits and also reasonably priced, with a fair but not overwhelming amount of detail. Paper Shipwright kits can be ordered directly from their website. Shipyard: A publisher of sailing subjects in 1/72 and 1/96 scales. Shipyard kits are available in the US from Ages of Sail. Seahorse: Sailing subjects in a variety of scales. In addition to the publishers just listed, there are some e-commerce sites that sell card models in general. I'll list a few of them here. Karton Modell Shop (Germany) Marcle Models (UK) E-Cardmodels (digital downloads only) Have fun browsing! Back to Part II: Start for FREE! On to Pt. IV: Tools & Other Supplies

The short answer to that question is "yes"! Gun barrels can be rolled from paper, scratch-built from other media, or in some cases purchased as after-market accessories in the form of turned brass or aluminum barrels. Generic fittings such as railings and ladders are available as laser-cut or PE sets, and kit-specific detail sets are also available, usually including fiddly bits such as small armament, davits, and such.

1/250 seems to be the most common scale in Germany, the UK, and the US, while 1/200 is the usual scale in Eastern Europe. 1/400 and 1/350 are also not unusual (JSC has a substantial line of 1/400 kits), and 1/100 is common for smaller vessels. Some card modelers prefer to work in a single scale and will scale kits up or down with a scanner (anyone wishing to do this, though, should keep in mind that scanning a model and then selling the original is tantamount to piracy).

UPDATED JULY 2024 How would you like try building a model for free? Not only that, but how would you like to have as many attempts at completing it as you need without buying a replacement. One of the beauties of card modeling is that you can do exactly that -- build your first model for free, or at least pretty close to free. Many card model designers and publishers offer one or more free model kits. These usually come in the form of a downloadable PDF file. You simply download the file and print the kit on appropriate card stock. Technically the kit isn't completely free, since you supply the printer, paper, and ink, but you probably already have these on hand. One thing to keep in mind when considering a downloadable model is that almost all designs from anywhere other than the U.S. are formatted for A4-size paper. Occasionally designers will make their models available in 8.5" x 11" format, but this is the exception rather than the rule. U.S. modelers will need to scale their models to fit 8.5" x 11" or print the full-size pages in multiple pieces. The latter option wastes some paper and ink on redundant parts. With a free model, if you ruin it during construction, you're not out of a lot of money. Plus, you can simply reprint one or more pages and be right back in action. A WORD OF CAUTION!! Many unscrupulous vendors scan commercially available card model kits and then host the files at third party file sharing sites. Such are not 'free models'. They've been stolen. DO NOT PATRONIZE SUCH SITES! Models obtained from such sites are pirated and thus violate MSW's site guidelines. Besides, designing card models isn't a lucrative business. When you buy card models from legitimate sources, you help out our designer friends, who are often fellow modelers as well as designers. So where can one download some free models? Here are some sites to check out: Models 'n' Moore: This site offers a number of designs by the late Magnus Morck, mostly American Civil War gunboats. Paper Shipwright: Several free models of both warships and working boats. Give them a visit! Back to Part I: What is a card model? On to Part III: Shopping for Card Models

UPDATED JULY, 2024 So what exactly is a “card model”? A card model, or paper model, is simply a model made primarily out of paper. Many modelers are surprised to learn that a ship model can be made from humble paper, but paper as a modeling medium has a long history. During World War II, paper was one of the few resources not heavily regulated due to the war effort. As a result, paper models enjoyed a brief peak in popularity, even in America. After the war, plastic model kits began to take over the market. Paper model kits eventually become scarce, except in the former East Bloc countries. Communism didn't offer much as a system of government, but it did preserve card modeling as an art form, because plastic models were prohibitively expensive. When the Cold War thawed, commerce started flowing between East and West, including CAD technology. Our card modeling friends in Eastern Europe were quick to apply computer-aided drafting to the art of designing card models. As a result, an ever-increasing number of card models became available with better artwork, more detail, and tighter fit tolerances. For the most part, the hobby is still dominated by designers and publishers from the East. Poland, in particular, is home to some of the preeminent publishing houses, including GPM, Modelik, JSC, Orlik, Maly Modelarz, and Kartonowy Arsenal. Germany is another leading producer of card models, with HMV, Moewe-Verlag, and J. F. Schreiber being some of the better-known publishers. Paper has a number of selling points as a modeling medium. Chief among these is that card kits are relatively cheap. The fact that most paper kits can still be purchased for under $20 US, even in 2024, makes them attractive candidates for modelers with small budgets. Paper Shipwright of the UK, for example, offer 44 ship designs in their catalog, none of which has a price tag greater than US$16. Of course, just as for wood or plastic kits, after-market additions can push the price of a card model project up considerably. But even with the cost of laser-cut or photo-etched details thrown in, a card model costing over US$100 is rare. In addition to being inexpensive, paper is versatile. With careful manipulation it can be molded into almost any three-dimensional shape. A third advantage of card models is that they are almost always pre-colored. The color of the finished model is printed right on the paper. Modern graphic design programs allow designers to produce card model kits with exceptionally realistic weathering. Painting or coloring of a card model is usually limited to coloring the edges of cut parts to hide seams. Finally, card models require very few tools to get started. Most people already have the basic cutting and gluing supplies in their house somewhere. One of the most compelling reasons to try card modeling is the wow factor. A card model kit that starts as a set of flat, printed sheets can be transformed into a stunning finished model. There is a learning curve, of course, but hearing someone say, “I can’t believe that’s made out of paper!” upon viewing your finished card model never gets old. An excellent one-stop site to see a variety of completed card models is the gallery at kartonowki.pl. Enjoy! Continue to Part II: Start for FREE!

Hi! I see the title of this thread has grabbed your attention. I admit I have a shameless reason for starting this series, and that is to raise the profile of card/paper as a modeling medium here at MSW. Over the years here and at MSW 1.0 a number of people have expressed an interest in trying their hand at a card model, and that's what I hope you will do after reading this series of posts. My goal is to describe the building of a simple card ship model in sufficient detail that upon reading it, anyone can say, "Gosh, I can do that!" And then, perhaps, you will actually go forth and do that! Today's installment, Part I, is a very brief description of card models. As subsequent parts are added, I will edit this post to keep the Table of Contents up-to-date. So, sit back, enjoy the series, and seriously consider taking a trip to the Dark Side of ship modeling! TABLE OF CONTENTS Part I: What is a card model? Part II: Start for FREE! Part III: Shopping for Card Models Part IV: Tools & Other Supplies Part V: Building V108 - The Hull Part VI: Building V108 - The Superstructure Part VII: Building V108 - Armament Part VIII: Building V108 - Miscellaneous Bits

I wasn't even aware they had this kit out. You should do an in-the-box review when it arrives.

That said, let's get this thread back on topic, shall we? If anyone wishes to further pursue the discussion of 3D printing in the hobby, please start up a new thread. Now, back to Chris and his updates!

My vote is for HMS Shannon. She's a Leda-class frigate with historical significance on both sides of the pond (albeit for opposite reasons).

Very sorry to hear of your family's loss, Suzanne. Kindest regards, Chris

I built the Corel Flying Fish. The only kind thing I can say about it is that I finished it, albeit modified (see here). The fittings were deplorable -- a mishmash of off-the-shelf items that often bore little or no resemblance to any real-life structures. I get the sense that with Corel, you get what you pay for, i.e. more expensive kits are better products.

Adam, I think you got the essence of it correct when you spoke of the question of how much as opposed to what is required for a model. Planking techniques for a cutter are the same as for a ship-of-the-line, but the SOL has much more to do. Same thing for masting, rigging, guns, etc. Some of the skill levels mentioned on kit boxes are questionable, to say the least. Model Shipways' Kate Cory, for example, is described on the box as an ideal first model. Excuse me? Kate Cory is square-rigged, coppered, has a ton of deck furniture, and includes four fiddly little whaleboats. In my book, that's a challenge for any modeler, much less a beginner. To me, the main point is, does a kit include enough elements to make success likely, i.e. detailed instructions, low parts count, pre-cut or pre-formed components, minimal tricky elements and such. Based on those criteria, I have always held Midwest Products kits to be as near fool-proof as beginner's kits can be. Fortunately, we live in an age where even more complex models can be tackled by beginners thanks to some manufacturers paying more attention to comprehensive instructions, newer design techniques, and of course, access to info at sites such as MSW. But for anyone considering one of those newer designs, I would still advise along the lines of "less is more", as in "more likely to be completed". Cheers, Chris

Jason, the upgrade kit consists in large measure of bits that were included in the later Pegasus kit. There are a few minor differences between the two kits, one being the manner in which the quarterbadges are constructed, if I remember correctly. It may be some time before I have any updates -- the main reason I'm not building anything at the moment is that it turns out my wife is allergic to many of the paints and adhesives I use. Still working on a solution for this.

Belco et al, The Black Pearl being Disney's intellectual property, any plans or kits of her must be properly licensed. Since the linked plans in a previous post were hosted at a Japanese-language site, MSW staff cannot assess the legitimacy of those plans, thus the link has been removed. Kind regards, Chris

Chris, If you are looking for some more helpful instructions, you will not find them in that particular kit. Caldercraft instructions have grown more comprehensive over the years, but the Endeavour is one of their early releases. You could try one of their newer releases, such as Badger or Pickle. Model Shipway's Syren, designed by our own Chuck Passaro, also has very detailed instructions. On the other hand, interest in your subject goes a long way in overcoming difficulty, so if you have your heart set on Endeavour, the Caldercraft edition is probably the best offered, and there are resources available here to get you through the build, such as the planking tutorial in the Ship Modeler's Database. Regards,

Chuck, if you enter "Fair American" in the search window, you will find four build logs currently in progress. Good luck with your model!

A kit from Russia, or a Russian kit? There are some legitimate Russian kit designs on the market. We had at least one posted on the old site, and it looked very nice. Also some nice kits coming out of Croatia as well.

I advise NEVER to start a model that doesn't appeal to you -- unless you never intend to finish it. Passion for your subject goes a long way in giving impetus to overcoming challenges during the build. Cheers!

I hope your son keeps up with the modeling. I tried to get my son to have a go at it, but it didn't take. We have other shared interests, just not ship building. Oh, well! Oh, and I loved building in 1/700 back in the day.

Robert, your model looks absolutely splendid! It makes a very strong argument in favor of something I wish kit manufacturers would do, namely offer packages that consist of only the hull former set. Your upgrades are a dramatic improvement on the basic kit, and as you said earlier in this thread, had you known about the existence of pre-milled wood, you would have used that for the entire hull. Seems like a simple enough proposition, doesn't it? Cheers!

That's some slick work!