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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Hi, Aur. Unfortunately, Roman still has not updated his website - the link for V108 is still not active. Since the website on the whole, however, is active, we must assume that Roman is still in business. Even though the model is free, it is still his intellectual property, and for me or anyone else to distribute copies of it without the owner's permission would be a copyright infringement. Maybe I'll shoot him an email and ask what his intentions are.
  2. I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here. I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line). The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time. Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point. Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions. It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions. If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions. Same goes for Model Shipways. The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps. They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull. MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder. But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions. Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house. Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions. Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted. It's about economics. If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design. The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers. Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions. Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !
  3. Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar. It looks vaguely repulsive.
  4. Depends entirely on how thick the originals were. If the plans say 3/32, then that is probably the correct scale thickness. Since the kit is also in 3/32" scale, that indicates bulwarks 1 foot thick, which may be about right.on the original.
  5. I have always liked the looks of these boats, and you did a great job on your model. Congrats!
  6. A nice lineup of pre-Dreadnought kits in 1/200 might even tempt me to get back into plastic. Until I saw the price, anyways.
  7. David, there's actually a fair amount of extant material on these ships, both plans and photos. I don't think they get modeled very often, because they are, admittedly, kind of homely.
  8. I have completed five models without any of those tools. Now, if you're thinking about going the scratch-building route, some of them are no doubt handy.
  9. A member of my local built one, but this was years ago. I can only dimly recall that he had some issues with the kit, but he did finish it, and it looked very nice when completed.
  10. Thank you for reading this! I'd like everyone to take a moment and have a glance at the index page for the build logs (kit or scratch, either one). Please notice how pretty much every build log title starts like this: (Name of ship) by (exact username of builder) This is no coincidence! MSW has guidelines for standardized build log titles pinned in each build log section. Those guidelines are intended to make the build logs more easily searchable with our site's search function, but having a standard title format also makes it much easier to tell WHAT is being built and by WHOM for those that choose to browse the index. Trust me, I know from being a member on other forums that such a standardized format makes for a much nicer browsing experience than the hodge-podge of titles I've seen elsewhere. For those of you who have been diligently following the titling guidelines, THANK YOU! You make our moderating duties much easier. Over the last several weeks, though, I have edited approximately 60-80 build log titles to conform them to our guidelines. Some were admittedly very minor edits, and some were edits to titles written long ago before things were streamlined. But many were edits to recent titles that didn't follow the guidelines at all, including three so far today. This isn't just a newbie thing, either - some of these non-standard titles were written by long-tenured members (who should know better, *ahem*). So, before posting your next build log, have a look at the existing titles - there are now lots of examples of how to do it right! Thank you, and model on!
  11. Well, that makes one, then. Seriously, though, if someone likes using the nails, then I would be the last to stop them. More than one way to skin a cat.
  12. If you are using the nails to hold planks while gluing, the best advice is: don't. There are better ways of doing that job.
  13. 48 hours, eh? Well, I for one am impressed.
  14. Have heard of this kit, but that's about all I know of it. It's a solid-hull kit, so it will require a slightly different skill set than a plank-on-bulkhead (POB) kit. My advice is, if it doesn't thrill you, skip it - you will not feel motivated to complete it. OTOH, there is some merit in starting with a simpler kit, especially if you do not have any prior experience with wood. I started by building two beginner kits from Midwest Products (they just dropped this product line this spring), and I don't regret the time spent on those kits. They were very good kits, too. On the other other hand (I guess that would be OTOOH), everyone who builds a POB kit has to tackle a first one sometime, and it's going to be a challenge, to be sure. Having a kit you really, really like goes a long way in the motivation department. Not every POB kit that gets started gets finished, but there are modelers here at MSW who have attempted Syren as their first build and succeeded. You kinda have to decide for yourself how much challenge you feel up to. As for scale, I personally do not find 1/64 difficult to work with, because I am used to working with card models in 1/250. 1/64 is a cakewalk in comparison. Seriously, though, 1/64 is a very doable scale for a beginner. Good luck!
  15. Welcome! Your destroyer model looks great. Each of the kits you listed has merits, but first I would suggest that you do a search on the topic of the LSS practicums. Opinion varies widely on them. Bluenose will, in one sense, be easier than the others, in that it has an easier hull shape to build and a relatively simple rig. Pride of Baltimore shares these features, but includes some square rigging, which will add an extra bit of complexity. LSS does not offer a practicum based on Syren, but what that kit does have is an exceedingly detailed set of instructions, which are, for all intents and purposes, a practicum unto themselves. Plus, the kit's designer, Chuck Passaro, is right here at MSW. Personally, I would avoid Rattlesnake as a first kit, simply because as a three-masted man o' war it will have the most of everything to work on, i.e. masts, guns, rigging. Syren and Fair American both have the man o' war appeal in a two-masted package. Any of those kits will build into a very nice model, but since you said Syren scores well with you on personal appeal, that's what I'd go with. Plus, the prices you quoted are MSRP. Get yourself on Model Shipways' email list and wait for one of their on-line deals. You'll get your dream kit for much less moola. Regards
  16. Gerald, You can add the word 'metal' after a dash, in the same fashion that 'plastic' or 'card' is added to a title.
  17. Jason, have you thought about making them yourself? It's not particularly difficult, especially for a small suit of fore-and-aft sails.
  18. Got some pix, grsjax? I know there were kits that fell out of the Laughing Whale/Bluejacket/Midwest lineup, but I don't think I've heard of that particular one.
  19. JSC models are a mixed bag. My first attempt at a card ship was JSC's 1/400 Mikasa. Bad choice - scale too small, model crudely hand-drawn. Many of their kits are still of the older, hand-drawn variety and not particularly good. I can't speak to the quality of their newer releases. Quality English instructions are still a rarity among Eastern European publishers, so experience is still the best predictor of success with such kits. Starting a build log with pics could help us get you around some of the sticky parts.
  20. "Not that bad"? Greg, at a normal viewing distance, I know this looks totally amazing!
  21. Welcome, Scott. Completing a model like the Wasa, even if it is only the rigging left to do, will be a challenge for a beginner. To begin with, there is quite a bit of archaic language to get a handle on, followed by acquiring a new skill set specific to rigging period ship models. I suggest starting off with reading up on the subject. A good book aimed at beginners is Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. It won't tell you how to rig a Wasa, but it will give you an idea of what you are getting into. Also, check out some of the Wasa build logs here at MSW. They won't all be Billing Boats kits, but the rigging will be similar. You might also want to think about building your own, simpler model to start off with - something you can cut your teeth on without making your beginner mistakes on your opa's model. Lots to think about. Cheers!
  22. I think he already has the kit and is looking for help with the French instructions.
  23. This is a pretty inaccurate generalization. There are many exceptionally nice kits coming out of Europe these days from manufacturers like Victory Models, Caldercraft, Dusek, MariStella, Master Korabel, and others. To be sure, some of the older manufacturers did churn out historically inaccurate kits, and the materials could be a mixed bag, but the newer manufacturers are setting the bar ever higher.
  24. This is why the hobby, on the whole, is taken up by only a Relative Few - it leaves a vast remnant of of the Uninitiated who are still impressed by those of us with pedestrian skills.
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