ccoyle

Lower shrouds done, moving along. I find ratline making to be somewhat relaxing

Next step
Micro ironing
And 12 little holes

Back to the build. I've decided that I will attempt BEs steering modification. I've altered the keel slightly and planked the floor and the fish hatch. I used lime planking stained with a dark walnut water based stain. Then a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer, sanded with fine 600 grade paper and two coats of water based satin varnish.
 
I was intending to plank the deck, but the more I look at the later etched deck supplied the more I like it. This is effectively my first proper foray into this absorbing hobby and it's important for me to actually finish the model to an acceptable standard, so I don't want to make life harder than it needs to be.

Yep, and I'm sure that the process produces the same issues with tolerance when card is the medium. Happily, as I have written about elsewhere, the nature of card stock, i.e. multiple layers of paper fiber, makes it relatively easy to remove material when necessary.
 
 
I love interwar biplanes and sport planes. A designer could spend a lifetime solely designing kits of all the aircraft that used the Gipsy series of engines. I have a Stampe-Vertongen SV.4 in my stash and briefly toyed with the idea of doing another 2-for-1 build featuring it and the DH.82.
 
Cheers!

Construction begins with cockpit framing. One lesson I've learned over the years (and have had regularly, sometimes painfully, reinforced) is that laser-cut frames are not a cure-all -- one can't simply throw them together and expect everything to turn out right. In this instance (as often happens), it proved necessary to trim away most of the plain card structural parts, leaving only the colored portions to laminate onto the laser-cut bits, in order to maintain the correct thickness of the finished parts. Even then, some of the tabs needed to be thinned by having a layer of paper fibers cut away, so that the tabs would fit easily into their slots.
 
Before gluing in the bulkheads, I opted to add the optional doubling parts to create more 3D-looking control levers -- an extra 11 parts.
 

A little side-Project

 

 
Although i think the figures turned out a bit too tall 
 
(No, i do not plan to use that Cannon on the model - although it does look quite good but i wouldnt be able to paint it like it is now)

Construction begins with cockpit framing. One lesson I've learned over the years (and have had regularly, sometimes painfully, reinforced) is that laser-cut frames are not a cure-all -- one can't simply throw them together and expect everything to turn out right. In this instance (as often happens), it proved necessary to trim away most of the plain card structural parts, leaving only the colored portions to laminate onto the laser-cut bits, in order to maintain the correct thickness of the finished parts. Even then, some of the tabs needed to be thinned by having a layer of paper fibers cut away, so that the tabs would fit easily into their slots.
 
Before gluing in the bulkheads, I opted to add the optional doubling parts to create more 3D-looking control levers -- an extra 11 parts.
 

Finally got most of the details onto the hull and will spray gloss clear tonight in preparation for the weathering, etc. process.  I have a few more things to add like a few more AA guns and the small boats, but I wanted to make sure I had access to areas for adding washes and other treatments.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I used some other sets to get a little more detail to the kit.  FiveStar sells resin life buoys which are nice because they are 3D and don't have to be folded like PE buoys, and you can paint them right off the plug.  The kit searchlight was ok, but I ended up using a FineMolds 90cm searchlight which I thought gave better detail:
 

 
 
Here are the torpedos and their carriages - great little details from the Infini upgrade set:
 

 
Small boats - lots of little details from Infini, including the wood bottoms for the cutters:
 

 
The resource books I posted at the beginning of the log showed a small lantern hanging from the pole at the bow.  The FineMolds set with the searchlight included small lanterns, so after trimming to size, I added it to the bow.  Nice little touch I think:
 

 
After the weathering, I'll put together the seascape, add the rigging and flags, and add figures to the model.  I've left a few little details here and there for added interest, including an open torpedo hatch, a hatch at the top of one of the other torpedo launchers, an open ammo box, etc.  
 
Thanks for looking in!

Yep, and I'm sure that the process produces the same issues with tolerance when card is the medium. Happily, as I have written about elsewhere, the nature of card stock, i.e. multiple layers of paper fiber, makes it relatively easy to remove material when necessary.
 
 
I love interwar biplanes and sport planes. A designer could spend a lifetime solely designing kits of all the aircraft that used the Gipsy series of engines. I have a Stampe-Vertongen SV.4 in my stash and briefly toyed with the idea of doing another 2-for-1 build featuring it and the DH.82.
 
Cheers!

Yep, and I'm sure that the process produces the same issues with tolerance when card is the medium. Happily, as I have written about elsewhere, the nature of card stock, i.e. multiple layers of paper fiber, makes it relatively easy to remove material when necessary.
 
 
I love interwar biplanes and sport planes. A designer could spend a lifetime solely designing kits of all the aircraft that used the Gipsy series of engines. I have a Stampe-Vertongen SV.4 in my stash and briefly toyed with the idea of doing another 2-for-1 build featuring it and the DH.82.
 
Cheers!

I like the subject choices!

After a week of doing "other things" I was able to shoot a coat of white on the hull.
 

Just had a little delivery from our friends at Amazon. Also had some stripwood delivered from Cornwall Model Biats, I only ordered this yesterday afternoon.  Amazing service.

As with Nisha, the inner bulwarks are engraved with timberhead positions, with the first being 'A'. The pre-cut timberheads just need cleaning up and the bottom bevelled accordingly.


 
 
More fitting out as the stern 'bench' is fitted. 

 
 
Where timberheads are fitted with a rail, they are adjoined with a temporary beam which makes sure the spacings are correct for these. Once in place and dry, the beam can be snipped away.

 
 
A sanding stick makes short work of neatening up the tops of the bulwarks, levelling them in relation to each other.

 
 
Before the gunwales are fitted, the model is masked and the upper bulwarks airbrushed in green.

 
 
Gunwales now fitted.

 
 
Before we splash some real colour onto the hull, a waterline is first added which runs along the top line of the white boot.

 
 
Prep is king here as the hull is filled and sanded. Any imperfections are fixed. A coat of primer is added and it that shows anything further, that is also fixed until I'm happy with the result. This could take all day to do but it's worth the effort.

 
After a final coat of white, 3mm flexible tape is added along the edge of the masking and the hull then sprayed in red oxide. When even and dry, all tape is removed.


 
 
🐟 enter here ➡️


 
 
Stairway to heaven.


 
 
And a nice companionway to gimme shelter.


 
 
Main sheet housing assembly.

Nisha has a number of brass and 3D printed parts. These are first primed and then airbrushed in red. I use this specific colour as I didn't want anything too bright. RLM23 is a WW2 German Luftwaffe colour.

 
The wonderfully named 'dandy wink' is now built and fitted.

 
More deck hardware...


 
 
A steam winch also finds a home on Nisha. All parts are primed with Tamiya Fine Surface primer before airbrushing. 





 
 
A little bit of metalwork is required for the chimneys.





 
 
Yes, this one has some shrouds and rats! Very simple stuff though and it'll take almost no time. 
\
 
That's it until next time! 

I can't recall the name part at the moment so always call it the 'bench'. 
This is now fitted into the stern, and it sits in the notches in stern timbers and on the lower timberheads. An engraved line shows the absolute position.

 

 
 
I use a rigid sanding stick to draw across the bulwarks to make sure they are level to each other. A good surface is needed here for the gunwales which are fitted after painting the outside bulwark in black. The lower rail, now fitted, is in white.


 
 
A waterline mark is now added to coincide with the to top of the white book line. The hull is then masked from that line, upwards. Filler is applied to the exposed area and then sanded. White primer is also now sprayed and any further imperfections filled and sanded out. This is a tedious task that will take a good day or so to get right, but it's important it's done if you want the lower hull to look neat. 


 
 
After painting a finish coat of white, a 3mm flexible tape line is run around the edge of the current masking, and then the hull is sprayed red. When dry, all tape is removed.


 
 
Fishers need hatches. These are made and then fitted.


 
 
Same with ladders. 

 
 
A jig is provided to build the curved-roof companionway. Here you see the assembly still sat on the jig, with the curved roof part clamped at rear with glue, before curving over the sides.

I have found that Aleen's Clear Gel Tacky Glue has a longer set time than regular white Tacky Glue. This comes in handy when you need to glue surfaces that need to be adjusted as you work. I used it on the cowling and spinner on my recent Ki-43 build; each is made up of concentric rings that need to be nudged around a bit as the glue sets. White glue sets too fast for this, and CA is too messy for the job. With the Gel Clear, I achieved some of the nicest ring structures I have yet done.
 

Yep, and I'm sure that the process produces the same issues with tolerance when card is the medium. Happily, as I have written about elsewhere, the nature of card stock, i.e. multiple layers of paper fiber, makes it relatively easy to remove material when necessary.
 
 
I love interwar biplanes and sport planes. A designer could spend a lifetime solely designing kits of all the aircraft that used the Gipsy series of engines. I have a Stampe-Vertongen SV.4 in my stash and briefly toyed with the idea of doing another 2-for-1 build featuring it and the DH.82.
 
Cheers!

The rest of the model went according to the original cad model and fit fine the first time. Simple rigging and some 3D printed parts like the original.

Thought I would share the prototype build of a 1912 West Coast work boat.  In 1912-1915 she was owned by Clarence Wakeley, Vancouver BC. In 1918-1921 she was owned by Dolly Varden Shipping Co. Ltd., Victoria BC, and used to supply the Dolly Varden mine and railway. In 1926-1930 she was owned by Walter C. Hanson, Butedale BC. On July 10, 1930 she was destroyed by fire in Deep Cover, on the North Arm in Burrard Inlet, BC, Canada.
 

 
This is a waterline kit made from Basswood, Polybak, and some 3D printed details. I will probably get around to releasing this as a kit and possibly another version in 1/4" scale (1:48)
 
 

Very interesting build project. I love what you are doing with it.
 
Slot and tab construction. While I love it and use it quite often in our own kits, I have come to learn that moisture levels, "nominal milled thickness" and precision fit, can all work against each other.  For example we use a lot of 1/32 and 1/16 basswood sheet which varies in thickness from the mill by as much as 1/64 or more. While that does not seem like a lot for wood, it is a lot when it comes to a precise laser cut slot!
 
Looks like you are overcoming these minor roadblocks though.  
 
Happy Modeling and very much enjoying this thread so far.
 
BTW, the Tiger Moth is one of my top 3 favorite aircraft of all time! My uncle was an instructor in the RCAF and spent a lot if time around them. I have most of an instrument set, compass, and propeller that I covet!

For the last several months I have been planning and working on small details on deck furniture, and puzzling over how the rigging was belayed on deck. Very few books go into detail about schooner rigging, and those that do give good details how the rigging is arranged aloft and then say the lines "go to the deck." That isn't a lot of help!! The Mantua plans show only the standing rigging and say nothing of the running rigging. There are not nearly enough belaying points (pin rails, ring bolts, cleats, etc.) to handle the running rigging.
 
I have finally come up with a rigging plan and belaying plan that I intend to use on the model. First the full rigging illustration:
 

 
 
This is a bit different from my earlier plan. Instead of a spar gaff topsail on the fore mast I am using a main top staysail. And I am still considering adding a traveller to the jib boom for the flying jib rigging.
 
Here is the belaying plan:
 

 
 
This plan was made a bit more complicated by the pivot gun that fires above the bulwarks. Several lines might optimally be located along the bulwark between the middle and aft cannons, but these would be blown away by the pivot gun. Several belaying point shuffles were necessary to get everything tied down without fouling the lines. Of course this is preliminary. When I start rigging the model I may have to rearrange some of the lines to avoid tangling and chafing the lines.
 
I have also attached a PDF file listing all the lines (standing and running), their termination points and lengths (dimensions are in inches). Part of this exercise was to calculate the lengths of the lines so I know what to order. There are a little over 200 lines totaling about 182 feet (55.47 meters), and that doesn't count coils of rope at the belaying points, or the cannon rigging.
Revenue Cutter Rigging Terminations.pdf

In case I forgot to mention in my previous posts, I am following David Antscherl's guide for planking below the hull which I got from http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Tips.html:
 
Planking_primer.pdf
 
I finished lining out the hull with some black thread, dividing it into three bands (I chose three since I calculated I will need 33 planks across the hull, which divides nicely by 3).
 
Here are a bunch of photos showing different angles of hull. Please let me know if you guys see any issue with threads not flowing nicely, it will be much easier to fix the threads now than after when I start planking 😅














I will probably wait for a bit to work up the nerve to start the planking process.... Very very nervous on how it will turn out!

After many hours, I finally finished treenailing the planks! Well, I will need to do one more round for the channel wales, but right now majority of the treenailing is done. 
 
After completing one side, I learnt it is better to randomize treenailing the last bit of the bamboo skewer so the transition between two bamboo skewers is not very apparent. Even though the colors of the skewers match, the cross-section appearance is slightly different. I hope once I apply the Tung oil finish, the transitions between the skewers do not show much. 
 
Here are some snapshots I took of the WIP:


Applying a bit of water shows how they may look after applying the Tung oil. Here you can see the clear divisional line where I began using a new bamboo strip (between the 2nd vs 3rd columns of where I applied the water). Lesson learnt! Next time I will be sure to randomize the the treenails at the transition area. I did that for the portside area and I can not see any clear transition lines.

After treenailing, I sanded all the planks with medium then fine sandpaper. Here is how she looks right now:






I am now thinking of starting to plank the lower hull area. I bought some 1/16" basswood sheets so I can cut the planks to shape instead of edge-bending. I may also start installing the channel wales but let's see!

Thank you, Moonbug 😀
 
Both sides of the hull and now drilled and ready to be treenailed:




And so it begins 😁